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Old 11-15-2011, 04:27 PM   #736
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such a realistic F1 car it even breaks just like the real ones!
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:39 PM   #737
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NEVER FEAR , bertrandsv87 is here !!! I got my fgx last week , and all I can say is WOW !!! You get your money's worth with this kit :
#1 : front adjustable caster , reactive caster
#2 : adjustable roll center front and rear
#3 : rear toe, camber, droop , etc...
#4 : ball diff or gear diff
#5 : good gear choices with optional gearset

All that for $125 . The front arms are kind of flexy, and have a different angle than the tamiya F1 cars, which might make them more prone to breakage, but driver error can't be ignored . As for rear spring options, racers can use : hpi #87320, or integy T3461 spring kits and test to see what works best. The hpi springs are a little long at 28mm, but that will make them stiff... Best tires are Shimizu soft and grooved, and you can add thick grease to the front suspension rod to create a damper feel that will stop the wheel hop ! Finally, no long can motors ....
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:46 PM   #738
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Originally Posted by MrChodes View Post
FGXs are taking over our local track.
1 obvious problem everyone is aware of:

Ah yes, yellow F1 cars: the scurge of the ozite.

I hope to have my FGX next week and breaking frontends soon after.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:43 PM   #739
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I have been in contact with 3 Racing concerning the fragile front arms and the rear of the upper deck interfering with motor adjustability. They have replied to thank me and inform me that they are aware of the problems and are working on them. I think we will soon see optional stronger front arms and a change to the upper deck to accomodate the motor better.

I also suggested that they sell a "pro" version of the FGX with all of the option parts and graphite upper and lower chassis. I believe they are looking into that as well. Time will tell.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:46 PM   #740
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FGXs are taking over our local track.
1 obvious problem everyone is aware of:

If that is the result of the crash I am thinking of it was a high speed get off at the end of the straight. It is a miracle the driver wasn't killed
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:34 PM   #741
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Putting links on mine til they get a fix.
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:41 PM   #742
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Originally Posted by ace955 View Post
If that is the result of the crash I am thinking of it was a high speed get off at the end of the straight. It is a miracle the driver wasn't killed
HAHAHAHA

Fantastic pics Mr Chodes

Great night running the beastie, and finally no breakages
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:26 PM   #743
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Default Broken Front Arm

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Originally Posted by texastc View Post
Ah yes, yellow F1 cars: the scurge of the ozite.

I hope to have my FGX next week and breaking frontends soon after.
Mine broke on the first run! I was letting another racer try it out and after it broke I had him keep running...he lowered his lap time by another second, with the front wheel pointing basically where it wanted to!

Here is a pic of my quick fix. Two 1/16"dia. carbon fiber rods CA'ed to the bottom of therear link of the upper arm. Then wrapped with kevlar thread and coated with more CA. Heat shrink to cover it all up.

Don't know how much it will help but I think it's in the right direction...until something else breaks, at least!

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3 racing new F1-aarm-repair1.jpg  
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:25 PM   #744
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Originally Posted by aarcobra View Post
Mine broke on the first run! I was letting another racer try it out and after it broke I had him keep running...he lowered his lap time by another second, with the front wheel pointing basically where it wanted to!

Here is a pic of my quick fix. Two 1/16"dia. carbon fiber rods CA'ed to the bottom of therear link of the upper arm. Then wrapped with kevlar thread and coated with more CA. Heat shrink to cover it all up.

Don't know how much it will help but I think it's in the right direction...until something else breaks, at least!

Ned
Yeah, my buddies busted first day too. Doesn't take too much of a hit to break. He fixed it with cf rod, but no kevlar. It held up for awhile, but eventually got so brittle that it had to go. He is running links at the moment.
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:45 PM   #745
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One cheap solution is to shave all your axles, and put some CA on the side walls of your tires so they will glide instead of sticking to the walls..
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:19 AM   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aarcobra View Post
Mine broke on the first run! I was letting another racer try it out and after it broke I had him keep running...he lowered his lap time by another second, with the front wheel pointing basically where it wanted to!

Here is a pic of my quick fix. Two 1/16"dia. carbon fiber rods CA'ed to the bottom of therear link of the upper arm. Then wrapped with kevlar thread and coated with more CA. Heat shrink to cover it all up.

Don't know how much it will help but I think it's in the right direction...until something else breaks, at least!

Ned
I'm having a flash back to when I saw a pan car hit the track for the first time and the front arm broke on it. I think I recall someone being very upset and ready to throw the pile of junk in the garbage.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:59 AM   #747
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I'm having a flash back to when I saw a pan car hit the track for the first time and the front arm broke on it. I think I recall someone being very upset and ready to throw the pile of junk in the garbage.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:11 AM   #748
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Question. I'm currently running a silver can with stock gears and no mods to the chassis. Biggest pinion I have that will fit is 22t. Like many others, I'm having the problem of the motor bumping against the battery door post. Was going to shave the top deck a little but it seems this will give me maybe about 1 mm more room which isn't enough to be able to put a bigger pinion on. So I ordered the gear kit, that I should receive today or tomorrow, and plan to use the 35t spur. Does anyone know what will be the biggest pinion I could use with this? Another question is one I asked before but found two different answers. How many teeth are on the stock spur? The reply I got back was 41t but then a few posts later I saw someone saying it is 40t.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:30 AM   #749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glinx111 View Post
Question. I'm currently running a silver can with stock gears and no mods to the chassis. Biggest pinion I have that will fit is 22t. Like many others, I'm having the problem of the motor bumping against the battery door post. Was going to shave the top deck a little but it seems this will give me maybe about 1 mm more room which isn't enough to be able to put a bigger pinion on. So I ordered the gear kit, that I should receive today or tomorrow, and plan to use the 35t spur. Does anyone know what will be the biggest pinion I could use with this? Another question is one I asked before but found two different answers. How many teeth are on the stock spur? The reply I got back was 41t but then a few posts later I saw someone saying it is 40t.
I completely removed that post to run silvercan, it worked fine. That was the last race of the year so sometime over the winter I'm going to drill a new hole in the chassis to mount that post about 5mm forward and completely out of the way.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:47 AM   #750
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I completely removed that post to run silvercan, it worked fine. That was the last race of the year so sometime over the winter I'm going to drill a new hole in the chassis to mount that post about 5mm forward and completely out of the way.
If you removed the post, then what held your battery in?
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