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Old 10-23-2014, 08:43 AM   #4651
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi guys,

I struggle to make the car turn (indoor carpet track)...

My set-up:

Rear:
- 1 toe in
- 2 camber
- rear shocks: AE RC18T rear shocks with 2000cst + Tamiya F201 Gold springs
- gear diff with 2000 cst
- droop: 7 or 8
- ride height: 6mm
- Ride R1 tyres fully sauced with LRP Carpet Top Grip 3

Front:
- 1.5 toe out
- 2 camber
- front shocks: AE RC18T front shocks with 1000cst + 3acing kit springs (softer)
- droop: 9mm
- ride height: 5mm
- Exotek FGX Front Hub (rear (3d) hole for steering rod)
- Ride R1 tyres

Electronics:
- Team Orion VST2 17.5t
- Team Orion R10 Pro (blinky mod), in the front
- IP 4600 shorty pack in the rear of the car
- GM Bls servo

Does someone have a good set-up for capret track (low/mid grip)?
Thanks in advance,
G-rem
Here is the setup from Mark Day from Timezone II. It's a high traction carpet track, but I used this setup on a low grip carpet track with success.

Front:
0561 Shimizu soft tires
Silver optional front king pin springs
king pin turned upside down no middle e-clip single 1 mil shim under steering block 5.0mm ride height
1 degree neg camber
4 deeg Castor (using link susp)
.05 toe out
Sauce 1/2 inside tire

Rear:
565 Shimizu soft tires
5.5mm ride height
2mm droop over ride height
2 hole piston with 65wt
2degree neg camber
1degree rear toe
Sauce full tire
1000CST diff lube
1.3mm sway bar

I always ran my shorty pack in the forward position in my FGX. I also always sauced full fronts. On high grip, fully sauced, the car could traction roll if you snapped it into a corner too quickly. On low grip, fully sauced, it never traction rolled once. Just gobs of delicious steering to play with
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:21 AM   #4652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi guys,

I struggle to make the car turn (indoor carpet track)...

My set-up:

Rear:
- 1 toe in
- 2 camber
- rear shocks: AE RC18T rear shocks with 2000cst + Tamiya F201 Gold springs
- gear diff with 2000 cst
- droop: 7 or 8
- ride height: 6mm
- Ride R1 tyres fully sauced with LRP Carpet Top Grip 3

Front:
- 1.5 toe out
- 2 camber
- front shocks: AE RC18T front shocks with 1000cst + 3acing kit springs (softer)
- droop: 9mm
- ride height: 5mm
- Exotek FGX Front Hub (rear (3d) hole for steering rod)
- Ride R1 tyres

Electronics:
- Team Orion VST2 17.5t
- Team Orion R10 Pro (blinky mod), in the front
- IP 4600 shorty pack in the rear of the car
- GM Bls servo

Does someone have a good set-up for capret track (low/mid grip)?
Thanks in advance,
G-rem
Setup looks very good. Try adding weight to the front or shifting more weight forward.
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:22 AM   #4653
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Hey everyone. I have mine basically bone stock. (going to keep it that way) and the front end is hopping around. I was using a fill sized pack but it's only 200g

I shimmed out the slop in the front suspension with about .5mm droop on the front.


ANy Idea's how to tame that?
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:56 AM   #4654
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Thanks Angrymelon and Liljohn, I will try next time

About weight forward, last year I tried the forward position for the battery but car was a bit lazy in tight corners. A friend of mine ran his FGX with the battery rearward and with more weight transfert, his car had plenty of steering...
And I recently saw more weight rearward allows more weight transfer so more steering...

@angrymelon: what do you mean by "2mm droop over ride height in the rear"?

Also, when do I have to use 1000cst gear diff instead of 2000cst? What are basically the effects of a less viscous diff oil?

Cheers,
G-rem
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:01 AM   #4655
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I'd give AngryMelon's setup a try - he was giving Tamiya, VBC, and Speed Passion cars hell with it at our track. If you're running a technical layout, the FGX will likely be as fast or faster through the infield than the pan cars given drivers of similar skill level.
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:07 AM   #4656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sorcerer001 View Post
I'd give AngryMelon's setup a try - he was giving Tamiya, VBC, and Speed Passion cars hell with it at our track. If you're running a technical layout, the FGX will likely be as fast or faster through the infield than the pan cars given drivers of similar skill level.
Noted! The only problem is we are supposed to use Ride R1 tyres and I was told they are not as good as Pit tyres on carpet track...
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:42 AM   #4657
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All of this talk about FHX running on a tight track has me thinking about breaking mine out again.
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:47 AM   #4658
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Yeah the tires will likely make the biggest impact. And 2mm over ride height would effectively be 7.5mm in Mark's setup. I've actually preferred slightly more droop depending on surface smoothness.

Regarding the battery position, I would just try it out without making any other setup changes. It hopefully is an easy switch, and can give you an idea of how it effects handling.
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:09 AM   #4659
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Thanks dude
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Old 10-26-2014, 03:37 AM   #4660
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FGX 2015

We've heard from 3Racing that they are working on the design of an updated FGX - the Sakura FGX 2015. Early indications are for a March release but it's probably too early for them to be certain.

At RC Formula1 we love the FGX and have come up with this list of things we'd like 3Racing to retain and some other things we'd like them to review. What do you think of our list? Please post feedback and we'll collate the ideas and send the ones that appear to have popular support to 3Racing. We'd like to do this in one weeks time but it depends on how spirited the discussion is

Things we'd like to see retained:

1. current low price
2. double wishbone front suspension option
3. independent rear suspension with oil filled shocks
4. metric hex screws
5. clear access to the end bell of the motor so that timing can be adjusted without removing the motor

Things we'd like 3Racing to review and improve where practical:

1. Currently when positioning the motor as far forward on the stock motor mount as possible it hits the left hand post that supports the upper deck. This means that, in our testing, the largest pinion that will fit is a 29t (when using the optional 35t spur gear) giving a final drive ratio around 3.3. We modified our test FGX by drilling new holes in the upper and lower deck for this post and moved it forward about 9mm to allow larger pinions to be used. We would like to see pinions up to 39t fit without modifying the chassis or motor mount (when using the 35t spur).

2. We really like that you've used metric hex screws but they appear to strip more easily than we would like.

3. We would like to see most modern hard case 2S lipo batteries fit without needing to modify anything eg; the servo arm location. We would also like to see a rear battery stop to prevent the battery from rubbing on the motor.

4. That you need to remove the rear wing to access the diff and that the two vertical screws that hold the wing / diff housing can't be squarely accessed with a hex driver because they are overshadowed by the wing.

5. On a minor note we would like to see the internal gear ratio specified in the manual.

One that we're on the fence about:

- should the wheel hex size be changed from 12mm to 14mm so that Tamiya wheels will fit (or perhaps offer a 14mm hex as an option)?


About RC Formula1 - for those of you who haven't heard of our website www.rcformula1.com.au we are dedicated to promoting RC F1 racing and provide in depth news, tech tips and articles. In terms of readership we are the most popular RC F1 website in the world. The FGX is the 2nd most read about chassis on our site (after the Tamiya F104 V2) and we have articles on all popular, and many not so popular, F1 kits.
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:30 AM   #4661
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What a super good new

Here is my list:
-a belt drive transmission and slower internal ratio (between 1.7 and 2.0; must use a 34-35 diff pulley, see my Excel sheets below)
-keep the rear dampers like the current layout (maybe some update for a better access or to suit the new transmission)
-double wishbone front suspension with real damper (like my conversion), not friction ones + adjustable front arms (like the Exotek ones)
-an updated body that will fit the new front suspension and that looks a bit more realistic (2012-2013 F1 cars)
-a carbon chassis + upper deck like the Exotek one
-regarding the current double wishbone front suspension, there are some little inserts you have to put to set up the car's width and they are a bit fragile: they easily break when you screw them too much and when you crash...
-a revised aluminium steering system (smaller to have more space for the electronic installation and that offers more steering angle)
-I think it will be a great thing to allow drivers to use Tamiya front and rear wheels as they seem to be the current reference (problem: all the rear suspension has to be revised...).
-better access for the diff is a good thing
-low price doesn't have to be a selection criteria as other manufacturers are far expensive that 3R...by increasing the price, 3R could offer a full carbon car with some really nice stuff...

Please, feel free to add the pictures of my converted FGX to give them some idea when you'll send our list, here is the link: https://drive.google.com/folderview?...nM&usp=sharing

I can't wait to see how they will update this car, it has to keep is title of "realistic queen", but if they could improve it for more performance, it will be a beast

Thanks for picking all the idea to send it to them,
Best regards,
G-rem
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:10 AM   #4662
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Here is my list:
* 48p gears all over, no more big tooth gears...
* better gear ratio: 1.8- 2.0....
* better top deck, and better esc mounting system....
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:46 AM   #4663
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Default FGX V2 ideas

RCFormula1, great initiative, I hope 3Racing will pay attention to these comments, I think the FGX has the potential to be the top RC F1 chassis if a couple of things are done to improve it.

-Belt drive transmission (prop shaft to diff) a must, the current transmission is noisy, has a lot of friction and it can strip easily with powerful brushless motors.
-Ball or roller differential, all metal ideally
-Double wishbone front suspension with oil filled shocks
-Fully adjustable front arms with turnbuckles on the upper links
-Metric hex screws for sure but better quality
-Improve steering system for more angle so we can wrap around hair pins
-Modular rear wing so we can access the diff without taking everything apart
-Top and bottom graphite chassis
-Improve motor mount system so we can chose different pinion/spur combos to adapt the car to the track conditions or riding style.
-Consider a better ESC mounting system
-Compatibility with Tamiya wheels so we have more choice
I would be willing to pay more for a car that has these features. The original FGX is cheap and made it very appealing but when you consider all the mods you have to do on it, it is actually a very expensive car!
3Racing has the opportunity to put this car to the top, let's hope they consider our comments!
Thanks,
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Old 10-27-2014, 12:25 PM   #4664
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So the current version should have a price reduction soon? (Hint,Hint)
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Old 10-27-2014, 12:50 PM   #4665
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Belt drive, retrofit to existing lower plate or use with new lower plate. I've always thought there should be a upgrade path so cars don't end up on shelves for no good reason. I really don't want to dump my McKune chassis.
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