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Old 10-20-2013, 12:41 PM   #4471
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(sorry for my poor english)

You can forget the SP Reventon Pro, it's far too big for such a tight place like a FGX. I have personally the Orion R10 Pro and I'm pretty happy with it
Tekin is also good but you need all the time your laptop to set it up. HW and Orion have a program that can be use without it...

BTW, I had my first race with my Exotek EFX today, run on carpet and what I can say it's that it seems I'll have a lot of work on it to make it run like a direct drive car! God, it's just super noisy and by far too slow in comparison with a Serpent F110...and also a little too heavy...

But, I haven't received all my stuff to run properly (Orion VST 17.5 motor, IP shorties,...). Today I ran with a Trackstar motor and normal batteries (Thunder Power 6000 65C) with an Orion Vortex R10 Pro in blinky mode and Ride R1 tyres. At the end of the day, the car was better but for sure perfectible.

So, here are the negative points I noticed all day long:

-It's impossible to put a more than 28 teeth motor pinion (48p) when you use the optionnal motor mount that comes with the alloy bulkheads. If you try to put a bigger one, it will scratch on the motor mount. So, even with the otionnal fast gears set, I had a lack of top spped...it seems that I'll have to use the original motor mount or I'll have to convert the transmission with the belt drive one...

Does someone has an idea of the original gear ratio of the FGX? It appears nowhere in the manual...

-when you use the optional front upper arms from Exotek with the IFS system, it's almost impossible to put more than 2 of negative camber while having a decent caster angle...the arms are almost against the front basculors and avoid the suspension working freely.

So how to you do to set-up the caster when using the Exotek upper arms? What's the solution to make them not in contact with the basculors of the IFS?

-...

How do you do to make the car more directive? By playing with the anti-roll bars? I have the 1.4mm one in the rear and the 1.2mm one ine the front, 2000cst oil in the gear diff, 1000 in the rear shocks and stock springs. And also the optionnal 2 caster alloy part that adds 35g to the front and the brass wheight below the front wing.

If anybody has carpet set-up for the car, I'll take it ;-)

I have to say that I liked playing with this F1 and I can"t wiat to retry it

Thanks a lot for all your help and advices,
Best regards,
G-rem
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:21 PM   #4472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spring71 View Post
Another Belt drive conversion from Mark Barden.









Can someone tell me which bulkheads were used to fix the central shaft that supports the transmission? And which axle?

Thanks for help,
G-rem
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:25 PM   #4473
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Not sure but I believe these were "Home Made" but not entirely sure.
There were others that have done a belt mod who have used D3 baulkheads I believe.

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Old 10-21-2013, 01:48 PM   #4474
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G-rem ; I cut off the front section of the bulk head where the layshaft was mounted . then used hotbodies cycclone tc layshaft mount . for the gearing I used 3 racing alum. diff with 39 tamiya diff gear. I used a 17 pully for layshaft gear .I also moved the motor mount foward for more gearing options .,. rear bulk head is stock I just cut it for this mod ... as far as your gearing problem with the oppitional motor mount I had to grind all the material (lower mounting hole ) needed to get more gear on it ..with fast gear set .you can also use d3 bulk heads ..
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:30 PM   #4475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb racer View Post
G-rem ; I cut off the front section of the bulk head where the layshaft was mounted . then used hotbodies cycclone tc layshaft mount . for the gearing I used 3 racing alum. diff with 39 tamiya diff gear. I used a 17 pully for layshaft gear .I also moved the motor mount foward for more gearing options .,. rear bulk head is stock I just cut it for this mod ... as far as your gearing problem with the oppitional motor mount I had to grind all the material (lower mounting hole ) needed to get more gear on it ..with fast gear set .you can also use d3 bulk heads ..
YES! That's exactly what I tought, thanks a lot for these details. I was also planning to cut the front section of the bulk

Today I was looking to begin the conversion, I'd like to make a mix of all the good things I've seen in this thread (Charles Lightfood, TQ Racing and yours). Thanks men for sharing!

What gear box shaft are you using with this conversion? The Sakura D3 one? You also said I can use the sakura D3 bulk heads, but for what exactly? Can you develop a little more that point, please?
Can you also post more detailed pictures of your belt drive conversion, I think a lot of us are interested in it ;-)

Once again, a big thanks for your explanations,
Best regards,
(super happy) G-rem
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:43 PM   #4476
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This is interesting.
If any of you guys want shafts or parts made for this type of mod let me know.

I make custom parts for racers from 7075 Aluminum and grade 5 titanium.
On this car we need as much weight savings as possible ..... where better then on the drive train!

Regards
BM
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:59 PM   #4477
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G-rem : the drive train in my car is extremly free and everything in it is light weight , the belt has near to no drag with motor out of the car and with weight of motor ... I did use some d3 parts for this conversion : d3 layshaft . spur gear adaptor , 138 low friction belt, alum. 17 tooth pully ..
3 racing alum rear bulk head cover ( I cut the center out ) I also made a carbon mount for the camber links and added a hotbodies steering rack piece for the center shaft over the bulkhead ... there are some pt#'s back a few pages 296 post 4440 on SEAN,s post that you can see ..

Theratriks : I looked back and saw my car in the video .. thanks for bringing back the memories .... I used associated rc18 shock bodies in the rear with the 3 racing shock shafts and in the front used rc18 front shocks with the rear shafts ... car was very good ... I saw Sean,s fgx at TQ . and he got me to work on my car again ....Back then it had all the gears in it . now its a belt drive ..
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Last edited by mb racer; 10-21-2013 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:44 PM   #4478
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Excellent, I'll start the mod today
Once again, thank you for all the details, it will help ;-)

G-rem
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Old 10-22-2013, 12:52 AM   #4479
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I raced my belt drive FGX last Saturday, UF1 final race at TQ.

3rd in Qualifying, 2nd in all 3 Mains, overall 1st place in points.

No bad for FGX we had 22 F1s, only one FGX.

The car ran smoother, faster and cooler.... way better than stock gear transmission. Still it's heavier than other direct drive F1s....

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 10-22-2013, 01:23 AM   #4480
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Great
Is that the belt conversion you posted some pages before (topic also on TQ Racing website)?
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:37 AM   #4481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spring71 View Post
I raced my belt drive FGX last Saturday, UF1 final race at TQ.

3rd in Qualifying, 2nd in all 3 Mains, overall 1st place in points.

No bad for FGX we had 22 F1s, only one FGX.

The car ran smoother, faster and cooler.... way better than stock gear transmission. Still it's heavier than other direct drive F1s....

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Man, I just noticed how good your car turns
Can you tell us how you make turn like that? Maybe you could post your set-up? ;-)
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:21 PM   #4482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Man, I just noticed how good your car turns
Can you tell us how you make turn like that? Maybe you could post your set-up? ;-)
Click the link below for more detailed setup.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/rc_tools/m...ew.asp?s_id=34

Front Tire: PS-0566 Soft front with Shimizu Soft insert

Rear Tire: PS-0568 Soft Rear

Ride Height
Front: 4.0mm
Rear: 4.5mm

Toe
Front: 1deg toe out
Rear: 0 toe

Camber
Front: -3
Rear: -1

Caster : 4deg front

Shock
Front: 1,000 oil, 2 hole piston, kit rear spring (I'm using rear shock instead of tube shock from FGX-332)
Rear: 5,000 oil, 1 hole piston, stiffest spring from FGX-303

Anti-Roll bar
Front: none
Rear: Stiffest bar from FGX-304

Diff : 2,000 diff oil

Tire Souce
Front: Half
Rear: Full
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:36 AM   #4483
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Thanks a lot for your set-up sheet, it will help

Just a few questions about it:

-How do you set up the ride height? Do you set it up with the "droop" screws that sit in the front and rear arms?

-You said "Caster: 4deg front". Does that means your front hub are like that: \
(I mean plunging formward)?

Thanks again for your help,
G-rem
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:58 PM   #4484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Thanks a lot for your set-up sheet, it will help

Just a few questions about it:

-How do you set up the ride height? Do you set it up with the "droop" screws that sit in the front and rear arms?

-You said "Caster: 4deg front". Does that means your front hub are like that: \
(I mean plunging formward)?

Thanks again for your help,
G-rem
I adjust the ride height using shock dial, droop screws for droop....

<--front "/" rear -->

Thanks.
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Old 10-23-2013, 01:27 PM   #4485
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Ow, okay, it's pretty unusual to have a caster angle like that on a RC car^^ but if it works like that, why not
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