edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

For front, 566 is too sticky. I would use 563 (grooved medium) in low traction

So the order of traction goes...

563<567<565<566

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The Rabbit is for the Tamiya front ends.

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

Thanks guys!

-Rich

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Hi guys,

Did any of you find one side of the fgx exotek was .5mm lower on the servo side. If so how did you fix the issue? extra weight on other side? Every time I check ride height it's .5mm out on one side.

Thanks,
Adrian

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Check for tweak first. Make sure the main chassis is perfectly flat. Loosen or remove the brace from the upper deck to the gearbox assembly. If its not flat on a straight edge, make sure the motor mount is seated properly. I had one car that would not sit flat and noticed a gap under the mount. Once that is flat, reattach the link and make sure it swivels easily in your fingers. It needs to be loose with no load or it pulls or pushes tweak into your setup. Put a rough setup on your car. Now if one side dips, it is a weight problem somewhere. At that point, get it on scales and see if the side to side, front to back weights are good. Better yet, if you can get 4 small scales, one for each tire, check the weight distribution on a level surface. Now put a setup on your car and check for tweak one last time.

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

Has anyone tried these new IFS parts yet?

3Racing tech support says they will fix my issue of the lower suspension arms and/or lower ball studs coming loose.

http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=6356

Thanks,

-Rich

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Thanks again John. Also are the exotek front arms meant to be able to rub on the inside of the wheel arch? The wheels seem to move freely with no load but I'm sure they will hit during a race and either wear through or crack the rim. Just wondering if I need to put some bigger hex adapters in so they aren't rubbing, currently run 6mm but may go to 7mm.

Thanks
Adrian

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Try putting less caster. Meaning make the king pin stand up to maybe 5°.

VegasHB

I did it with my original build, pretty nifty but the front shocks aren't really oil filled that come with the kit.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

What does the gap look like now between the wheel and the arm? I would imagine that the range of motion you currently have will be decreased as you lower the end point and dual rate of the steering. Once I turn my car on and get a good working setup for the day, I find my dual rate setting is nowhere near max steering. I set my endpoints left and right so that the wheel will not touch the arm under load during initial setup. Good Luck!

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

You can also use different sized wheel hexes on the FGX. I think 3Racing makes 4mm, 5mm, 6mm (stock size) & 7mm aluminum hexes to push the wheels out (or in) depending on tires/wheels, etc....

-Rich

Sorcerer001

iTrader: (20)

I know I'm going to catch some grief for even asking - Has anyone put together a comprehensive list of setups for the FGX? I'm primarily interested in a setup for prepared, treated asphalt (high traction, high temp) at the moment, for everything from tire selection to springs, oils, and grease, sway bar, etc...
I guess I'm looking for decent baseline setups for the stock suspension geometry - no Tamiya front ends, no RC18 shocks. I've got all of the durability upgrades, high speed gears (my gearing is perfect), but the car is an absolute nightmare to drive. I've been fairly competitive most of my life, but this car... it's making me feel like I'm losing my marbles, lol. With the car bouncing/skipping through every corner (front AND rear), I still managed a few laps that were on par with the faster cars, but it was pretty comedic to watch.

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

I am in the same boat, trying to find a good setup, I have 1 fully upgraded FGX and am putting together 2 more for my son's. We have a national F1 race coming to our local track in Oct. and want to run them in it, but so far mine has been pretty underwhelming. Tamiya foam tires are the only thing that seem to work well on our outdoor asphalt track (in FL - 120+ degree track temp lately) and they wear down in about 30 minutes of racing, not to mention the huge chunks that get taken out of them with the slightest collision with anything.

I am running Pit Shimizu grooved soft rubber tires (also tried the medium fronts) on mine and softened up the rear end as much as possible, but it still feels like it's going to spin the ass around when I give it full throttle on our 90' straight (21.5t brushless blinky).

The 3Racing option ball diff (was in there when I bought it used) but may try the stock gear diff next time at the track, I will keep you posted if I make any improvements.

-Rich

Zedsispeho

Hello,
Pit shimizu tires (soft) tend to loose all their grip when températures is over 25°C (I don't know measure in ° fahrenheit). rear groove tires from shimizu are soft. With high temperatures you are better off with HPI soft/medium or Ride tires