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Old 05-01-2013, 11:26 AM   #4276
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I am ready to try mine on an asphalt track!
3 of rear toe looks extreme but if it works...

I wish the rear suspension could be more precise and smoother. The ride height keeps changing.
I run super hard spring with droop screw to control ride height, it never changes.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:31 AM   #4277
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With hard springs on carpet it was better. But on asphalt with much less grip...
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:51 AM   #4278
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With hard springs on carpet it was better. But on asphalt with much less grip...
don't know why, it's too much rear grip for me all the time.
I need to put full traction compound in the front, and in the rear, just a strip in the inside of the tire.
and I use the hardest rear anti-roll bar.

our track is smooth and grippy(norcal hobbies, reedy onroad race of champion race here), and I use HPI bridgestone tire.
Every time qualifying or racing, I need to race at least 2 minutes with massive understeer, and then the tire can heat up enough to work properly.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:36 PM   #4279
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I will take my hard springs and swaybar to the track jic.
I have soft shimizu f/r.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:37 AM   #4280
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I will take my hard springs and swaybar to the track jic.
I have soft shimizu f/r.
I had super grip in the rear also so I went to the 2deg block. So far so good. The 3 may be too much toe.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:38 AM   #4281
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu View Post
I run super hard spring with droop screw to control ride height, it never changes.
Are you racing norcal this weekend?
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:06 PM   #4282
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I had super grip in the rear also so I went to the 2deg block. So far so good. The 3 may be too much toe.
Well post your settings! We have only one in this thread for asphalt.

I will take my 2 block also and test. Thx.
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:15 PM   #4283
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Are you racing norcal this weekend?
no,
1. fgx rear tire is gone, good excuse.
2. and I really don't want to damage that car (IFS is still a big package, and mckune conversion is no longer in production), it's a beauty and I just want to keep it in one piece and randomly have fun with it.
3. and they changed to 15mins a-main, absolutely awesome if I don't need to worry about breakage and get a bit more competitive.
4. Just ordered a Speed passion SP-1 and it will arrive in a week or two, will change to F104 front end and thoroughly enjoy F1 class then.
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Old 05-02-2013, 01:20 PM   #4284
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are there no individual replacement parts for the IFS, front arms, castor block, top plate ....ect.
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Old 05-02-2013, 01:31 PM   #4285
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I have a used set I can sell $15 shipped. . It only needs a new bottom rack which exotek makes.

Last edited by edhchoe; 05-02-2013 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #4286
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Yeah, ifs is fragile. I have broken 2 ball studs but I am now replacing them with aluminum and adding the exoteck ifs bit. I hope it works.
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:52 PM   #4287
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Yeah, ifs is fragile. I have broken 2 ball studs but I am now replacing them with aluminum and adding the exoteck ifs bit. I hope it works.
I don't think aluminum is stronger, the fact is that I've broken 2 aluminum ball studs by screwing them into the car.

this is my solution, with someone else's idea:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11956929-post4196.html

and yet I've achieved to broken a droop screw...
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:54 PM   #4288
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One idea we had to help with the durability of the 4.8mm balls is to use the ABC balls from TQRC and use a steel screw to go through them. The stock 3Racing aluminum balls aren't very durable.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:04 PM   #4289
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One idea we had to help with the durability of the 4.8mm balls is to use the ABC balls from TQRC and use a steel screw to go through them. The stock 3Racing aluminum balls aren't very durable.
but that sounds like overside capture rod end, and it will rotate in the wrong direction.
Most importantly, the lower arm is a piece, it uses 4.8mm ball stud, it's a pain in the arse to take off (you can't rotate it, or you will either break the arm, or the droop screw plate), but there's no other option.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:21 PM   #4290
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Can always go the Vintage F1 route and cut the arms so they'll pop off instead of break! :-)
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