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Old 02-03-2013, 11:14 PM   #4081
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I'm in the process of rebuilding my FGX from the ground up. New V2 Exotek chassis, new front suspension, new Exotek steering knuckles, new Exotek rear hubs, and new Exotek rear upper suspension links. I'm finding on the front end the knuckles hit the push rod mount on the arm before the knuckle gets to full throw. From the looks of it, it looks like the stock steering knuckles would hit as well. Has anyone found a way around this? Has anyone tried the inner pushrod mount and Dremel'd off the outer mount?
I shimmed the lower 4mm and upper 3.5mm

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Old 02-03-2013, 11:24 PM   #4082
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yeah not sure that is going to work here as that will also lower the ride height. we run on a track with asphalt banked turns so ride heights tend to be high here.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:32 PM   #4083
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Yeah, dremeling some material will work. Which I may try later on. My ride height right now is 5mm front and back.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:20 AM   #4084
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Got the stock motor mount to work with the alloy bulkhead and Exotek V2 chassis.....



I think you had the gear differential the wrong way sir. You flipped it or is it part of your mod?
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:27 AM   #4085
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Instructions say to put it in the other way...but it doesn't really matter.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:51 AM   #4086
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Instructions say to put it in the other way...but it doesn't really matter.
Thank you sir for the prompt reply. I am building mine too that's why I asked. I find the conventional way a bit notchy. I might try your way. Cheers and a great week ahead.

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Old 02-04-2013, 01:59 AM   #4087
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We've found it often feels notchy when it rubs against the upper cover. Flipping it around will probably still feel notchy. If you are using oil in the diff you may need to sand the flat side some to make it thinner where the cover bolts on. On mine I switched to running AE black grease so I think the seal isn't needed any more so I took it off and the diff no longer rubs. Alternatively you can sand a bit at the top cover to make it clear the diff gear better but given that you have the aluminum one you probably don't want to do that...I know I wouldn't want to.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:06 AM   #4088
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
We've found it often feels notchy when it rubs against the upper cover. Flipping it around will probably still feel notchy. If you are using oil in the diff you may need to sand the flat side some to make it thinner where the cover bolts on. On mine I switched to running AE black grease so I think the seal isn't needed any more so I took it off and the diff no longer rubs. Alternatively you can sand a bit at the top cover to make it clear the diff gear better but given that you have the aluminum one you probably don't want to do that...I know I wouldn't want to.
Thanks for the said tips. I might change the diff oil and remove the thick gasket instead to reduce the thickness of it. 1mm off will surely be a big difference. Cheers.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:48 AM   #4089
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I put tamiya front knuckles on my FGX and the wheels do not turn as much because of the shorter length. How can I correct this?
When I gave a crap about the FGX , I used TRG knuckles and made my own carbon sheet extensions. I made the ballstud distance to the kingpin = to that of the stock knuckle..... They worked a treat and no more pi$$ weak 8x5 bearings and slop .....
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:50 AM   #4090
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When I gave a crap about the FGX , I used TRG knuckles and made my own carbon sheet extensions. I made the ballstud distance to the kingpin = to that of the stock knuckle..... They worked a treat and no more pi$$ weak 8x5 bearings and slop .....
I did that too only instead of extending the TRG CF pieces I cut my own with a Dremel.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:23 PM   #4091
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[/QUOTE]

Your going to have to do a lot of dremeling to the motor mount and left side chassis stiffener. To get to the right gearing if your running a 21.5
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:37 PM   #4092
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Thank you sir for the prompt reply. I am building mine too that's why I asked. I find the conventional way a bit notchy. I might try your way. Cheers and a great week ahead.

Notchy? Get a new set of bearing carriers for the diff. The ones in the kits seriously are not good at all and make the bearings wobble side to side. Get the set for the Zero S. If all is seated right, there is just a little play between the bulkheads when all is assembled. If not, the whole assembly binds up.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:57 PM   #4093
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Notchy? Get a new set of bearing carriers for the diff. The ones in the kits seriously are not good at all and make the bearings wobble side to side. Get the set for the Zero S. If all is seated right, there is just a little play between the bulkheads when all is assembled. If not, the whole assembly binds up.
Thanks, I'll try change my bearing carriers then if that will work. I'll reopen the diff later. TFS. Will try this route first. Cheers.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:01 PM   #4094
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Notchy? Get a new set of bearing carriers for the diff. The ones in the kits seriously are not good at all and make the bearings wobble side to side. Get the set for the Zero S. If all is seated right, there is just a little play between the bulkheads when all is assembled. If not, the whole assembly binds up.
I bought some of those as well...they helped a lot but the diff still rubs for me.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:18 PM   #4095
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Quote:
Your going to have to do a lot of dremeling to the motor mount and left side chassis stiffener. To get to the right gearing if your running a 21.5
Fortunately, I don't have to. I purchased the V2 Aluminium Motor Mount.
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