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Old 12-07-2012, 12:04 AM   #3856
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I was thinking about an extractor but I don't think there's enough space. Gonna try cutting a slot with a dremel and if that doesn't work I'll just drill off the head and then use vise grips to get the rest out since like I said its about halfway out.

Just wanted to see if anyone else had better ideas.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:41 AM   #3857
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Use a Cap head screw Vostok,the 3racing button heads can't handle the torque load in that area.There marginal every where else too.3racing saved some money on the quality of the screws for sure.

I noticed when mine was halfway in its was starting to strip,so I took it out,binned the screw and replaced it with a 3mm Cap head screw I had laying around...Bigger driver tip,get's the screw all the way in.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:55 AM   #3858
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That's a good idea, no reason it has to be a button head. I may even have some cap screws laying around. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:27 AM   #3859
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No problems

I actually meant to post it up a while back for the new guys building there kits,just forgot,and you reminded me.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:11 AM   #3860
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^I agree with the use if cap head screws. I change mine too. Sturdier and easy to maintain.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:17 PM   #3861
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Default Speed Passion F1 body

After Dirt Monkey posted the Speed Passion F1 body, I went looking for a source in the US. I found Speed Passion motors, etc but didn't find the F1 body. When I tried to log on to SpeedPassion.net, it wouldn't open. Anyone know anything about where to get these bodies in the US?

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Old 12-07-2012, 11:29 PM   #3862
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I have one of the original HPI Super F1 cars. I have the original chassis and rear pod, but the car currently has the CRC chassis with the link rear end. I have HPI front, side, and rear springs, etc. Is there anyone out there who would be interested in buying it?

Scott
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:38 PM   #3863
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Thumbs up for the inboard front shock conversion. Second night out and it is really consistent , good damping and responsiveness.
Even have decent turn in with Ride S2 compound at both ends.
The only fail was Tamiya black can related. Apparently they need to have two brushes to work !?!!!
Full setup available via p.m if you wish
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:43 PM   #3864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetmaster View Post
Thumbs up for the inboard front shock conversion. Second night out and it is really consistent , good damping and responsiveness.
Even have decent turn in with Ride S2 compound at both ends.
The only fail was Tamiya black can related. Apparently they need to have two brushes to work !?!!!
Full setup available via p.m if you wish
Stock 3R IFS or something else?
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:44 PM   #3865
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3racing, with Exotek uppers
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:25 PM   #3866
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So does anyone have tips on gearing? I have the 35t spur in and I tried a 31t pinion which I had heard suggested and it doesn't fit with the aluminum bulkhead/motor mount combo hop-up. I put a smaller one on that does fit (21t, my smallest), just wondering what I should be aiming for with 21.5T blinky since I've heard a lot of conflicting stuff.
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:32 PM   #3867
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I have 35spur 33 pinion. I don't use the battery door and I filed the oem upper deck so it doesn't touch the motor.
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:11 PM   #3868
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Sorry, I actually put on a 25T and I have a little room to go bigger, maybe 28-29T. 25T gives me an FDR of around 4.0 which is what you usually want to start with for a Touring Car, but I don't know what's good for F1.

This is with the aluminum rear bulkhead and motor mount combo from 3Racing:

http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=5435

The aluminum around the lower motor bolt hole is preventing me from going any bigger in pinion size.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:47 PM   #3869
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One word - Dremel
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:39 AM   #3870
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hi, would like to ask which F1 to by a FGX, F113 or a F104V2
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