3 racing new F1
#3811
Tech Champion
#3812
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Ok so I am looking at getting one of these for the fledgling F1 class in my area. I currently race GT3 and Tamiya Mini classes. So I do have some experience although am far from a pro. Is there a post that I can be pointed to in this thread that has a list of the must have hop ups to start with? With the thread being 255 pages reading the whole thing would have me reading till next year .
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Thanks in advance,
Jason
#3813
Ok so I am looking at getting one of these for the fledgling F1 class in my area. I currently race GT3 and Tamiya Mini classes. So I do have some experience although am far from a pro. Is there a post that I can be pointed to in this thread that has a list of the must have hop ups to start with? With the thread being 255 pages reading the whole thing would have me reading till next year .
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Thanks in advance,
Jason
#3814
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Ok so I am looking at getting one of these for the fledgling F1 class in my area. I currently race GT3 and Tamiya Mini classes. So I do have some experience although am far from a pro. Is there a post that I can be pointed to in this thread that has a list of the must have hop ups to start with? With the thread being 255 pages reading the whole thing would have me reading till next year .
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Fast gear set (smaller spur gears (4) than box stock spur gear)
Spur gear 48p. 30-34t
Some sort of reinforced front suspension arms. (Search this thread)
Sticky tires such as shimizu soft
Assembly tips.
Diff housing: use 1000 grit sand paper from Walmart to make the joining surfaces absolutely smooth to prevent leak problems. Over-tightening diff housing can warp the housing and cause leaking also.
Back up the diff gear one or two notches than manual recommendation for smooth gear meshing.
Use thick grease on o-rings to prevent leaky rear shocks as there is no screwed on end caps.
New items
IFS - if using with exotek upper arms, polish the aluminum balls for the king pin to make the ifs smooth. And take out upper black plastic spacer on the king pin and use a 2mm spacer instead. Don't use too much lube on the friction shocks. It is very thick.
Exotek carbon chassis ver 2 is due in about two weeks.
#3815
Tech Adept
I noticed the lower A-Arms on the IFS kit are quite a bit different than the box-stock arms. Are they less prone to damage at all? It also looks like the IFS upper deck is more reinforced, another big complaint.
#3817
#3818
Tech Adept
#3822
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I have alot of the usual build tools used in these builds. I am an avid RC Aircraft flier/builder. Plus my TC 6.1 worlds, M-05L (Hopped up), and TB-02 (Hopped up) have all been done/built by me. I wouldn't do any build without my dynamites . But that is always a great tip thanks.
Jason
Jason
#3823
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I have built over a dozen Tamiya kits and all of them had philips head screws. 3racing FGX was my first kit that came with full hex head screws. As a result, I ended up building the whole car with an L -wrench. When I was done, my finger tips hurt so much! Since then I have purchased proper tools and it's been a lot easier on the fingers when I install new parts on the car.
#3825
Tech Champion
Ground carbide is even better. More accurate and lasts longer.