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Old 11-01-2011, 03:03 AM   #346
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maybe nikko's ball dif will fit :-D

seriously, why this balldiff-mania, when you didnt drove this car with gear diff yet?

Try to compare numbers of FGX's and Sakura FF's gear diff parts. If they're same, FF's ball diff will fit to FGX
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:35 AM   #347
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Thanks Pal for the info... I only want a ball diff , my preference.....
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Old 11-01-2011, 05:51 AM   #348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Littlejohn, you are right ,I do race in the summertime at FBF , which has a 184foot straight, and need as much gearing as possible...
They don't race F1 class at FBF, the only electric class that is raced there is 1/10 mod, all other classes are gas.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:02 AM   #349
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Default Front upper arms

Hi all
ran the fgx tonight at Sma (sydney) went fantastic, plenty of grip in corners, at times a little to much.

How is everyone going with the front upper suspension arms?
Have broken 2, one on sunday practicing (right hand side) and the other side tonight, the trailing edge (smaller) of the arms broke. Measured both locations of the breaks and they are within 2mm of each other.

Couple of suggestions made by others tonight
(1) Superglue piece of trimmed down sprue from kit/spares
(2) Superglue small carbonfibre tube on the underside where the bracing is molded

What do you think?
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:11 AM   #350
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I know they don't race F1 cars at FBF, but I always ran my nikko F1 there, and I plan to run my FGX there for fun on weekdays... I just don't want to change the 21.5t I plan to put in it...
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:17 AM   #351
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sometimes boiling the arms for 30minutes will soften them up a little bit and may help with the breakage.
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:08 AM   #352
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More than one has broken the front arms on their GX already!

Can we expect an optional arm deal coming from 3racing or is this a first batch only problem?
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:32 AM   #353
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Correction to my earlier post. The pinion is 32 teeth.

Also, wanted to mention double check body post holes before drilling! I trusted the dimples molded in the lexan and they are not perfect.

Besides that my only complaint is the noisy gearbox. I just may be spoiled since all my other on-road cars are direct drive.

I am using a savox 1251 servo, novak edge esc and novak ballistic 21.5 motor.

First couple practice days I was running with the suggested set up from the manual. using the supplied diff and shock oils.

Today I will be running the one hole pistons and add some weight to the rear, hoping I can get it to swing around some in the corners.

Knowing what I know now I would have ordered super soft tires all around instead of s fronts and ss rears.
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:02 AM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer robert View Post
Correction to my earlier post. The pinion is 32 teeth.

Also, wanted to mention double check body post holes before drilling! I trusted the dimples molded in the lexan and they are not perfect.
Found that one out myself! front hole needs to be about 3mm further forward from the dimple, rear holes need to be about 2mm wider (from centreline).

Quote:
Besides that my only complaint is the noisy gearbox. I just may be spoiled since all my other on-road cars are direct drive.

I am using a savox 1251 servo, novak edge esc and novak ballistic 21.5 motor.
I'm using the same servo... does your steering link rub the battery pack? had to space the servo up a little.

Quote:
First couple practice days I was running with the suggested set up from the manual. using the supplied diff and shock oils.

Today I will be running the one hole pistons and add some weight to the rear, hoping I can get it to swing around some in the corners.

Knowing what I know now I would have ordered super soft tires all around instead of s fronts and ss rears.
what hole pistons did you build up with? I put the 3holes in to soften the rear up a little... although on second thoughts, probably don't need to do that!

I've got SS rubber all round coming... although for the series here there is a spec rubber to be used.. still be interested to see how it goes though.
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:13 AM   #355
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My Formula Rabbit 1160g include rubber tire and body
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:14 AM   #356
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Originally I built the car with 2 hole pistons, but today will be trying one hole. The suspension feel did not change much but I will see if it makes any on track difference. The kit shock oil is labeled 700 so I assume it is 70wt. Its thicker than anything I currently have so I am sticking with it for now and just experimenting with the supplied pistons.

Yes, I also had a clearence issue between the battery wire and steering link. The battery itself was fine (Venom 3800) I had to use additional spacers to raise the link and ground down the terminal/re-solder that wire so it sits closer to the battery. Still rubs the wire but just barely.

I want to know more about the double turnbuckle upper suspension set up. How do I get the needed parts for a set up like that?
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:30 AM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I still have not gotten an answer for the ball diff option... Could someone at 3racing chime in... I want to put my ball diff in, and give away the gear diff .....
you can use 3racing sakura zero ball diff cup with 3racing M-05 ball diff pully, it's fit
but pully is not in center,
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Old 11-01-2011, 12:09 PM   #358
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Quote:
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My Formula Rabbit 1160g include rubber tire and body
I like the FGX/F104 hybrid there...did you make it F104 sized for F104 bodies or FGX sized for FGX bodies?
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Old 11-01-2011, 12:29 PM   #359
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AI

who makes that motor?
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:21 PM   #360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I like the FGX/F104 hybrid there...did you make it F104 sized for F104 bodies or FGX sized for FGX bodies?
it's for f104 bodies
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