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Old 08-24-2012, 03:11 PM
  #3466  
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Hey guys
Cant seem to gfind a good straight answer
My local club is starting up f1 silver can 540 racing.
I have electronics already to dump in just need a chassis,
How does the sakura pair up against the tamiya f1's everyone has on at pur track?
What tyres should i pick up we run on low traction/medium traction aspahlt.
Any upgrades needed straight out of the box
What spares to carry?
Thankyou
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:16 PM
  #3467  
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does anyone make steering arm extensions so when you use the F104 uprights the steering geometry isn't all messed up?
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:21 PM
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Locally we have around 45 racers, with 7 FGX, and growing.

FGX - Good for beginner to intermediate driving skills. Very easy to drive compared to Tamiya. Tires are pit shimizu PS-0561 and PS-0563 or HPI 102906 and 103017.

Tamiya on high grip smooth track will usually be faster, but need a better driver to do the speed.

For me, zero upgrades and doing very well. Just usual reinforcement during the build.

http://www.rccartips.com/3racing-fgx...car-review.htm

Spares are front arms, knuckles, idler gear, speed gears, top deck.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:00 PM
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Hey
Thanks for the quick reply.
I saw that they are bringing out the new f1 with independant front suspension any word when its coming? Worth waiting for?
Racing silver can do i get the sakura ff gear set and what pinion to get a good ratio.

Last edited by AleD123; 08-24-2012 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:16 PM
  #3470  
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FGX is a super car, like mentioned for beginners and intermediates (i'm a rank beginner) ..

i would say though, find a really good deal on the chassis kit ($99 at rcmart.com right now) and go right to the exotek site and get the MD chassis upgrade ($149 approx), rear linkage (about $20), rear hubs ($20 approx) and adjustable front arms ($40 approx). with those upgrades you'll have a flying machine!

another tip, pre-tap all the screw holes to save the hex screws. i found they stripped easy and wreaked havoc on my hex drivers. the holes are super tight which prevents the screws from loosening but a little patience and fore thought goes a long way.

on my second upper deck now and have read many times about easy breakage of the upper deck and i found out the hard way how easy . if this one goes i will for sure make the hop up to the MD upgrade without hesitation .

have fun!
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:47 PM
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FYI, Integy sells the kit for $82.49 and the parts there are the cheapest I've seen as well, that's where I picked my kit/parts up
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NewWestF1
Nope. McKune is no longer making them. I sent an email 2 weeks ago and they told me that the Exotek conversion was the way to go, they weren't going to make them anymore .. no update .. zero .

I have one i will sell, hit me up. Only used it for two race days.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:05 PM
  #3473  
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Anyone recommend a new screw kit? Titanium or stainless? I don't like the screws supplied with the kit.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:32 PM
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Id use the TI screws ..
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hanzo3
Anyone recommend a new screw kit? Titanium or stainless? I don't like the screws supplied with the kit.
stay away from stainless, it softer than stock, ti is nice but pricy, you could always jut buy the screws you need is packets from someone like RTL Fasteners, then you could pick your grade and it would be cheeper
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:08 PM
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Well here's my prototype for a broken top deck. It's a little frankensteiny, but hopefully it will last till I can get the exotek.



Well after mounting the top deck there was a clearance issue with the servo rod. duh. I had to file the servo side brace almost to the same shape as the original plastic. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow,

Last edited by C&B RC; 08-25-2012 at 07:58 PM. Reason: update
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:05 PM
  #3477  
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nice fix,

does anybody run the exotek chassis with the aluminum motor mount, if so what did you do for the right side post that doesnt fit? thanks
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:35 AM
  #3478  
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ok. i figured it out. thanks guys.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:51 PM
  #3479  
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Originally Posted by Team Lotus
I have been racing F1 rc cars since 1987 and in truth, they haven't changed all that much; they are still straight axle pan cars basically. Now I know that Gadget and others seem to think that is still the way to go because it's simple and it works. No argument there.

However, I for one am sick of the archaic straight axle pan car design of F1 rc racing, and this new car is a breath of fresh air, and EXACTLY the direction that F1 rc should go! I say to heck with ROAR and those other so-called sanctioning bodies who seem to be determined to keep the status quo in design where both F1 and pan cars are concerned. Just ignore them, and start your own F1 class with your rules package and go at it. If enough of us do that then maybe ROAR and others will finally wake up and "smell the coffee" and change their rules.

I love new thinking and innovation, especially where F1 is concerned. That is why my heroes were Colin Chapman, Gordon Murray, Jim Hall, etc. They never settled for the "status quo", but preferred instead to push the envelop and not only think "outside the box", but downright flatten it!!
no argument here
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:12 AM
  #3480  
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Can someone tell me what I need to swap to F104 front knuckles?
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