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Old 07-26-2012, 01:24 AM   #3226
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Hi, here is what I gathered from websites. Revtech seems powerful on paper.

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Old 07-26-2012, 01:45 AM   #3227
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How can the revtech be so high in KV but still be a 21.5 ???? I was leaning towards the Thunder Power since most have had really good luck with them.
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:40 AM   #3228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZERTA RACING View Post
How can the revtech be so high in KV but still be a 21.5 ???? I was leaning towards the Thunder Power since most have had really good luck with them.
I would imagine the rev tech , to not have a high torque rating , that would be interesting to know. By adjusting (advancing) the can timing, you gain rpm and lose torque .

I personally would buy the rev tech for an f1 , for less wheelspin and great top end speed ( if geared right)
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:42 PM   #3229
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Team FGX

Good news teammates, the FGX is still getting faster.

Test Update (29 July 2012) - Felt very good especially with the Pit Shimizu tires. Able to keep up with the direct drive cars on the same 50 lap.

Rear

* Shimizu Racing (#PS-0565) Grooved Tyre (R)
* 4mm ride height
* 2.5mm droop
* 1 deg camber
* 2 deg toe in
* 2000wt diff oil in the shocks
* 30wt oil in the differential
* Kit rear springs
* 4mm aluminum wheel hex

Front

* Shimizu Racing (#PS-0561) Soft Grooved Tyre (F)
* 4mm ride height
* 1mm droop
* 1 deg camber
* 1 deg toe-out
* Kit front springs
* 5mm aluminum wheel hex

Others

* 29 pinion to give fdr of 3.7
* Tamiya Formula Tuned 32T
* Novak GTX esc
* Old Orion 4000 30c stick pack
* Willpower (must drive it hard, tight and keep momentum on corners)

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Old 07-28-2012, 10:07 PM   #3230
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question: what are you guys doing for the front wheels? my wheels rub on the inside, are you sanding them or did i do something wrong? thanks
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:06 PM   #3231
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question: what are you guys doing for the front wheels? my wheels rub on the inside, are you sanding them or did i do something wrong? thanks
make sure there is a spacer behind the axcel pin then mount the hex . there is excessive play with the bearing having a larger inner dia. compared to the axcel dia. . might want to try a wider hex . or chk the condition of the spindel . might need a little trim ..
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:36 AM   #3232
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make sure there is a spacer behind the axcel pin then mount the hex . there is excessive play with the bearing having a larger inner dia. compared to the axcel dia. . might want to try a wider hex . or chk the condition of the spindel . might need a little trim ..
ok, thanks ill check it.

so the manual says front and rear wheels are different but they are both the same. anybody know the difference between the front and the rear?
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:45 AM   #3233
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building my new FGX i think i've stripped 3x 2mm hex drivers ... can anyone suggest a good manufacturer of hex drivers that don't strip every 10-15 nuts? kinda getting pissed off ...
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:54 AM   #3234
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building my new FGX i think i've stripped 3x 2mm hex drivers ... can anyone suggest a good manufacturer of hex drivers that don't strip every 10-15 nuts? kinda getting pissed off ...
HUDY is good, but $$$
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:55 AM   #3235
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my wheels don"t fit. this is crap. anybody else have this problem? i just put on 1mm wider spacer and still no fit in the front, help..
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:24 PM   #3236
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Someone here mentioned that the screws in this kit were quality pieces?
I have to disagree, I think they kinda suck. Shallow hexes as well as having crap in the hex holes that should be picked out before attempting to screw them into the seemingly undersized holes.
I started pre threading them with a socket head cap screw, they have the best hex heads. Flat head and button heads suck as far as hex hole "bite" goes.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:28 PM   #3237
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ok. i guess they gave me all rear wheels in the kit because i took the wheels off my tamiya f201 and they fit fine. weird they would give only rear wheels in a kit.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:56 PM   #3238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr0311 View Post
HUDY is good, but $$$
thanks, i'll look into getting some replacement 2mm from them ... bought an OFNA Racing set yesterday and the 2mm hex is already almost toast

i would have to agree that the screws in this set are kinda crappy and the holes are definitely too small, i started pre-threading everything too but now i'm going back to replace some of the flat heads that just didn't make it all the way in tightly ..
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:17 PM   #3239
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Quote:
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ok, thanks ill check it.

so the manual says front and rear wheels are different but they are both the same. anybody know the difference between the front and the rear?
front wheel are narrower than the rears. you may have two sets of rears.

firts time out lower front arms tweeked, top broken, bearing outafter hit from the rear. second time out broke top deck from sliding out into wood barrier. Unfortunately the quality of the FGX kit is not up to Tamiya standards. I have had mine for only 3 months. and everything except the gearbox cournter gears have been replaced with updated higher quality parts
I even replaced the screws with titanium versions.

Although the car is mostly Exoteck, the total cost is still lower than an a full optioned F104. it can take a solid hit now!!
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:59 PM   #3240
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Hi, after around 3 hours of track time, so far so good. Nothing replaced even after several roll overs, hit on metal pipes and crash with other cars. Everything stock, no upgrades.

On the other hand, Tamiya, broken arms, rear bearings, rear link suspensions, diffusers, tplates. I am beginning to think the FGX is more durable (assuming the epoxy reinforcements were done during assembly).
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