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Old 07-19-2012, 12:42 PM   #3136
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The biggest help with front tire lift is stiffer rear springs and heavier damper oil for high traction surfaces. Ride height will make a difference if the rear of car is not stiff enough. If you can get the car super stiff, then you can work on mechanical grip in the rear instead of worrying about ride height. Unlike foam tire cars where you like a lot of weight on the rear tires, the FGX likes more weight toward the front. Because the car is designed like it is, it's very hard to get the car to a true 50/50 weight bias. My cars are better with everything slid as far forward as possible, but sit at around 60 rear/40 front.
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Old 07-19-2012, 02:16 PM   #3137
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The biggest help with front tire lift is stiffer rear springs and heavier damper oil for high traction surfaces. Ride height will make a difference if the rear of car is not stiff enough. If you can get the car super stiff, then you can work on mechanical grip in the rear instead of worrying about ride height. Unlike foam tire cars where you like a lot of weight on the rear tires, the FGX likes more weight toward the front. Because the car is designed like it is, it's very hard to get the car to a true 50/50 weight bias. My cars are better with everything slid as far forward as possible, but sit at around 60 rear/40 front.
+1 on the weight. When I switched to a shorty lipo shifted all the way forward it really helped. I also widened the front track as far as I could. Made a big difference. I run 1000 wt in the shocks but I can run whatever springs and sway bars I want and the front tire stays down. It may get really light but it is still down.
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:01 PM   #3138
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Hello
Apart from the weight, do you guys have much difference in chassis height between front and rear?
Something like 6 mm in the front and 10 mm at rear for example or do you run your chassis (almost) flat?
Oh and do you run on carpet or asphalt?
Thanks for your help
Cheers
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:42 PM   #3139
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Originally Posted by Zedsispeho View Post
Hello
Apart from the weight, do you guys have much difference in chassis height between front and rear?
Something like 6 mm in the front and 10 mm at rear for example or do you run your chassis (almost) flat?
Oh and do you run on carpet or asphalt?
Thanks for your help
Cheers
I run mine relatively flat: 5mm front, 5.5mm rear.
Droop: .5mm front, 1 mm rear
Front: Gold medium springs, Olive F201 springs in the rear, the stiffest ones, 5 stripe sway bar.

I keep the car low and stiff as I'd rather adjust for understeer/oversteer with camber, tires and front springs and not have to worry about traction rolling.

Tires make the biggest difference as far as surfaces go. Indoor run the Pits, Outdoor, run the HPI Med rear and Soft front. HPI Med fronts will work, but require extra prep, ie, scuff the tire, sauce the tire and then bag the tire. They will soften up real nice after a couple of cycles and do make a difference on really hot surfaces as they do not "go off" like an overheated soft compound tire.

Just an opinion for the guys running the stock front end, but I think by adding the exotek lower front braces has the added bonus of stiffening up the front end which helps in keeping the inside front wheel down on high speed corners **by keeping the outside arm from flexing so much**.
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Last edited by liljohn1064; 07-19-2012 at 05:46 PM. Reason: incomplete thought
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:23 PM   #3140
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Originally Posted by Zedsispeho View Post
Hello
Apart from the weight, do you guys have much difference in chassis height between front and rear?
Something like 6 mm in the front and 10 mm at rear for example or do you run your chassis (almost) flat?
Oh and do you run on carpet or asphalt?
Thanks for your help
Cheers

Chassis is almost flat at 7mm front and rear. I run the rabbit chassis conversion so I have the tamiya f104 front end but I have dealt with all of the same tuning issues as the stock fgx. I run 1 mm droop up front and between 1 and 3 mm rear depending on track conditions. I am on carpet and run the soft pit grooved tires all around. I prefer to do a lot of tuning with spring changes, sway bar changes, and anti squat. I have been using 1000 wt in the shocks for a while now but have used all of the tamiya f201 springs again depending on conditions. I usually use the medium springs but I have used the softest and stiffest on the same track. My home track will change a lot with temperature and humidity so it is always a tuning challeng every time you go to race. It makes it more fun though.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:49 AM   #3141
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Hello Guys,
Thank you for your answers.
Regarding the tires you mentionned the pit shimizu
I currently run this, Rear soft + Front med, sometimes front soft when low temperature
You also mentionned HPI tires (I will try that).

what about Ride tires? Are they any good on asphalt? I believe that this is whar Marcus uses, or am I incorrect?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:26 AM   #3142
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Hey guys, quick question about my build which Im starting.
Im installing the 3 racing Aluminum motor mount and rear bulkheads onto the Exotek Carbon chassis, looks like the motor mount doesn't align with the holes, is this correct or will I need to modify, or should I just use the stock motor mount?
Thanks

Apart from this is their any other issues I may encounter throughout the build or things I should and should not do, any help/advise would be appreciated?
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:34 AM   #3143
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Originally Posted by Cristian Silva View Post
Hey guys, quick question about my build which Im starting.
Im installing the 3 racing Aluminum motor mount and rear bulkheads onto the Exotek Carbon chassis, looks like the motor mount doesn't align with the holes, is this correct or will I need to modify, or should I just use the stock motor mount?
Thanks

Apart from this is their any other issues I may encounter throughout the build or things I should and should not do, any help/advise would be appreciated?
Hello,
Exotek racing mention it on their website
http://www.exotekracing.com/fgx-efx-...is-conversion/
"- You can install up to a 38 tooth pinion/ 35 tooth spur with no motor mount grinding! Compatible with the stock motor mount- Not compatible with the optional motor mount set."

I am afraid that you have to stick with the stock mount
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:49 AM   #3144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zedsispeho View Post
Hello Guys,
Thank you for your answers.
Regarding the tires you mentionned the pit shimizu
I currently run this, Rear soft + Front med, sometimes front soft when low temperature
You also mentionned HPI tires (I will try that).

what about Ride tires? Are they any good on asphalt? I believe that this is whar Marcus uses, or am I incorrect?

Thanks for your help.
On hot asphalt, the ribbed pits are not very good. the HPI med/med or soft/med work very well. the pits that i use are f104 pits in the rear (0572) but i rigged up a pair of rear wheels to get it to fit.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:38 AM   #3145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cristian Silva View Post
Hey guys, quick question about my build which Im starting.
Im installing the 3 racing Aluminum motor mount and rear bulkheads onto the Exotek Carbon chassis, looks like the motor mount doesn't align with the holes, is this correct or will I need to modify, or should I just use the stock motor mount?
Thanks

Apart from this is their any other issues I may encounter throughout the build or things I should and should not do, any help/advise would be appreciated?
Are you trying to use the option motor mount with the plastic bulkheads? If so you can't do that, you have to use the aluminium motor mount with the aluminium bulkheads.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:20 PM   #3146
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Originally Posted by Cristian Silva View Post
Hey guys, quick question about my build which Im starting.
Im installing the 3 racing Aluminum motor mount and rear bulkheads onto the Exotek Carbon chassis, looks like the motor mount doesn't align with the holes, is this correct or will I need to modify, or should I just use the stock motor mount?
Thanks

Apart from this is their any other issues I may encounter throughout the build or things I should and should not do, any help/advise would be appreciated?
The motor bulkhead will need some modification in order to work on the Exotek chassis. First you will need to drill a hole for the pin in the bulkhead then you will need to trim the tall part of the motor mount so that it will clear the chassis standoff. Also the motor mount for the aluminum rear bulkheads does not have enough room for the bigger pinions so that will need to be modified as well. I'll snap a pic of mine later on.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:44 PM   #3147
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im running the aluminum bulk heads and motor mount .. I cut off the post section and also cut out the motor mount for better gear selection has lots of space away from the chasis post I also cut off the pin . didnt want to drill the chassis ..
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:32 PM   #3148
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im running the aluminum bulk heads and motor mount .. I cut off the post section and also cut out the motor mount for better gear selection has lots of space away from the chasis post I also cut off the pin . didnt want to drill the chassis ..
Thanks guys, I've gone ahead a done what mb racer had done, my little dremel got quite a work out, i haven't cut the top deck post, though I may extent the top deck with some cf to joint onto the mount as well as the post which I will need to drill a new hole in the deck, builds comming along nicely.
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:33 PM   #3149
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The motor bulkhead will need some modification in order to work on the Exotek chassis. First you will need to drill a hole for the pin in the bulkhead then you will need to trim the tall part of the motor mount so that it will clear the chassis standoff. Also the motor mount for the aluminum rear bulkheads does not have enough room for the bigger pinions so that will need to be modified as well. I'll snap a pic of mine later on.
Thank pics would be nice to see how you've done it.
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:21 AM   #3150
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I don't remember if I ever thanked you guys for the advice. I dropped the ride height and added the 2 line sway bar, the lhs is out of spring kits and a didn't have time to switch shock oil. Still made the car easier to drive. Now to just get better at driving ha
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