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Old 07-17-2012, 08:26 AM   #3121
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Local race series rules vary but here the rules dictate a 21.5T motor so anything else is out.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:45 AM   #3122
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
I would strongly recommend much, much less motor than a 10t, especially in the FGX. 21.5 brushless is pretty much the unanimous motor of choice except for some of the guys around the globe running on huge tracks.
Stock up on upper decks, front wings, beef up those front arms, get the better kingpins.
You're gonna have a blast runnin F1.
I agree fn!
I ran a 17.5 at our local meet and tought it was good so the next meet I tryed a 21.5 and it was even better. I beat the lap record and the most laps with the 21.5
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:40 AM   #3123
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
Local race series rules vary but here the rules dictate a 21.5T motor so anything else is out.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
NewWestF1 is from Vancouver (Canada), not the U.S.
He may not have the same rules as you do.

So he is not out if he wants to run a 10T with a 18T or 19T pinion.
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:34 AM   #3124
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Originally Posted by Zedsispeho View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong.
NewWestF1 is from Vancouver (Canada), not the U.S.
He may not have the same rules as you do.

So he is not out if he wants to run a 10T with a 18T or 19T pinion.
Your results may vary, and I claim not to be an expert driver, but in my humble opinion, unless you have over a 150 ft. (50 meters) long straight (and a very flowing, realistic style track), anything faster than a competition spec 17.5 turn brushless motor/ESC setup is going to be WAY too fast for these F1 cars.

Sure, you can gear it down so that you have a high final drive ratio, but then you have to be very gentle with throttle application and/or have to turn the exponential setting very high on your transmitter and/or have to turn down initial current output on your ESC.

By the time you do all of the above, you are *maybe* using the power advantage of the motor on the last 1/2 to 1/3 of the longest straight of the track. Good luck on trying to get consistent lap times and hitting your braking marks and apexes as well.

In contrast, a 21.5 system (for U.S. domestic tracks) or 17.5 system (open timing/dynamic timing) for larger European and Southeast Asian tracks will allow you to hammer the throttle out of every corner and not have to gingerly tip-toe around throttle application--much easier car to drive.

I apologize if I seem to be ranting, but the only reason I post is that I live in California and race locally, but I have raced in Europe, Thailand and the Philippines and just simply offering an opinion so that people aren't frustrated by an out of control car if they are just starting in r/c F1 (on vacation-my wife wonders why I can have extra luggage for R/C stuff).
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:30 PM   #3125
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Hi,
I don't think that you are ranting

I may be wrong as I mostly run with my F1 on my small local track (short
straight roughly 30 meters).

However I believe that the reason why we see things differently is that you are using open/dynamic timing on your 21.5T and 17.5T motor and I don't.
Lately, during rc motorcycle world championship we have witnessed 17.5T motors with dynamic timing + turbo being smoother and still more powerful than 5.5t and 6.5T motor with fixed timing.
So I have to agree with you...

May be this is also something specific to my own motor and to the FGX
My "old" 9T EZRUN motor is fixed timing (and no turbo) and a lot less powerful than most current motors/esc with dynamic timing + turbo.
I run with other racer who own F104, F103 and F109 chassis and they cannot go anything lower than 13.5T otherwise they would be spinning at every corner (on asphalt).

The good thing about a chassis like the FGX is that you can pass it a lot more power without affecting the handling.
with a 9T motor my car still accelerate straight and I can hammer the throttle out of most corners.

I have to admit that 10 or 9T is probably the most powerful motor that you can put in this chassis on asphalt and that 17.5T with a big pinion will give a more drivable car on high grip tracks.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:48 PM   #3126
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Actually most of the F1 rules in the US are 21.5 blinky...only timing at the motor allowed. US tracks tend to be tighter than European tracks and with very hard track barriers so 21.5 blinky is more than fast enough for the confines of the track. European tracks tend to be bigger and more flowing with grass as the barrier for the track so they can handle a lot more motor than US tracks.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:53 PM   #3127
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Default type of wheel

What wheel can be mounted on the FGX chassis? brand and type.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:54 PM   #3128
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If I put a 10.5 in my FGX or even F104 I would wreck that shit.

I did however run an 8.5 at about 80% in my F103 on foams on both asphalt and carpet and that thing was nearly untouchable during last years UF1 Series that gave us the choice of running either "Realistic"/current F1 cars on rubber or "Open"/any cars on any tires.
I chose, and would choose again, F103 on foam tires. Nothing comes close.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:03 PM   #3129
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What wheel can be mounted on the FGX chassis? brand and type.
hpi f10 wheels and tamiya f201 wheels.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #3130
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lot's of great info from everyone thank you. i've put a couple of new motors on order so i can play around with set ups and optimize for the car .. great deal on these two so i may pick them up for shits and giggles Yeah Racing Hackmoto RC Motor 18T & 21T and thinking of adding a Yeah Racing Program Card (V.2) when it's in stock .

i don't want to sink a small fortune into the car too quick but i do want to build something driveable and fun while i learn ...
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:21 PM   #3131
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another question .. recommendations from FGX owners on LiPo batteries and a charger? what's the best for my bucks?
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:29 PM   #3132
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im bringing out the dead horse probably, but grab a stick and join in the fun...

whats the general consensus on sway bars,

in the front

in the rear

trying to keep my front inside tire (when cornering) from lifting. the car SCREAMS but this isnt dirt oval and this is the front tire, not rear lifting. has the 3* camber plate, 3* of caster PIT grooved soft tires and the "front tuning weight" for the nose. the car is a dream to drive and with a touch of timing may be able to start keeping up with the DD cars around where i live.
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:14 AM   #3133
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im bringing out the dead horse probably, but grab a stick and join in the fun...

whats the general consensus on sway bars,

in the front

in the rear

trying to keep my front inside tire (when cornering) from lifting. the car SCREAMS but this isnt dirt oval and this is the front tire, not rear lifting. has the 3* camber plate, 3* of caster PIT grooved soft tires and the "front tuning weight" for the nose. the car is a dream to drive and with a touch of timing may be able to start keeping up with the DD cars around where i live.
might try 3 thousand oil in the shocks . and stiffer springs . tire lifting is due to the excessive chassis roll in the rear .... also try 6mm ride height in the rear and 5mm in the front and #2 sway bar in the rear .
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Old 07-18-2012, 04:19 AM   #3134
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might try 3 thousand oil in the shocks . and stiffer springs . tire lifting is due to the excessive chassis roll in the rear .... also try 6mm ride height in the rear and 5mm in the front and #2 sway bar in the rear .
I confirm that lowering the rear height helps a lot.
You may also try stiffer springs on the rear shocks.
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Last edited by Zedsispeho; 07-18-2012 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 07-18-2012, 04:55 AM   #3135
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hpi f10 wheels and tamiya f201 wheels.
Thank you.

Alain.
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