ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

Ran my 3 Racing F1 today at my first F1 race here in sunny San Diego, and man was it fun, had a problem in the main and had to pull over and rip the front wing off since it broke and was dragging but still came back to win. The car seems to have way more corner speed and on power steering then the F103-F104's I was competing against. I was running a silver can with 23/35 gearing and after 5 min it came off at 135 and seemed just fast enough down the straight. I am Loving this car....

piawjojo

how to increase the front camber,and how many camber degree are you guy use.
thx

Zedsispeho

Hi Folks,
I have recently discovered this thread on FGX, and I have spent the last week to go through the 200+ pages.

I have found the setups from Mantisworx and Shano83 very useful (I run on asphalt only).

I have currently the following setup on my car (attached):


any comment is welcome as I am sure there is room for improvement on my setup.

Thank you for your help.

I can't wait to buy the new FGX chassis with IFS .

6376vette

You have to change out the upper arms to the link style upper arm. The parts necessary and now to do it are outlined earlier in this thread. There is some great information including the part numbers you need to order. Sorry I don't have the part numbers on me.

I am running 2.5 degrees of camber and it seems to do well.

shano83

iTrader: (8)

Ran a few packs through the fgx today using a ball diff and I found I liked it a lot more than the gear diff

mb racer

iTrader: (1)

you can always get the other camber/caster plates from 3racing .. they make them 1mm ,, 2mm,, and 3mm ...

huskerwr38

do you have a link where you bought yours?

shano83

iTrader: (8)

Here ya go
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...on_id=&pg_no=1

Also try rcmart.com

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

OK guys as i sit and stare at this car trying to figure out why it doesnt have the acceleration that it needs , something popped up! so follow me and if anyone can confirm this i would appreciate it. This boils down to gear reduction , i think! so if you are running a 35t spur and a 35 or higher pinion you lose relative Tq just from that alone. at our track the DD cars run around 2.3:1 and to get anywhere near that on the FGx you have to run upwards of a 38t pinion which is much bigger than the 35 spur. so what if you go with the bigger 39t spur? So i removed the belt system , installed a 39t spur with a 34t pinion which gives me a 3.1:1 ratio. In theory this may make the car slower on top end but SHOULD give it more midrange both from the lower ratio and the larger spur. now to compensate for the ratio i cranked the timing all the way up to maybe give me back some of the speed that i lost. on the street it seems much more responsive, runs cooler and i dont think i lost too much top end. In short it feels better. so any of you that run around 3.0:1 FDR's could you please throw in the 39spur 34pinion combo and let me know if you also feel a difference. Oh and the battery has been sitting in the car uncharged for about a mth so it may even be better with a full charge, charging up now!

Zedsispeho

Hi Marcus,
I am currently running a 39T Spur and 18T pinion (as recommend by the manual I think). My motor (Hobbywing Ezrun 9T) this makes it a FDR of 5.87. The motor is running hot pretty quickly.
I have also tried running a 39T Spur and 19T pinion (FDR 5.56) and the motor was running even hotter and I couldn't even run faster laps
This makes me think that the default gear ratio is a too long for the weight of the car .
I have recently bought a 17T pinion to verify this assumption and I will do the same you for motor timing.
I will let you know how it worked after the run of the weekend.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

I guess i should have mentioned that we run 21.5 no Boost class, in mod i have no power issues at all!

Zedsispeho

No matter which motor you use, if you increase the timing on your motor, you give it more max rotation and less torque.
You also lower its efficiency so it may reduce your runtime.
And if you run bigger FDR to get more acceleration it may reduce your run time further more.
So the car may probably run better for a shorter amount time.
This might be something you wish to monitor.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

The weight is there.
Even with all plastic parts (aluminum is heavier), carbon fiber chassis and upper deck (40g+ lighter), shorty pack. The car is still going to end up with around 1150-1200g.
With the ROAR regulation of 1020g, which is not hard for a pan car to achieve.
FGX being over 10% heavier will significantly reduce the power to weight ratio, especially considering the 21.5t motor has barely any power to begin with.

The regulation means FGX won't be a very competitive car against f104 in a long straight. But it will make up for it with the better handling, in the in-field, and in the dangerous fast sweepers.
For that, you can't gear it the same as F104 does, perhaps 10% lower top speed but keep the acceleration the same.
Most tracks barely have enough space for a top speed run, and some of them ends the straight with a full throttle sweeper. Most F103 and F104 will lift a bit(especially taking defensive or offensive lines while under pressure) in the sweeper but the fgx usually can get the top end loss back from there.

*BTW, any advantage of aluminum gears? I doubt there's any. All I know is that aluminum upgrades are usually over 30% heavier.

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

We finally had an FGX join our races. Qualified 7th out of 26. Not bad for a first time out.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Have you guys seen this one? Very pretty almost as pretty as BP Shadow's.

http://uf1series.com/_gallery/Cars_3.html