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Old 06-15-2012, 07:35 PM   #2941
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that plastic top deck breaks when you just look at them. several broke at the last UF1 race. I don't trust FGX alum or plastice anymore. just sayin
We're talking about the Exotek EFX-FGX top plate
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:37 PM   #2942
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I see why HPI soft front and medium rears seem to be a good combination...the soft front and medium rear feel like nearly the same compound. The medium fronts are rocks! I really wish companies would not list the front and rear as the same compound when they really are not...
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:45 PM   #2943
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Where exactly does the top deck break? Ill be getting my FGX next week, and Id like to try and reinforce the weak part on it before running the car.
Just behind the front suspension mounts at the step up. some guys will fiberglass same. simpler to carry spares because once u reinforce one place it breaks in another. Oh yeah the nose cone will pull out of the top deck or bend the bole and plastic. How do I know this? don' ask!

just run it stock. things will break then just update them as you go. I started out box stock last week. just got a hard hit on the right side. SMH!
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:49 PM   #2944
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We're talking about the Exotek EFX-FGX top plate
exactly, a complete Exotek conversion will be the next step. coming probably sooner that I want.

Looks like I'll be testing at the Tamiya Track in Aliso Viejo tomorrow for the Speedtechrc race next week ; )
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:51 PM   #2945
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thanks, I know my local track is getting most of the spares in stock. Id consider myself a clean driver, but I know ill still break the thing haha.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:32 PM   #2946
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Where exactly does the top deck break? Ill be getting my FGX next week, and Id like to try and reinforce the weak part on it before running the car.








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Old 06-16-2012, 12:24 AM   #2947
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@liljohn--that's a very helpful list that people running the FGX will find quite useful.

I have been researching what I would need to run an FGX reliably--aside from not crashing--I have independently come to more or less the same conclusion that unless you want to build this thing two or three times over, you will MINIMALLY want the following:

-Chassis conversion (Exotek addresses the issue of breaking off the front nose as well since the carbon upper/addition runs all the way to the tip, and also addresses servo clearance issues)
-Exotek Upper Adjustable Arms (keep stock parts as spares)
-Exotek Lower Reinforcements (if you break the lowers with this, you probably have more damage anyway)
-3 Racing Rear Bulkhead (stock motor mount with Exotek chassis--already gives you more clearance)
-3 Racing Diff Bearing Carriers


I left out all the tuning bits (springs, camber plates) just to get an idea of pricing for people that would be cross-shopping these with other kits with conversions.
I would agree. Those are the bare minimum upgrades for reliability. I would like to see just aluminum rear bulkheads without the integrated motor mount myself.
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:32 AM   #2948
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Where exactly does the top deck break? Ill be getting my FGX next week, and Id like to try and reinforce the weak part on it before running the car.
It breaks just after the steering rack screw. It causes the whole front end to float and be supported by only one screw, the one that goes through the center of the caster plate. The car will still finish a race if it breaks and doesn't become miss aligned. I ran one for over 10 minutes with a broken upper without knowing it. Luckily I didn't tear anything else up. The McKune chassis came out a week later and I got one for me and one for my son's car (really it's my second car). I'm a big fan of Troy's work. The Exotec is not a slouch either and a lot of development went into it. As I stated in the list, the McKune upper deck set can go right on a stock lower deck and is a quick fix.
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Old 06-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #2949
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Just got back from Tamiya, broke a top plate! car was handling good after C lightfoot set my rear suspension. on second session, I slid out on the sweeper on cold tires. clipped the boards. and broke at the infamouse section behind the arms. SMH. contemplating going with complete carbon exotech conversion. or another top plate
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:37 PM   #2950
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I see why HPI soft front and medium rears seem to be a good combination...the soft front and medium rear feel like nearly the same compound. The medium fronts are rocks! I really wish companies would not list the front and rear as the same compound when they really are not...
Yes indeed , myself and Shano have tested all the combo's in the heat and cold ......if u need a bit more entry steering than the HPI softs give u try pits grooved mediums with the gold (hard) front springs and HPI med or sort rears .......but if u do that put 2mm of wheel spacers in the front ....dialed

hth regards Mark Miller

btw Shano and myself hold the TQ times at our track on asphalt
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:35 PM   #2951
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Yes indeed , myself and Shano have tested all the combo's in the heat and cold ......if u need a bit more entry steering than the HPI softs give u try pits grooved mediums with the gold (hard) front springs and HPI med or sort rears .......but if u do that put 2mm of wheel spacers in the front ....dialed

hth regards Mark Miller

btw Shano and myself hold the TQ times at our track on asphalt
Cheers mark
Also try raising your rear ride height I'm running 9mm rear and aprox 5mm front.
I call it the door wedge
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Old 06-17-2012, 03:37 AM   #2952
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Well my current theory is a lot of the push in this car comes from the really stiff gear diff. I noticed the o-rings inside the diff have a crap load of drag on them so today I took out my gear diff and did a bunch of work on it. First off I used 1500 grit sand paper and sanded the out drive shafts smooth then polished them with Mothers. This seems to have cut the drag on the o-ring by at least 1/3 and maybe as much as 1/2. Then I also took out 1 spacer on the big bevel gears because they were way too tight. They feel like they will not slip which is a big concern and the diff is twice as smooth now as it had been. I'm planning on testing the changes tomorrow so long as work doesn't interferer.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:55 AM   #2953
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To FGX Rabbit owners: What bodies do you use? Will tamiya F104 bodies fit? I am looking to get a conversion kit for my FGX and would want to consider body options. Thanks.
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:26 AM   #2954
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Well my current theory is a lot of the push in this car comes from the really stiff gear diff. I noticed the o-rings inside the diff have a crap load of drag on them so today I took out my gear diff and did a bunch of work on it. First off I used 1500 grit sand paper and sanded the out drive shafts smooth then polished them with Mothers. This seems to have cut the drag on the o-ring by at least 1/3 and maybe as much as 1/2. Then I also took out 1 spacer on the big bevel gears because they were way too tight. They feel like they will not slip which is a big concern and the diff is twice as smooth now as it had been. I'm planning on testing the changes tomorrow so long as work doesn't interferer.
My diff was really smooth initially, it just kept leaking. finally cured that. Then after being taken out, I noticed a hitch probably from damage gears.

Have you tried a ball diff? I installed the ball diff with ceramic bearings. I immediately felt a difference. no more diffing out and appears to have more forward bite. The ball diff is has less friction overall and gearbox spins very freely. you also loose some weight too
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:17 AM   #2955
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To FGX Rabbit owners: What bodies do you use? Will tamiya F104 bodies fit? I am looking to get a conversion kit for my FGX and would want to consider body options. Thanks.
F104 bodies fit just fine. You have to do some custom trimming (not much or hard to do) around the front suspension and the rear suspension so things stay free and don't bind up.

The rabbit has been great to me.Very durable and pretty easy to tune. It is just as fast as all of the other cars at our track. I run really close to a very fast f104 and usually we finish on the same lap.
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