Revised 6/15/2012 - I thought it was time to repost as a lot of questions have been popping up. To repost, quote this and then remove the quote tags at the front and rear of the message, then edit the text. That way the formatting stays the same.
BP is now going to have many 3Racing options in stock as well as his excellent sticker sets. Please stay tuned.
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.
* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.
(a must for indoor)
- Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
- Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
- There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)
3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached Gear set
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers Damper Spring Set
Front spring set Front Spring Set
3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount Rear Bulkhead w/Motor Mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero) Rear Diff Bearing Carriers
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*) 0* toe plate 1* toe plate 2* toe plate 3* toe plate
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3* 1* camber plate 2* camber plate 3* camber plate
Full turnbuckle set Titanium Turnbuckle Set
Full A arm set
Steering knuckle set
King Pin set
Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion
(Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.
Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility
(Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.
Front lower arm braces
(in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms
- These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*
Front upper arms.
F104 Kingpins - they are 3mm longer and allow for better droop and ride height adjustment. They are also extremely strong. - thanks for the reminder Gadget!
F201 Rear Springs - Much stiffer than even the FGX option set.
front and 565
HPI Soft Front and Medium Rears for Outdoor - Thanks Mantis
Tamiya F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.
Various aftermarket rear shocks/dampers - too many to list.
Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.