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Old 05-06-2012, 08:46 PM   #2596
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Did you try the stiffest sway bar ?
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:01 PM   #2597
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Stiffen the rear springs, use thicker shock oil (I'm using 1000 diff oil on carpet) and reduce rear droop to start. this should make it much better.
1000cst or 1000wt?

My FGX was pushing bad on the weekend. Then a baring exploded... Lol.

I was using hpi mediums all around, out door asphalt. The car was good when the tires were cold. But after 1-2 warm up laps, and the first lap of the race, the rears came up to temp and it wouldn't turn. When I pulled it off after a full run the rears felt warm fronts still cool. So I'm guessing a softer front. I might order some rides this week to try med rear soft front. I also tired shimzu soft rear med front and the rear went off 1/3rd the way through the race and constantly wanted to rotate and it got worse.

Blue rear spring, kit front spring, kit rear oil, kit diff oil, 4.5mm front ride height, 7mm rear ride height, kit caster/camber block set to 3deg.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:16 PM   #2598
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1000cst or 1000wt?

My FGX was pushing bad on the weekend. Then a baring exploded... Lol.

I was using hpi mediums all around, out door asphalt. The car was good when the tires were cold. But after 1-2 warm up laps, and the first lap of the race, the rears came up to temp and it wouldn't turn. When I pulled it off after a full run the rears felt warm fronts still cool. So I'm guessing a softer front. I might order some rides this week to try med rear soft front. I also tired shimzu soft rear med front and the rear went off 1/3rd the way through the race and constantly wanted to rotate and it got worse.

Blue rear spring, kit front spring, kit rear oil, kit diff oil, 4.5mm front ride height, 7mm rear ride height, kit caster/camber block set to 3deg.
From what i was told all dif oils are rated the same so 1000 is the same across the board (relatively of course)



since the tracks temps are getting hotter the HPI mediums have been the best combo lately, if you go with soft fronts its probably not going to be very consistent I would add weight to the front, toe out and the lightest rear sway bar to get some heat into the fronts .

Shimitzus are in the closet til winter, they are horrible in the heat!

Also the Kit dif oil is too thick and that in itself will give you push, you only need a light oil (70wt) or AE black grease works very well too. stock shock oil is too light for asphalt. locally we are all using anywhere from 2k -4k ( i run 4k)
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:28 PM   #2599
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From what i was told all dif oils are rated the same so 1000 is the same across the board (relatively of course)



since the tracks temps are getting hotter the HPI mediums have been the best combo lately, if you go with soft fronts its probably not going to be very consistent I would add weight to the front, toe out and the lightest rear sway bar to get some heat into the fronts .

Shimitzus are in the closet til winter, they are horrible in the heat!

Also the Kit dif oil is too thick and that in itself will give you push, you only need a light oil (70wt) or AE black grease works very well too. stock shock oil is too light for asphalt. locally we are all using anywhere from 2k -4k ( i run 4k)
Don't forget the antisquat you recommended to me a couple of months ago. you have to have the aluminium rear bulkheads but it worked wonders in getting my car to steer on power.

to the new guys listen to mantis. He helped me tremendously in getting my front tires planted and to get the on power push under control. I run a slightly different setup because I'm on carpet but his recommendations worked wonders for the car.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:36 PM   #2600
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Don't forget the antisquat you recommended to me a couple of months ago. you have to have the aluminium rear bulkheads but it worked wonders in getting my car to steer on power.

to the new guys listen to mantis. He helped me tremendously in getting my front tires planted and to get the on power push under control. I run a slightly different setup because I'm on carpet but his recommendations worked wonders for the car.
Thanx!
im running the enemy (104) for the next couple of weeks for two reasons. One being that i need to find out where the FGX is lacking compared to it and the other is that i am working out the kinks on the IFS system, should be a beast when it gets back on track!
Judging from today, it seems like the FGX is lacking in midrange acceleration and tends to go flat after the first few minutes. The 104 likes a high tq motor and insane gear ratios. I think that a higher revving motor should work better in the FGX but not sure yet. on its last outing it ran better with a higher FDR (2.6) compared to the 2.1 that i have on the 104. More testing to come.....
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:52 PM   #2601
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Thanx!
im running the enemy (104) for the next couple of weeks for two reasons. One being that i need to find out where the FGX is lacking compared to it and the other is that i am working out the kinks on the IFS system, should be a beast when it gets back on track!
Judging from today, it seems like the FGX is lacking in midrange acceleration and tends to go flat after the first few minutes. The 104 likes a high tq motor and insane gear ratios. I think that a higher revving motor should work better in the FGX but not sure yet. on its last outing it ran better with a higher FDR (2.6) compared to the 2.1 that i have on the 104. More testing to come.....
When I ran the Novak ballistic the fgx felt flat in the midrange. With the reedy sonic it feels smooth and consistent throughout the range. Sometimes if I hit it just right it actually seems to pull hardest in the mid range. Power is the same from start to finish unless the temps get to 150+. Then the sonic seems to go flat where the ballistic never changed regardless of temps. Geared at a 3.05 for a tighter technical track.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:27 PM   #2602
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not having the fade or midrange problems others are having . I ran 3 ,, 10 minutes runs with a 2.5 fdr on tamiya's track sat for the UF1 race .. car keep consistant thru the all three runs . Im running reedy 21.5 with 28 degrees of timing .. I did find when testing my IFS . the car would fade at 4 min 30 sec mark . on carpet , sanded all the geardiff gears flat on the back sides and a little on the front sides . and made sure all gears were free on all pins . ran 1000 in the diff and its super free no drag .. temps went down about 10 degrees ran this at Tamiya and it was good to go . IFS very stable and consistant on the track ..
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:09 PM   #2603
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Any using the Hobbywing Xerun 21.5? Curious to know if requires chassis modifications to fit.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:11 PM   #2604
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Any using the Hobbywing Xerun 21.5? Curious to know if requires chassis modifications to fit.
Yes requires modification to the battery door post. I have a xerun 21.5 but I didnt do the modifications I just bought a thunder power instead.
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:46 AM   #2605
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The remainder of my bearing after the weekend. Resulted in a very "scale" run off into the grass with the wheel rolling away from the car.

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Old 05-07-2012, 07:02 AM   #2606
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hihi

at least you have 1 ball left so you can put it back together...

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Old 05-07-2012, 08:16 AM   #2607
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
When I ran the Novak ballistic the fgx felt flat in the midrange. With the reedy sonic it feels smooth and consistent throughout the range. Sometimes if I hit it just right it actually seems to pull hardest in the mid range. Power is the same from start to finish unless the temps get to 150+. Then the sonic seems to go flat where the ballistic never changed regardless of temps. Geared at a 3.05 for a tighter technical track.
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Originally Posted by mb racer View Post
not having the fade or midrange problems others are having . I ran 3 ,, 10 minutes runs with a 2.5 fdr on tamiya's track sat for the UF1 race .. car keep consistant thru the all three runs . Im running reedy 21.5 with 28 degrees of timing .. I did find when testing my IFS . the car would fade at 4 min 30 sec mark . on carpet , sanded all the geardiff gears flat on the back sides and a little on the front sides . and made sure all gears were free on all pins . ran 1000 in the diff and its super free no drag .. temps went down about 10 degrees ran this at Tamiya and it was good to go . IFS very stable and consistant on the track ..
Quote:
Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Thanx!
im running the enemy (104) for the next couple of weeks for two reasons. One being that i need to find out where the FGX is lacking compared to it and the other is that i am working out the kinks on the IFS system, should be a beast when it gets back on track!
Judging from today, it seems like the FGX is lacking in midrange acceleration and tends to go flat after the first few minutes. The 104 likes a high tq motor and insane gear ratios. I think that a higher revving motor should work better in the FGX but not sure yet. on its last outing it ran better with a higher FDR (2.6) compared to the 2.1 that i have on the 104. More testing to come.....
I reckon it's more to do with the motors/batteries than the car itself.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:30 AM   #2608
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Holy cow you guys are gearing TALL

We just came off the fastest track of the series at Tamiya
Most were running 2.8 to 3.0 with the 104

No fade, nominal temps +30 over ambient
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:00 AM   #2609
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Any using the Hobbywing Xerun 21.5? Curious to know if requires chassis modifications to fit.
This motor is kinda big in diameter. But as a non timing adjustable motor.... its fast. I have one... though it was in my F104 it will probably be going in my FGX when i decide to finish the build. I bought the TP 21.5 also... that motor is nasty if you can put the cheese down.
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:02 AM   #2610
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This motor is kinda big in diameter. But as a non timing adjustable motor.... its fast. I have one... though it was in my F104 it will probably be going in my FGX when i decide to finish the build. I bought the TP 21.5 also... that motor is nasty if you can put the cheese down.
Im running 2.38 on a tp with 30 degrees of timing. The motor never ot over 152... but it did for the first time smell like it had some electrical burning. Still ran fine the rest of the day.... but kinda made me nervous.

Ok, no more F104 talk from me..... Thread jack hault!!
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