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Old 05-01-2012, 12:03 PM   #2536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
Are you running the 35 tooth spur? Should be able to fit a 31, 32 pinion without grinding.
+1 Agreed, you have to get the fast gear set aackjw.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:06 PM   #2537
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More input please, quote and post with corrections!

Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Revised 4/24/2012

FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers
Front spring set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero)
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*)
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3*
Full turnbuckle set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*

Tires:
Shimizu 571 front and 572 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.


Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:21 PM   #2538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
Are you running the 35 tooth spur? Should be able to fit a 31, 32 pinion without grinding.
if u r refering to stock spur from the kit, that would be it. IF thats the case, i couldn't go more than 24t even with grinding.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:26 PM   #2539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aackjw View Post
if u r refering to stock spur from the kit, that would be it. IF thats the case, i couldn't go more than 24t even with grinding.
The stock spur is not a 35. The fast gear set comes with 35, 39, 41 and 43 tooth spurs. I think the stock one is a 40. The set makes a huge difference.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:45 PM   #2540
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Adding URLs

Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Revised 5/1/2012

FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached Gear set
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers Damper Spring Set
Front spring set Front Spring Set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount Rear Bulkhead w/Motor Mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero) Rear Diff Bearing Carriers
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*) 0* toe plate 1* toe plate 2* toe plate 3* toe plate
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3* 1* camber plate 2* camber plate 3* camber plate
Full turnbuckle set Titanium Turnbuckle Set

3Racing Spares:
Full A arm set
Steering knuckle set
King Pin set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*

Tires:
Shimizu 561 front and 565 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.


Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
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Last edited by liljohn1064; 05-01-2012 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:47 PM   #2541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
The stock spur is not a 35. The fast gear set comes with 35, 39, 41 and 43 tooth spurs. I think the stock one is a 40. The set makes a huge difference.
+1 definitely get te fast gear set and install the 35 tooth spur. Unfortunately the 35 tooth is only available in the set and not individually. This should give you the speed you are looking for.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:52 PM   #2542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightfoot View Post
So I took it apart for a complete break down, and it's definitely a motor problem... I can barely turn the motor shaft with my hand... guess the diff was fine all along...
I should of looked further into your car and motor .Ive had sensor wires slow a motor responce to throttle input off the line . hope its all good for uf1 at tamiya .. ill buy back the sensor wire from ya ..If you get another motor . Ill go thru your old one and make it new again ..

Looved running with you Lightfoot . and Cuda sunday .. Had a blast !!
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:11 PM   #2543
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what are the advantages of the Aluminium Motor Mount & Rear Bulkhead. is it a worth wile upgrade.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:23 PM   #2544
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I think it is . The plactic bulk heads i had with the kit were terriable at best warped along with too much work to get rid if all the binding on the bearings . found the diff runs more ture and free . really helps my car with rotation and very quick starts off the line ..Bad part is grinding alot of material to get more gear on the motor .also helped with chassis tweak in the rear of the chassis .. still its worth it .
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:42 PM   #2545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Adding URLs
Good stuff!

Only issue is Shimizu 571 front and 572 rear do not work with the FGX. These are 104 tires.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:09 PM   #2546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Good stuff!

Only issue is Shimizu 571 front and 572 rear do not work with the FGX. These are 104 tires.
Doh! Those should be 561 and 565! Fixed and added some more.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:18 PM   #2547
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Default FGX starter guide:

Revised 5/1/2012

FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached Gear set
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers Damper Spring Set
Front spring set Front Spring Set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount Rear Bulkhead w/Motor Mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero) Rear Diff Bearing Carriers
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*) 0* toe plate 1* toe plate 2* toe plate 3* toe plate
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3* 1* camber plate 2* camber plate 3* camber plate
Full turnbuckle set Titanium Turnbuckle Set

3Racing Spares:
Full A arm set
Steering knuckle set
King Pin set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*

Tires:
Shimizu 561 front and 565 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.


Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:26 PM   #2548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Revised 5/1/2012

FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached Gear set
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers Damper Spring Set
Front spring set Front Spring Set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount Rear Bulkhead w/Motor Mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero) Rear Diff Bearing Carriers
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*) 0* toe plate 1* toe plate 2* toe plate 3* toe plate
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3* 1* camber plate 2* camber plate 3* camber plate
Full turnbuckle set Titanium Turnbuckle Set

3Racing Spares:
Full A arm set
Steering knuckle set
King Pin set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*

Tires:
Shimizu 561 front and 565 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.


Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
The other thing I have found is that the 3 racing Tai chi 21.5 motor fits really well with no grinding. With a standard motor mount you can fit a 30t pinion and maybe a 31.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:49 PM   #2549
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Originally Posted by Supa_18's View Post
The other thing I have found is that the 3 racing Tai chi 21.5 motor fits really well with no grinding. With a standard motor mount you can fit a 30t pinion and maybe a 31.
Nice find! 3 Racing TaiChi 21.5, take a look! I wonder if its headed for approvals?
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:06 AM   #2550
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Here is my FGX with belt drive
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