Originally Posted by MDRTales
So what are the most popular chassis upgrades and what are their pros and cons thanks!
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.
McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.
(a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)
3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers
Front spring set
3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero)
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*)
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3*
Full turnbuckle set
Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.
Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell.
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Shimizu 571 front and 572 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.
Exotek delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.
Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.