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Old 04-23-2012, 10:31 AM   #2416
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The stock dampers are good too.

But, you have to disassemble the damper bodies out of the box and make sure they are completely deburred on all plastic and metal surfaces and that the O rings aren't pinched, ripped or torn. Put them back together with Associated green slime. They do not leak if you follow this advice (which is not mine BTW).
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:37 AM   #2417
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
.... I really like how these shocks feel, may even try and put them in the rear.
[/IMG]
Marcus,

I like the spring loaded damper tubes. Did you make them yourself? What weight tube friction grease are you going to try?
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:00 AM   #2418
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
The stock dampers are good too.

But, you have to disassemble the damper bodies out of the box and make sure they are completely deburred on all plastic and metal surfaces and that the O rings aren't pinched, ripped or torn. Put them back together with Associated green slime. They do not leak if you follow this advice (which is not mine BTW).
Wish that worked with mine. Did that three times. Even installed new o rings and spacers No luck. Still leaked. Had to file down a pair of spacers to make some thin shims. It made the spring clips a b**** to install but the extra compression on the o rings finally stopped the leaking. BTW I was losing 50% of the shock oil in one heat race. Not a small leak. I am going to run my super compressed o rings until they wear out then replace with different shocks.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:13 AM   #2419
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Wish that worked with mine. Did that three times. Even installed new o rings and spacers No luck. Still leaked. Had to file down a pair of spacers to make some thin shims. It made the spring clips a b**** to install but the extra compression on the o rings finally stopped the leaking. BTW I was losing 50% of the shock oil in one heat race. Not a small leak. I am going to run my super compressed o rings until they wear out then replace with different shocks.
That stinks. I thought you had completely beat that issue. And it's all out the lower cap? I wonder if another company's rebuild kit would work?
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:05 PM   #2420
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That stinks. I thought you had completely beat that issue. And it's all out the lower cap? I wonder if another company's rebuild kit would work?
It finally quit leaking with the extra shim. It was a pain to get the retainers installed but they finally went together. Guess it took about an hour or so to get the shims filed down correctly. Without measuring my guess is that my shock bodies are machined too deep and will not allow the o rings to compress properly. Funny thing is I have another set that hasn't leaked a drop since new. I didn't even tear those down to clean up the flash on the spacers.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:54 PM   #2421
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Exotek FGX - Delrin Arm Set is available at TQ.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...t.asp?s_sort=3


FYI, Thanks.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #2422
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Hey guys popping in my first ever post here, got my FGX the other month not had time to run it yet here in the UK (i have no rush as its currently not legal for racing)

I read the first 20 pages then skipped a bit, did i miss much lol?

I am now really looking forward to giving it a run, i have HPI wheels and tyres on mine, anybody run them?
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:18 PM   #2423
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Originally Posted by dazzler-pws View Post
Hey guys popping in my first ever post here, got my FGX the other month not had time to run it yet here in the UK (i have no rush as its currently not legal for racing)

I read the first 20 pages then skipped a bit, did i miss much lol?

I am now really looking forward to giving it a run, i have HPI wheels and tyres on mine, anybody run them?
Welcome to the forum. I'm new myself and trying to source a FGX in the uk. Where did you purchase yours?
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:25 AM   #2424
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So what are the most popular chassis upgrades and what are their pros and cons thanks!
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:18 AM   #2425
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Action Model centre has them in stock.

Where will you be racing yours?
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:16 AM   #2426
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Originally Posted by MDRTales View Post
So what are the most popular chassis upgrades and what are their pros and cons thanks!
FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers
Front spring set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero)
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*)
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3*
Full turnbuckle set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)

Tires:
Shimizu 571 front and 572 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.
Exotek delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.

Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
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Last edited by liljohn1064; 04-24-2012 at 09:39 AM. Reason: missed a couple proofreading things.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:24 AM   #2427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers
Front spring set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero)
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*)
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3*
Full turnbuckle set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility:
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)

Tires:
Shimizu 571 front and 572 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.
Exotek delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.

Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
Thanks helps alot!
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:07 AM   #2428
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I would like to add that the reedy sonic will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance but I have run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:24 AM   #2429
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Revised 4/24/2012

FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers
Front spring set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero)
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*)
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3*
Full turnbuckle set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*

Tires:
Shimizu 571 front and 572 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.


Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:03 PM   #2430
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero)
The stock ones are cammed too aren't they? Mine look like they are. But mine don't sit well in the bulkhead so are the ones from the Zero different?
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