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Old 03-31-2012, 12:51 AM   #2221
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Originally Posted by texastc View Post
your doing it wrong
Amen. Lol.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:56 AM   #2222
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No, this page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/3-Raci...6510613?ref=ts Look for David Hope(that's me)

It is 3 Racing, but it is a different page. Strange
Went there and made a comment also on you post. We can only hope they read it and do something.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:01 AM   #2223
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
+1 FGX has adjustable camber and caster.

With the v2 arms I haven't seen many broken cars as of late. I myself have never broken the front arms even with all the laps I've put in. King pins are another story.
You need to catch a board with the front tire at an odd angle. Your superior driving skills may not allow you to do that.

Seriously, I'm happy to have those lower braces in. I think the piano wire worked really well and this should work a lot better.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:46 PM   #2224
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Ready for battle in the morning! Lot of smack talk this week, so its about to go DOWN!!


I havent posted for a while, been testing and testing and testing on the EXO and the MD chassis. Unfortunately i could not get either one of them to work very well on asphalt/concrete, to keep it simple the lower chassis is just too stiff.
I put about 200 laps on the MCkune and about 20 on the EXO (only because it had the same characteristics). I tried Full MD,stock lower/MD top and MDbottom/stock top.
Full MD:
lack of rear grip
severe oversteer
only way to get it around the track was with hard fronts and had to use alot brake to get it to turn. I was able to get a faster quick lap than the previous week but not near as consistent was 1 lap down from my TQ the week before. went from a 12.2 fast lap to an 11.9 fastlap.
couple of nights after that went to a treated asphalt track and i had nothing but issues and i TRIED everything" three different difs, two pair of shocks. spring combos RC adjustment etc etc.
STOCK LOWER/MD TOP:
This combo was decent but for some reason there was a tweak and i could not get rid of it I had to have 1.5 turns on the right shock to get it to balance, was strange.
MD BOTTOM/STOCK TOP:
over steered even worse as expected

EXO FUll chassis:
felt about the same, it would turn in aggressively and then kind of push out mid to exit which made it a little easier to drive but i dont like my car to move around very much in the turns especially on asphalt.
Another local has this chassis and experienced the same issues.

So i go back to the stock chassis and it just feels much better.

I pm'd Troy but didnt get a response, I have not contacted MikeR yet but will. But listen guys we have over 30 members now here in houston, New F1 dedicated website ( www.HAF1R.com ) we race F1 every thursday and every sunday on three different track that are all Asphalt! Would love to have a chassis that is designed for asphalt. I simply do not have the time to make my own anymore so PLEASE help us out!
PLEASE REMEMBER THAT MY TESTING WAS DONE ON ASPHALT, WE ALL KNOW HOW WELL THEY PERFORM ON CARPET WHICH IS WHAT THEY WERE DESIGNED TO DO, THESE ARE JUST MY EXPERIENCEs, DONT WANT TO PISS ANYONE OFF!
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:39 PM   #2225
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Well I just started my FGX-EFX build finally today Now originally I wanted to try mounting the battery cross-wise with a shorty pack as shown in the pictures but it appears the carbon brace for that mounting configuration is shorter than the one that comes in the kit. I've e-mailed ExoTek on that so hope to have that ironed out soon. Anyway that's not what I'm posting about...while mucking about with the battery configuration I noticed it looks like there might just be enough room to run the servo flat on the chassis with the shorty pack with the in-line configuration...I know a lot of people have moved the battery forward and put the ESC behind it but I was wondering if anyone had tried moving the battery back and put the servo in front? Is there enough room?
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:06 PM   #2226
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Well I just started my FGX-EFX build finally today Now originally I wanted to try mounting the battery cross-wise with a shorty pack as shown in the pictures but it appears the carbon brace for that mounting configuration is shorter than the one that comes in the kit. I've e-mailed ExoTek on that so hope to have that ironed out soon. Anyway that's not what I'm posting about...while mucking about with the battery configuration I noticed it looks like there might just be enough room to run the servo flat on the chassis with the shorty pack with the in-line configuration...I know a lot of people have moved the battery forward and put the ESC behind it but I was wondering if anyone had tried moving the battery back and put the servo in front? Is there enough room?
Hay mate, I think exotek make an option part to run the batter across ways. Also yes you are able to run the servo longways
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:39 PM   #2227
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Yeah I was wondering that because it looks like it was part of the kit and they don't list it as an option part...I'll probably end up cutting my own.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:04 AM   #2228
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i have the 43t spur and 18t pinion on a silver can, it seems not to have enough top speed what pinion/spur combo do you guys recommend ?
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:42 AM   #2229
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Originally Posted by aceinthesky View Post
i have the 43t spur and 18t pinion on a silver can, it seems not to have enough top speed what pinion/spur combo do you guys recommend ?
Get the fast gear set if you don't already have it and use the smaller spur. Then try 30-35ish pinions.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:22 AM   #2230
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Marcus, I read your comment about your asphalt testing of both the McKune and Exotek chassis, and I'm wondering with respects to both, what size lipo were you using in each? Was it a "full size" pack, or one of the new "shorty" packs? I think the Exotek chassis actually gives you the most options as to battery placement, especially if you use a "shorty" pack.

Have you considered trying the "shorty" moved all the way forward with the electrics behind to cure your cornering issues? Or how about put the pack to the rear with electrics up front; or put the pack cross-ways in the rear(only the Exotek allows for this position) Either way, with both chassis I would experiment with a variety of battery sizes and placements before I passed judgement on either chassis. Just my two cents.

If none of that works, maybe either McKune or Exotek could make a thinner main chassis plate. I think they both are 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 2.0mm would be "thin" enough to provide some chassis flex to improve mechanical grip on asphalt. Again, just my two cents.

Last edited by Team Lotus; 04-01-2012 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:40 AM   #2231
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Originally Posted by texastc View Post
Get the fast gear set if you don't already have it and use the smaller spur. Then try 30-35ish pinions.
That may be a little too aggressive for a silver can. I smoked one at 31 pinion and 35 spur. Try 25 pinion 35 spur, watch the heat and slowly add teeth to the pinion
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:42 AM   #2232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aceinthesky View Post
i have the 43t spur and 18t pinion on a silver can, it seems not to have enough top speed what pinion/spur combo do you guys recommend ?
With a silver can shoot for a 5:1 final drive ratio then add teeth to the pinion until it starts getting over 170 for a full run. If you can, get a 21.5 brushless setup and give that a try. Right now you're geared for 6.474 FDR. (43/18) * 2.71 = 6.474

Try a 39/21, FDR of 5.03 and temp. Keep adding teeth to the pinion approaching a taller 4.0 from there if the motor is still good on temp. If already too hot take away a couple teeth and keep going down until the temps drop. I'm assuming you have the fast spur gear set: 35, 39, 41, 43. My Tamiyas typically run somewhere in the 3.5 to 5.5 range depending on track size.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:07 AM   #2233
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As far as brushless go, the sweet spot on the Thunder Power Z3-R is really different. It appears they don't even like pinions over 30 with the 35. I'm running a 4.something. With my old Novak SS 21.5 from my old TA cars I can run a much higher pinion for some reason. Even with the timing cranked, it can handle a 3.5 FDR and lower easily. I was running 2.0 in the F103. It would never get hot, but then it sounded like it was still trying to rev up for ever.

We should start posting more of what we find for motor and gearing setups!

I'm running
TP Z3-R
30* on the endbell
35/21
Temps around 140 at 8 minutes

Excellent infield speed and maxing out on acceleration at about 50 feet. I'd add a couple more teeth and/or 15* more timing for a longer straight.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:47 PM   #2234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Lotus View Post
Marcus, I read your comment about your asphalt testing of both the McKune and Exotek chassis, and I'm wondering with respects to both, what size lipo were you using in each? Was it a "full size" pack, or one of the new "shorty" packs? I think the Exotek chassis actually gives you the most options as to battery placement, especially if you use a "shorty" pack.

Have you considered trying the "shorty" moved all the way forward with the electrics behind to cure your cornering issues? Or how about put the pack to the rear with electrics up front; or put the pack cross-ways in the rear(only the Exotek allows for this position) Either way, with both chassis I would experiment with a variety of battery sizes and placements before I passed judgement on either chassis. Just my two cents.

If none of that works, maybe either McKune or Exotek could make a thinner main chassis plate. I think they both are 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 2.0mm would be "thin" enough to provide some chassis flex to improve mechanical grip on asphalt. Again, just my two cents.
I run a shorty all the way forward with ESC in the middle, thats how i normally run. didnt matter on either chassis. they are just too stiff simple as that, need thinner upper and lower decks to be effective on asphalt.

Today I smashed the track record with the stock chassis! last week i went 11.9 record was 11.6 today i went 11.2 with about a dozen 11.5's car was AMAZING. I will get into it further later but there has been a funky tweaks in the chassis that comes from moving the post to make clearance for the bigger pinions. I made a neat little adapter plate and the tweak is now gone. For the first time i actually got the car to scale within 5gs with just weight only took about a 1/4 turn on the left shock to get the car dead even! Car was a dream! i also made some setup wheels which also made a difference with alignment.


LEsson for the day: CORNER WEIGHT, SCALE AND BALANCE YOUR CAR!
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:07 AM   #2235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
As far as brushless go, the sweet spot on the Thunder Power Z3-R is really different. It appears they don't even like pinions over 30 with the 35. I'm running a 4.something. With my old Novak SS 21.5 from my old TA cars I can run a much higher pinion for some reason. Even with the timing cranked, it can handle a 3.5 FDR and lower easily. I was running 2.0 in the F103. It would never get hot, but then it sounded like it was still trying to rev up for ever.

We should start posting more of what we find for motor and gearing setups!

I'm running
TP Z3-R
30* on the endbell
35/21
Temps around 140 at 8 minutes

Excellent infield speed and maxing out on acceleration at about 50 feet. I'd add a couple more teeth and/or 15* more timing for a longer straight.
I'm running
Reedy sonic 21.5
Novak edge
32* on end bell
35/34
Temps 50*c

Our track has flowing infield and long straight leading to a right hand sweeper.
I have excellent infield speed and excellent acceleration maxing out approx 2/3 down the straight.
It's just as fast as another racer running a 13t in his fgx but more bottom end.
There is .1 of a sec difference between the 2.
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