3 racing new F1
#1996
I just threw the thickest one on for the final and was surprised by the improvement. Next time out , i'll pop a lighter one on and see what the difference is.
A shorty lipo is also on my shopping list, to move more static weight forward.
Track I race on is tight , indoors , textured concrete, ,with street circuit style bumps ( adds very nice character) that can move the car around a bit.
The traction is good and only medium shimizu tyres can be used up front, the softs get very snappy mid-corner after a few laps.
A shorty lipo is also on my shopping list, to move more static weight forward.
Track I race on is tight , indoors , textured concrete, ,with street circuit style bumps ( adds very nice character) that can move the car around a bit.
The traction is good and only medium shimizu tyres can be used up front, the softs get very snappy mid-corner after a few laps.
#1997
A little birdie tells me I have a parcel waiting for me when I get home...
Any build tips?
Any build tips?
#1998
Here is some pictures of mine almost finished.
#1999
Tech Initiate
i also prefer medium tyres that have good balance between cornering and road grapping
#2000
Hi,
my diff is leaking its oil when I power at high speed. I already replaced the gearcase with a new one. I also pushed the screws as far in as possible.
I use an GM Sport 13.5T motor.
What can I do to stop the diff from leaking?
regards
Oortael
my diff is leaking its oil when I power at high speed. I already replaced the gearcase with a new one. I also pushed the screws as far in as possible.
I use an GM Sport 13.5T motor.
What can I do to stop the diff from leaking?
regards
Oortael
#2001
Tech Regular
Don't overfill it, and don't over tighten the screws that hold it together.
#2005
Thank you. I'll try your suggestions and give you feedback when Im done.
#2006
Tech Regular
iTrader: (45)
I followed these instructions
search Google for "3 racing diff" and it should be the first link.
-i'm not allowed to post links yet.
and now no leak and a very smooth diff.
I couldn't find a M2.6x0.45 tap but I was able to use a M2.5x0.45 with similar result.
#2007
So I've mostly finished the build, and I've run into the same problems as every body else with the motor hitting the upper deck mount. I've had a look through but couldn't find the pics of what people have done to modify it.
I'm also thinking a lot of the problem is the tekin redline I'm using being to fat in the back of the motor. By the looks of it, motors like the Reedy Sonic, Team Powers, Gens Ace... with the tapered rear and smaller timing adjustment ring should fit a lot better. Can anyone confirm this?
Gearing wise, I'm not sure where to start either (other then the biggest pinion I can fit right now being 18T...). Large track, long straight, 17.5 Blinky.
I'm also thinking a lot of the problem is the tekin redline I'm using being to fat in the back of the motor. By the looks of it, motors like the Reedy Sonic, Team Powers, Gens Ace... with the tapered rear and smaller timing adjustment ring should fit a lot better. Can anyone confirm this?
Gearing wise, I'm not sure where to start either (other then the biggest pinion I can fit right now being 18T...). Large track, long straight, 17.5 Blinky.
#2008
Tech Master
So I've mostly finished the build, and I've run into the same problems as every body else with the motor hitting the upper deck mount. I've had a look through but couldn't find the pics of what people have done to modify it.
I'm also thinking a lot of the problem is the tekin redline I'm using being to fat in the back of the motor. By the looks of it, motors like the Reedy Sonic, Team Powers, Gens Ace... with the tapered rear and smaller timing adjustment ring should fit a lot better. Can anyone confirm this?
Gearing wise, I'm not sure where to start either (other then the biggest pinion I can fit right now being 18T...). Large track, long straight, 17.5 Blinky.
I'm also thinking a lot of the problem is the tekin redline I'm using being to fat in the back of the motor. By the looks of it, motors like the Reedy Sonic, Team Powers, Gens Ace... with the tapered rear and smaller timing adjustment ring should fit a lot better. Can anyone confirm this?
Gearing wise, I'm not sure where to start either (other then the biggest pinion I can fit right now being 18T...). Large track, long straight, 17.5 Blinky.
#2009
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
I moved the battery door post forward 8mm and ground the upper deck to make room.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9956327-post841.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9956327-post841.html
#2010
So I've mostly finished the build, and I've run into the same problems as every body else with the motor hitting the upper deck mount. I've had a look through but couldn't find the pics of what people have done to modify it.
I'm also thinking a lot of the problem is the tekin redline I'm using being to fat in the back of the motor. By the looks of it, motors like the Reedy Sonic, Team Powers, Gens Ace... with the tapered rear and smaller timing adjustment ring should fit a lot better. Can anyone confirm this?
Gearing wise, I'm not sure where to start either (other then the biggest pinion I can fit right now being 18T...). Large track, long straight, 17.5 Blinky.
I'm also thinking a lot of the problem is the tekin redline I'm using being to fat in the back of the motor. By the looks of it, motors like the Reedy Sonic, Team Powers, Gens Ace... with the tapered rear and smaller timing adjustment ring should fit a lot better. Can anyone confirm this?
Gearing wise, I'm not sure where to start either (other then the biggest pinion I can fit right now being 18T...). Large track, long straight, 17.5 Blinky.
http://www.haf1r.com/index.php?/blog...modifications/