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Old 03-03-2012, 03:12 AM   #1816
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi All, I shipped out the first shipments of FGX chassis and noticed quite a few familiar names. I just want to thank all you guys for the support all these years!

Happy Racing

Mike
I can't hardly wait to get the chassis kit. If fate would deliver it on the weekend (unlikely), I could get it put together for practice day at WCRC on monday! Mike, Thank you for all your work!
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:06 AM   #1817
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If you have gone through that many motors you have something else going on. You may have to move the upper deck post to get clearance but I suggest you look at other causes too.

What are your temps and have you opened the body intake ducts?
The first new ballistic lasted 1 sec. and the second lasted three packs with temps @ 110*, the SS and sonic hit the post. Air ducts front and back are open. Does anyone know if the LRP X12 fits.
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:16 AM   #1818
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The first new ballistic lasted 1 sec. and the second lasted three packs with temps @ 110*, the SS and sonic hit the post. Air ducts front and back are open. Does anyone know if the LRP X12 fits.
You may have to move the post. The x12 will have the same problem.
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:18 PM   #1819
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Hey together,

I got my mit this weekend. It look quite nice except the of the wrench to turn the turnbuckles. Imho it has to much play. What wrench is more suitable?

I also noticed hat there is no pinion. What size is recommended for medium speed tracks with many s-corners?

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Old 03-03-2012, 06:16 PM   #1820
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Rabbit conversion for sale in the for sale section of all places
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:59 PM   #1821
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No ETA yet on the arms. On the good side I have been running the same set since I made them. On the bad side I have been completely focused on getting out the chassis kit.

I am working on another solution as well and hopefully will have news soon.

Troy

Hi Troy, any update on the front arms? I know that you said that you are working on "another solution" as well, but frankly, I like the arms you already made and showed. They look adjustable and strong; plus they look more "scale" than the various link type arms I've seen. I hope whatever you do, that you make them look as "real" as possible!
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:06 PM   #1822
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New prototype front arms just off the mill. Allows you to adjust camber without changing caster.
Attached Thumbnails
3 racing new F1-md-fgx-arm-pic-1.jpg


I like THESE arms from McKune! Much better looking than the link type ones I've seen! But I also like the prototype arms that Mantisworx showed as well.
Attached Thumbnails
3 racing new F1-md-fgx-arm-pic-1.jpg  

Last edited by Team Lotus; 03-03-2012 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:08 PM   #1823
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Front arms i made a few weeks ago, similar to Troy's but i made a carbon cover that covers the turnbuckles!
I made these in preparation for a double A arm front suspension I am going to make if 3racing doesnt release theirs soon.


Also made some rears today that moved the link mount backwards 2.5mm for more clearance.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:10 PM   #1824
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Those are very nice Marcus!! I like how you covered the turnbuckles to make them more realistic!
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:15 PM   #1825
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Those are very nice Marcus!! I like how you covered the turnbuckles to make them more realistic!

Thanx! just playing around!
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:31 PM   #1826
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Thanx! just playing around!
Play around with another set, see ya next Sunday. Should have my mckune chassis and 190mm F1R with me. And perhaps an F109 if I keep tinkering around with it.
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:59 PM   #1827
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Anyone have any problems with screws stripping out? I have 3 screws stripped out, with 2 of them sticking half way out. I'm not sure what to do at this point.



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Old 03-03-2012, 10:11 PM   #1828
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I stripped screws like crazy. I just looked them up in the manual and ordered replacements from a-main.

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Anyone have any problems with screws stripping out? I have 3 screws stripped out, with 2 of them sticking half way out. I'm not sure what to do at this point.



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Old 03-04-2012, 12:17 AM   #1829
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Yeh the stripped screw heads suck bigtime!
Cheezy screws combined with super tight tolerances and the fact that button head and flat head screws have shallow hexed holes makes it easy to strip em out.
All you can do is pre thread the holes with a quality socket head cap screw, like a motor screw and some grease. I've found that actually tapping the hole takes out too much material and makes it easy to strip the threaded hole.

To remove a screw with a stripped head you really only have a few choices.
Best choice is to have a quality drill bit and an E Z Out. Done deal.
Another is to Dremel a slot if you have access to the screw and a Dremel.
Or drill the head off the screw and grab the stud, again, if you have access to the screw.
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:22 AM   #1830
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Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
We only make one chassis kit. It has has 2 different stiffener plates for the top deck that come with it.

Troy
thank you for your reply. i like to look at your chassis design.it looks very sensible.i have a question for the rear camber link arm.is the kit bracket(?) better that a graphite version or a turnbuckle?
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