aarivers

iTrader: (13)

Okay so I got to practice for a little while with the FGX tonight. Still pushes like a freight train even with more weight added up front. I didn't get a chance to change the rear links before I broke the stock servo saver, I didn't have a replacement to swap in. So 6376vette do you have any pics of your car, I'd like to see your whole rabbit setup and also what servo saver are you using? Hopefully I can find a replacement before the race at One Lug this weekend.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

We're doing it again!

For those of you in SoCal or can come down, we are having an open sedan chassis club race at the famed Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. This is a great chance for you FGX drivers to drive on a track that is normally reserved for Tamiyas only!

Speedtech RC presents The Grand Club Race at the world famous Tamiya Raceway. Join us on Saturday, March 31st, 2012 for this special one day racing event. Open TC chassis, open tires, open battery, open body, and tons o fun.

Pre-registration is now open. Preregistration price is $15 for your first class and $10 each additional. Sign ups on race day will be $20 for your first class, $10 additional.

Sign up early to reserve your spot. We will be capping the # of racers and # of heats due to time constraints.

For more details and to sign up for racing... click here.

RCtech thread here

6376vette

Slow connection at the house. I took pics tonight and will post them tomorrow.

I'm using a kimbrough servo saver. Not sure of the part number but it is the black one that is the same size as the stock one. I tried the tamiya but didn't like it much.

There are a few things I did to get rid of a lot of the on power push.

1. Installed a shorty lipo as far forward as I could.
2. switched to a firmer rear spring with 70 wt shock oil.
3. Added the aluminium motor mount so I could add 1.5mm anti squat(this helped the most)
4. Adjusted the steering arms so they were straight out from the servo to the wheels. This adjusted the Ackerman to get a more stable front end.
5. Made the upper links parallel to the lower arms.
6. Shimmed the front wheels out 3 mm on each spindle. As much as you can get and still get a wheel nut to bite. Had to switch to unflanged nuts. This was more to keep the inside tire down.
7. Adjusted to 1mm rear droop.
8. Removed the rear sway bar.
9. Changed the diff oil to 80wt shock oil
10 soft tamiya springs up front with bearing oil on the kingpins.
11. Experimented with tires and traction compound. For the compound I'm using a full rear tire and 1/4 to 1/2 a tire on the front depending on track conditions. Never more than 1/2 or you start rolling over.
12. Added the tamiya aluminium camber plate. Running 2.5 degrees up front and 3.0 on the rear
13. Set front toe to 0.5 degrees out
14. Rear toe set at 1.0 in

I'm using the grooved pit shimizu tires. Soft rear and medium or soft up front depending on conditions. My home track will get really sticky late in the racing so I will change to the mediums so I don't traction roll.

I have also found this car likes to be at 6mm ride height or the chassis bottoms out and causes problems. The ride height made a big difference too.

I have my esc set for a little drag brake for corner entry and I'm using a fairly mild minimum drive (punch control) on the throttle. My rear end is pretty sticky now so I'm going to try the esc for a little more aggression out of the turns but this may add a push as well.

Most of all I just played and experimented asked for help on this forum I don't have the whole car figured out yet but it has come a long way. Its finally a consistent car that handles the same from the first lap to the last.

If you have any questions please ask and I will do my best to answer.

By the way I haven't needed to add any weight to the front of the car but moving the battery weight forward did help.

6376vette

Here are some pics. I tried to get some shots of the rear arm angle as the car sits but it was a little tough. Hopefully they turned out ok. Sorry for the slightly messy electronics. I've been meaning to reorganize but I've been having too much fun driving. If you want to see anything specific let me know and I will try to post it tonight. Also sorry for the carpet. Car hasn't been cleaned since last weekend.

I will be at one lug this weekend as well. We are trying to get there Friday night for a little practice before the race so maybe we can get together and try to sort out some of your pushing problems.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Maybe run F1 with some of the big VTA events? Call it the Realistic Racing RC Rubber Regionals. We all seem to be following the same threads. Maybe we should just start a Realistic Racing thread? Make Myron drive an F1 car.

aarivers

iTrader: (13)

You da man 6367vette! This info helps immensely. Is that the F104 front end? I have one in the box of parts I got with the car and was thinking about switching to it from the F103 front that's on the car. I'm going to try and pick up a servo saver after work if they have one at Pepboys, (it's sad when Pepboys has more RC parts than the LHS). I'm also going to try and get some anti-squat into that rear also. Ahh the joys of trying something new. Atleast I got my Schumacher Mi4 VTA car dialed in last night, it's on rails now.

aarivers

iTrader: (13)

I can put the pressure on Myron to get F1 into the Southern USVTA Nats, but he still leans more toward USGT over F1. Though USGT died off at our track after the Nats last year, the main attractions at our track are VTA and 17.5 Blinky TC.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Replaced the bearing, moved the diff one notch back on the cam, sanded the bearing carriers to remove any molding flash and guess what? None of the above. It appears that the section of the diff housing where the bearing seats isn't true and the bearing doesn't seat as square as it it supposed to. The bearing races are forced out alignment and that is the wobble. Time to order a new diff housing. It's the one part I wish 3Racing would make a machined version of.

6376vette

Yes it is the 104 front. I liked the durability and wider track of the 103 front end but I went for the adjustable camber instead. I have found out that the 104 parts are very durable as well.

Good luck on the servo saver. If you can't find one let me know. I can stop and get one on the way to Alabama. You won't have it until Friday night but at least you will have it. The anti squat will help a bunch.

I hope my vta gets hooked up. I just mounted new tires (actually found 2 sets in stock) and I got a new thunder power 65c race pack to install. Now I have to rebalance and Reweigh.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Try about 4* of front toe out! sounds crazy but it does work, if not go back to the FGX front!!


HOw are you guys with the 104 fronts putting the grooved tires up front?

6376vette

Unbelievable. At least you found the problem

6376vette

F1 at the southern nats would be awesome. I think we should make that happen.

aarivers

iTrader: (13)

If we use the UF1 rules then I think it would be great on the new track, I just need to get my car handling right so the guys around the track will start drooling over it and want one of their own. lol

6376vette

Uf 1 rules should work great. As far as your cars handling hopefully we will have all of that figured out this weekend.

you are right about the drooling. Once these things start to drive properly they draw a crowd. Especially with the unique sound of the fgx gearbox.

6376vette

BTW It looks like we will have 3 rabbits on the track Saturday.