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Old 02-28-2012, 04:11 PM   #1726
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If you have any questions or run in to any trouble with the new store send me a PM, email, or call. My office number and email are on my website.

Troy
No problems, the web store works great!
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:05 AM   #1727
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Just finished car 2 with the 90* mounted shorty and center mounted servo and electronics just in front of the motor. I posted a couple pictures of the proposed layout a couple pages back. I still have to paint the body. A shorty will fit in line with the servo mounted this way. A mini servo like a 9650 would make even more room. I'll give a running report after I try it Saturday.

Problem: Car 2 has a weird issue when rolling the rear drive line without a load on it. It's rolls smooth to a point, then feels like it goes over a hump, then rolls free the rest of the way around. I marked the wheel and it always happens in the same spot. I'm wondering if it's just a bad diff bearing out of the box. When I put a pinion on and let run it at low RPMs the driveline doesn't visually look out of round at the diff and nothing is wobbling or appear warped. I loosened the whole rear end up then snugged it gently back down and the problem followed. I do have a set of spare bearings, but haven't tried those yet. The old bearing spins free when it's not installed. I checked all the gear gaps to insure that wasn't the problem either. I'm afraid if I put the diff back another notch looser it might strip, but that would be the next step.
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:06 AM   #1728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Just finished car 2 with the 90* mounted shorty and center mounted servo and electronics just in front of the motor. I posted a couple pictures of the proposed layout a couple pages back. I still have to paint the body. A shorty will fit in line with the servo mounted this way. A mini servo like a 9650 would make even more room. I'll give a running report after I try it Saturday.

Problem: Car 2 has a weird issue when rolling the rear drive line without a load on it. It's rolls smooth to a point, then feels like it goes over a hump, then rolls free the rest of the way around. I marked the wheel and it always happens in the same spot. I'm wondering if it's just a bad diff bearing out of the box. When I put a pinion on and let run it at low RPMs the driveline doesn't visually look out of round at the diff and nothing is wobbling or appear warped. I loosened the whole rear end up then snugged it gently back down and the problem followed. I do have a set of spare bearings, but haven't tried those yet. The old bearing spins free when it's not installed. I checked all the gear gaps to insure that wasn't the problem either. I'm afraid if I put the diff back another notch looser it might strip, but that would be the next step.
is the diff indexed the same on both sides?(bearing holders)
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:26 AM   #1729
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Just finished car 2 with the 90* mounted shorty and center mounted servo and electronics just in front of the motor. I posted a couple pictures of the proposed layout a couple pages back. I still have to paint the body. A shorty will fit in line with the servo mounted this way. A mini servo like a 9650 would make even more room. I'll give a running report after I try it Saturday.

Problem: Car 2 has a weird issue when rolling the rear drive line without a load on it. It's rolls smooth to a point, then feels like it goes over a hump, then rolls free the rest of the way around. I marked the wheel and it always happens in the same spot. I'm wondering if it's just a bad diff bearing out of the box. When I put a pinion on and let run it at low RPMs the driveline doesn't visually look out of round at the diff and nothing is wobbling or appear warped. I loosened the whole rear end up then snugged it gently back down and the problem followed. I do have a set of spare bearings, but haven't tried those yet. The old bearing spins free when it's not installed. I checked all the gear gaps to insure that wasn't the problem either. I'm afraid if I put the diff back another notch looser it might strip, but that would be the next step.
Its a high spot on the gear running around the diff. Loosen up the cam adjusters one notch. you should be able to keep proper gear mesh. I had the exact same problem.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:41 AM   #1730
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Just finished car 2 with the 90* mounted shorty and center mounted servo and electronics just in front of the motor. I posted a couple pictures of the proposed layout a couple pages back. I still have to paint the body. A shorty will fit in line with the servo mounted this way. A mini servo like a 9650 would make even more room. I'll give a running report after I try it Saturday.

Problem: Car 2 has a weird issue when rolling the rear drive line without a load on it. It's rolls smooth to a point, then feels like it goes over a hump, then rolls free the rest of the way around. I marked the wheel and it always happens in the same spot. I'm wondering if it's just a bad diff bearing out of the box. When I put a pinion on and let run it at low RPMs the driveline doesn't visually look out of round at the diff and nothing is wobbling or appear warped. I loosened the whole rear end up then snugged it gently back down and the problem followed. I do have a set of spare bearings, but haven't tried those yet. The old bearing spins free when it's not installed. I checked all the gear gaps to insure that wasn't the problem either. I'm afraid if I put the diff back another notch looser it might strip, but that would be the next step.
I had the same problem, replaced the bearing holders and it was fixed.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:40 AM   #1731
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As Mentioned by Troy a few post back the McKune Design Carbon Fiber Conversion Kit for the FGX is being released this week, Great to see Troy made the push to get them our before the Nat's and we have a few from the first batch online and available for pre-order at Timezonehobbies.com

http://www.timezonehobbies.com/store...roducts_id=760
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3 racing new F1-md-fgx-kit-3.jpg  
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:27 PM   #1732
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I'll reset the index, it's at the stock config right now. One notch back shouldn't hurt or slip under load. Thanks 6376Vette, dag32 and mkennedy, that is solid advice.

I'm hoping to be working my McKune conversions next week some time.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:01 PM   #1733
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I'll reset the index, it's at the stock config right now. One notch back shouldn't hurt or slip under load. Thanks 6376Vette, dag32 and mkennedy, that is solid advice.

I'm hoping to be working my McKune conversions next week some time.
No problem That's what we are here for. Just wish we all lived closer together so we could race a little.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:15 PM   #1734
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No problem That's what we are here for. Just wish we all lived closer together so we could race a little.
I could be there in 9 hours.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:26 PM   #1735
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Dumb question - with a novak or tp 21.5 in a blinky conditions what are the recommended hearings folks have tried? Has more gear/less timing been effective? Or the opposite?
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:38 PM   #1736
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Dumb question - with a novak or tp 21.5 in a blinky conditions what are the recommended hearings folks have tried? Has more gear/less timing been effective? Or the opposite?
TP 21.5 - Stock timing is fine, the can is labeled 20* where mine are pointing right out of the box. Gearing from 26 to 30 tooth pinions keeps the heat down with the 35 tooth spur installed and gives great acceleration. Anything higher than a 32 pinion showed no signs of better top speed, just more heat. Punch never really changed all the way up to a 36 tooth pinion, but the 210* temp after 10 min. scared the hell out of me. This a very torqy and resilient motor. I have the TP 21.5 in both of mine and the big thing is in this chassis is ventilation in the body. Open up the airbox for sure. Side pods don't impact the motor heat much. I'm thinking about making a small flap just in front of the motor to deflect more air directly over the motor. The airbox alone is good for 15* of cooling.
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:21 PM   #1737
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Dumb question - with a novak or tp 21.5 in a blinky conditions what are the recommended hearings folks have tried? Has more gear/less timing been effective? Or the opposite?
for fdr i ran 2.7 with a reedy out the box and was a fair amount faster than the other guys running f1.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:30 PM   #1738
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I could be there in 9 hours.
Yeah and with the cost of gas makes it even harder. Thank God our cars are electric. I can't afford to run my gas toys. 8 miles per gallon on 93 octane keeps them parked.

Maybe it would be fun to organize a semi regional meeting maybe in Kentucky? All the south east and mid west guys could get together for a fun race. I think we need to look into this once its affordable to travel maybe next winter during the off season.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:34 PM   #1739
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Dumb question - with a novak or tp 21.5 in a blinky conditions what are the recommended hearings folks have tried? Has more gear/less timing been effective? Or the opposite?
I'm running a 3.05 and it works pretty well. Full timing on a reedy sonic. Temps have been 140 to 150. I'm about to experiment with a larger pinion and possibly backing off of the timing. Torque is good but I'm still searching for the proper balance between the motor timing gearing and esc settings.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:35 PM   #1740
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for fdr i ran 2.7 with a reedy out the box and was a fair amount faster than the other guys running f1.
What were your temps and timing settings?
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