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Old 02-26-2012, 06:18 PM   #1696
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Where is the cheapest place to get small amounts of vinyl?
visit a local sign place, they will usually just give it to you for free and they have lots of color choices.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:24 PM   #1697
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also try the airplane section of local hobby shop, in the paint/covering area.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:00 PM   #1698
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Try raising the rear roll center, i have been meaning to CAD up the rear geometry just havent had the spare time to do it. Ok so i just sketched the rear geometry out on a piece of paper and there is no real roll center??? because of the angle of the lower arm the upper arm will never cross its path! I am going to draw it up and post later tonight. You want to try and get the arms as close to parallel as you can so this means the upper inside link needs to be spaced down ALOT!! I did this on my car and it works wonders. I think this is one of the reasons the car acts kinda funky with settings not only do you not have a true front roll center (king pins) and the rear roll center is somewhere in lala land. Using a rear only sway bar is always going to have a tendency to lift the inside front tire which leads to traction rolling. Try tuning your car without the rear sway bar or a very light one.
Just an update.

I moved the upper link to the furthest inboard hole on the rabbit rear arms to lengthen the link and spaced the ball stud down 1.0mm to get the arms parallel and it made quite a difference. The car no longer wanted to traction roll. I then pulled the rear sway bar off and the rear of the car started to rotate through the turns even better. To my surprise the inside front tire was very planted all night even as traction came up. Only other change was going up one step from the softest 201 springs.

Car still isn't perfect. I'm still scrubbing speed in the turns but its much better and much more consistent. My previous best deviation was 0.7x and I got it down to 0.48. Car felt very good all night long. I know I'm leaving a few tenths in the turns. I was thinking of only using traction compound on half of the rear tire. Any other ideas?
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:39 PM   #1699
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Hey guys whats everyone using to paint the black wings white,blue and etc??
I usually use the colored vinyl from the rc airplane section but have also had good luck with krylon spray paint for plastic. Covered well and did not flake off in impacts.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:47 AM   #1700
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Brendon: did you get the rear end figured out? like the guys have mentioned try loosing the rear bulkhead and the other sugestions.... so far the kit's have really gone together quite well, and the rear end have been pretty butter smooth.

Toasted my first motor this Saturday must have had 75 packs through the car, with a fan and Friday just installed a vented end bell on the Ballistic but she slowed down came to a stop a released the magic smoke

going to try a Revtech this go around....
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:25 PM   #1701
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Toasted my first motor this Saturday must have had 75 packs through the car, with a fan and Friday just installed a vented end bell on the Ballistic but she slowed down came to a stop a released the magic smoke

going to try a Revtech this go around....
LRP.. These motors are awesome at handling high heat. I've had my 21.5 up to 190 without any incidents.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:33 PM   #1702
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A tip for all of you that are having heat issues. I run my car geared at 38/35 on all tracks short and long. my temps barely get above 120*(ran for 20min straight yesterday!!!) and i have the cheapo hobbywing motor! one of our locals smoked two silver cans geared at 30/35 within two practice days. there are two things you can do to get your motor happy, keep in mind that there are alot of gears and alot of bearings therefore a lot of parasitic drag. Remove all of your bearings, soak them in brake cleaner overnight. In the morning shake whatever container you have them soaking in, remove from the container and if you have a compressor blow them out, if not then just use your mouth. When you are done put about 5 drops of the lightest synthetic motor oil in each bearing on one side of the bearings, replace and feel the difference!! If you dont want to go this route buy a set of AVID ceramics which work even better and they also help out with the front end slop!
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:53 PM   #1703
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Originally Posted by MAD916 View Post
Brendon: did you get the rear end figured out? like the guys have mentioned try loosing the rear bulkhead and the other sugestions.... so far the kit's have really gone together quite well, and the rear end have been pretty butter smooth.

Toasted my first motor this Saturday must have had 75 packs through the car, with a fan and Friday just installed a vented end bell on the Ballistic but she slowed down came to a stop a released the magic smoke

going to try a Revtech this go around....
Hobby store clerk mentioned to me that the the Novak Ballistics burn out quite frequently. He recommended LRP X12 or Reedy Sonic.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:13 PM   #1704
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Brendon: did you get the rear end figured out? like the guys have mentioned try loosing the rear bulkhead and the other sugestions.... so far the kit's have really gone together quite well, and the rear end have been pretty butter smooth.

Toasted my first motor this Saturday must have had 75 packs through the car, with a fan and Friday just installed a vented end bell on the Ballistic but she slowed down came to a stop a released the magic smoke

going to try a Revtech this go around....
Hey Mark, yes I got the rear end figured out. I just loosened some screws on the bulkhead and it settled in. I got everything else put together as well. Hopefully, I'll be ordering the electronics soon!
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:11 PM   #1705
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
A tip for all of you that are having heat issues. I run my car geared at 38/35 on all tracks short and long. my temps barely get above 120*(ran for 20min straight yesterday!!!) and i have the cheapo hobbywing motor! one of our locals smoked two silver cans geared at 30/35 within two practice days. there are two things you can do to get your motor happy, keep in mind that there are alot of gears and alot of bearings therefore a lot of parasitic drag. Remove all of your bearings, soak them in brake cleaner overnight. In the morning shake whatever container you have them soaking in, remove from the container and if you have a compressor blow them out, if not then just use your mouth. When you are done put about 5 drops of the lightest synthetic motor oil in each bearing on one side of the bearings, replace and feel the difference!! If you dont want to go this route buy a set of AVID ceramics which work even better and they also help out with the front end slop!
Great tip but I would be sure to use a very low air pressure with the compressor. You can blow the balls out if you're not careful.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:11 PM   #1706
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Default MD FGX Carbon Fiber Conversion Kit

Done!

I will have more pictures up this week that show the multiple configurations. The last bit of development I did was not posted post but here is the update. The kit comes with 2 upper tie plates, regular and stiff. These allow you to adjust the flex of the chassis from regular, stiffer, and stiffest. The stiff version uses countersunk screws and has an optional screw to tie it in further back on the top deck. Another addition is the 3rd pair of tape slots and clearance for the use of "Shorty" 7.4v Lipo packs. I am currently working on pictures of this in use. The front wing mount raises the front wing 2mm over stock. I have found that depending on rear droop and ride height the front wing drags when the front suspension is compressed under braking. You can lower it back to stock with shims.

I am currently machining kits. The last remaining order of spacers, screws, and standoffs should be here by Wednesday. I hope to have the instructions done and kits starting to ship by Wednesday as well.

Here is a picture of the kit.


Here is the link to Preorder:
http://mckunedesign.com/store/index....products_id=10

If you have any questions or run in to any trouble with the new store send me a PM, email, or call. My office number and email are on my website.

Troy
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:13 PM   #1707
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Originally Posted by hkbruin View Post
Hobby store clerk mentioned to me that the the Novak Ballistics burn out quite frequently. He recommended LRP X12 or Reedy Sonic.
Not a problem with the ballistics. Any brushless motor will smoke if its overheated. I have used Novak lrp and reedy all with good results. Keep checking temps and you will be fine.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:17 PM   #1708
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
A tip for all of you that are having heat issues. I run my car geared at 38/35 on all tracks short and long. my temps barely get above 120*(ran for 20min straight yesterday!!!) and i have the cheapo hobbywing motor! one of our locals smoked two silver cans geared at 30/35 within two practice days. there are two things you can do to get your motor happy, keep in mind that there are alot of gears and alot of bearings therefore a lot of parasitic drag. Remove all of your bearings, soak them in brake cleaner overnight. In the morning shake whatever container you have them soaking in, remove from the container and if you have a compressor blow them out, if not then just use your mouth. When you are done put about 5 drops of the lightest synthetic motor oil in each bearing on one side of the bearings, replace and feel the difference!! If you dont want to go this route buy a set of AVID ceramics which work even better and they also help out with the front end slop!
Hmmmm I read your post again and am wondering. I'm running 31/35 and temp at 140-150 after 8 minutes. I wonder if its under geared???? #2 how are you fitting a 38 pinion on the motor? I don't have the room. Maybe a 33 or 34. What timing are you running?
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:59 PM   #1709
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Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
Done!

I will have more pictures up this week that show the multiple configurations. The last bit of development I did was not posted post but here is the update. The kit comes with 2 upper tie plates, regular and stiff. These allow you to adjust the flex of the chassis from regular, stiffer, and stiffest. The stiff version uses countersunk screws and has an optional screw to tie it in further back on the top deck. Another addition is the 3rd pair of tape slots and clearance for the use of "Shorty" 7.4v Lipo packs. I am currently working on pictures of this in use. The front wing mount raises the front wing 2mm over stock. I have found that depending on rear droop and ride height the front wing drags when the front suspension is compressed under braking. You can lower it back to stock with shims.

I am currently machining kits. The last remaining order of spacers, screws, and standoffs should be here by Wednesday. I hope to have the instructions done and kits starting to ship by Wednesday as well.

Here is a picture of the kit.


Here is the link to Preorder:
http://mckunedesign.com/store/index....products_id=10

If you have any questions or run in to any trouble with the new store send me a PM, email, or call. My office number and email are on my website.

Troy
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:03 PM   #1710
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Hmmmm I read your post again and am wondering. I'm running 31/35 and temp at 140-150 after 8 minutes. I wonder if its under geared???? #2 how are you fitting a 38 pinion on the motor? I don't have the room. Maybe a 33 or 34. What timing are you running?
its a VERy close fit!! I actually think you may be under geared, run into this all of the time in off road especially E buggies. I gotta say that the acceleration is stunning as well as the top end! keep in mind that i am running ceramics which did cool it off about 15*
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