Team Losi JRXS
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I havent run TC4 hubs, but TC3 hubs using the A hole and 7 or 8 camberlink on the shock tower gives a lot of rear traction.
Cheers Malc THE CAN MAN
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I havent run TC4 hubs, but TC3 hubs using the A hole and 7 or 8 camberlink on the shock tower gives a lot of rear traction.
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Originally Posted by Yeti35
I am thinkin the rear motor car should be no different in the respect that you really can't use the Lipo batteries for the don't fit in the battery compartment. If I am wrong I am sure someone will correct me. There was a couple of guys here that got rid of their JRXS's for that very reason. I don't feel that is a valid reason for getting rid of a good car but whatever.
The production rear motor car will be Lipo pack friendly.
Drew PM sent
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Originally Posted by Juan Valdez
Hey Randy, can you explain this? Just to be clear, your saying using the TC3 rear hubs provides more rear traction than the stock Losi hubs? What exactly do they do? Change the roll center? Allow for a longer rear camber link? Just curious because I've been trying to get a little more rear traction (running mod rubber on asphalt for the first time this summer). Thanks for the help!
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Out of curiosity, what is used as the C-hub in the JR front link mod? Is there a different hub that is used? I don't see how that works making that hub out of two different pieces...
Is that a hub from another Losi car?
Is that a hub from another Losi car?
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Out of curiosity, what is used as the C-hub in the JR front link mod? Is there a different hub that is used? I don't see how that works making that hub out of two different pieces...
Is that a hub from another Losi car?
Is that a hub from another Losi car?
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Is there an upper hinge pin location on the 0° hub? All of the front hubs I have are ball end tops... I'm not seeing it.
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This circled area is NOT part of a normal 0° hub from a JRXS...
I have seen a few that looked like they were glued or epoxied together, but there's no way I put a car on the track with glued suspension components.
I have seen a few that looked like they were glued or epoxied together, but there's no way I put a car on the track with glued suspension components.
Last edited by squarehead; 11-29-2010 at 02:53 PM.
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I havent actually measured the difference in where the camber link mounts, but the A hole in the TC3 hub is lower and further inward than the A hole in our hub. I havent tried using them with the middle row (4, 5, and 6) on our shock tower as I believe it wouldn't have any camber gain because of how low the link mounts on the TC3 hub. They fit in pretty easilly, you just have to file a little material off of the area where the hingepin goes through to get them to fit in our arms.
Has anyone tried running more than 2 deg of rear toe-in on this car? If I remember right, this should help the rear tires remain planted better on-power coming out of a corner. Correct?
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
This circled area is NOT part of a normal 0° hub from a JRXS...
I have seen a few that looked like they were glued or epoxied together, but there's no way I put a car on the track with glued suspension components.
I have seen a few that looked like they were glued or epoxied together, but there's no way I put a car on the track with glued suspension components.
Originally Posted by Juan Valdez
Thanks Randy. I may have to give this a try this weekend.
Has anyone tried running more than 2 deg of rear toe-in on this car? If I remember right, this should help the rear tires remain planted better on-power coming out of a corner. Correct?
Has anyone tried running more than 2 deg of rear toe-in on this car? If I remember right, this should help the rear tires remain planted better on-power coming out of a corner. Correct?
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Thanks, I found it now. Post numbers 10354 & 10355 from this thread if anyone is searching, as well. No photos anymore, though.
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Originally Posted by Juan Valdez
Thanks Randy. I may have to give this a try this weekend.
Has anyone tried running more than 2 deg of rear toe-in on this car? If I remember right, this should help the rear tires remain planted better on-power coming out of a corner. Correct?
Has anyone tried running more than 2 deg of rear toe-in on this car? If I remember right, this should help the rear tires remain planted better on-power coming out of a corner. Correct?
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Thanks, I found it now. Post numbers 10354 & 10355 from this thread if anyone is searching, as well. No photos anymore, though.
There ya go! The parts are not glued but as they were sanded down they had a glossy look on some. Imagine looking at the C hub and cutting the bottom off. then take that piece and stack it on topo of another C hub. The boss for the set screw is sticking down in most of the pics so it makes it a lil confusing. Hope this helps.
Brant