POOKYT

I wasn't aware of a 2 or a 3 mm deck. I just checked mine and its 3mm. The fans are the way to go to keep down the temps. As for a thinner front deck I don't really think it would make much if any differance. My only experience with any type of front push came last year and it was the first pack of the day and I was the first person on the track that day. With our front motor car, you should have all the front traction you could want. If you feel you need more steering, then lower the front roll center a shim. With the rear deck I have run the car many times back to back with the posts in and out and you can tell a difference. I always just remove the lower post screws to allow the deck to flex and not let the X-Ray boys know what I'm up to. Hope this helps you out and thanks for giving me the "fix"!!!! LOL

Brant

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

The Losi crowd is pretty fast at the nationals, hopefully we all get some good results when it comes race time!

POOKYT

Keep it up Randy!!!!! Tell all the team guys were cheering them on!!

Brant

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hey Mr Pook, when you say "If you feel you need more steering, then lower the front roll center a shim." Do you mean add a shim or take one out? Thanks, JW.

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

How can THAT be!? Seeing as I am NOT in attendance....hehehhe. Don't jinx us, Randy- it's just the first day!

Good luck.

POOKYT

JW--I mean take one out or if its the thick spacer replace it with the thinner spacer. Our all time fav. set-up for the JRXS is the Numan from last years Reedy race. It has 2 thick spacers under the roll center blocks. Sometimes I prefer the thick plus a thin shim or even just 1 thick shim. It just depends on the track. With the Numan set-up, the idea is to stabilize the front end and let the rear roll more for corner speed. Currently I am running 1 thick shim under the front roll center and 1 thin spacer under the rear roll center. This just felt the best so far with the Jr. front camber link. By raising the rear roll center 1 thin shim I tightened up the rear end just enough to suit me. Hope all this makes sense. Later fellas!

BTW---Randy,J.,Todd, or anybody!!! If I'm wrong on the roll center thing and this is all in my head please correct me. Thanks

Brant

POOKYT

J.--Since your not there did you let Randy borrow a pair of "Power Socks"?

Brant

Juan Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input, Pooky. I think the thinner Cool Can Fan topdeck is a recent addition, as I don't remember seeing on his site in the past, either.

For those running asphalt, if you're having trouble with the Numan setup, consider the Steve Weiss '05 Reedy setup (posted somewhere in this thread). I started with the Numan setup and could not keep the back end planted (maybe just a low grip track?). I've been slowing migrating towards the Steve Weiss setup, and my car is better (for me). Currently I'm running the Steve Weiss setup with a low rear diff, high front diff and a 0 deg front pivot block. Lowering the rear diff seemed to really help lock the rear end in. So if people are looking for more rear traction, try lowering your rear diff. It makes a pretty drastic difference. This is the best my car has been so far on asphalt (only 3 weeks experience on the stuff with rubbers though ), and I could have probably taken the mod B-main at my track last Sunday, had I not blown my motor up after five laps.

Good luck to Losi at the Nats! It would be cool to see MF repeat his 19turn title from last year. (Or even better, take the mod title. )

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Do you guys run normal or offset hubs normally for blacktop, and do you prefer the toe on the hub on inboard? I am looking to hear what is popular, because im just going in circles

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

Pookyt- LOL! Good one...no one sweats in my socks but me! Besides, it's just too hot out here now to wear them. Oh, and they were broken at the Reedy Race, the socks were...hahhaha.

rcracingkid- Definitely the standard hubs, not the O/S ones for asphalt...and I prefer to achieve the toe inboard, not on the hubs. I almost always run 0 degree hubs...sometimes 1/2 degrees flipped if the track is really tight.I don't know if that is what is 'popular' but it's definitely what is common.

POOKYT

Ditto on the rear blocks. Normally I stick with the 2 rear bar and go from 0 hubs to the 1/2 hubs flipped to drop the toe-in to 1.5 deg.

Guys if you are having trouble at your local tracks with too loose in the rear, don't be afraid to change the roll center shims. It will make a huge difference.

If the front needs more steering then take away shims. If the rear is too loose then add shims. When I'm tunning and I need a large change instead of just shock position or even camber locations the most dramatic feeling is in the roll center blocks. Second to dramatic feeling is the camber locations. Good Luck and don't be afraid to try different things. Just always remember where you started so you have a base set-up. Now Go Tune!!!

Brant

POOKYT

Well......You know Randy and I think he said he only wants solid black knee highs or silver stripes!!!! He is anal about color coordinating ya know.

Brant

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

You sorta contradicted yourself there, adding shims in the rear = more grip, adding shims in the front = less grip????????


Thanks for the hub info guys, i have always run offset for everything, and always all the toe in the hubs, maybe thats what my car lacks outdoors

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

No jinxing, just a lot of hard work by everyone yesterday and today and the laptimes are dropping lower and lower.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Anyone know the post # for the Weiss setup? Or a link?

Pookyt, when you are talking about the shims for roll centers, do you mean under the front and rear pivots of the front or rear end, or just under the degree pivot? (long bar versus small pivot block)

JF, what is O/S hub versus standard hub?

Thanks, JW.