Team Losi JRXS
#5536
I ran the new aluminum battery tray, and it is very nice and fits like a glove
-Buddy
-Buddy
#5537
Tech Fanatic
Any new word on when the tray will be out?
#5538
Should be soon, the one that i ran wasnt anodized yet, so i am guessing thats all they need to do for the trays to be complete...
#5539
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
so im building this pig.. and well.. mixed feelings..
on the motor mount bulkhead, the rear pin seems to have a shoulder to it. Perhaps it wasnt pressed in all the way.. regardless, it causes the rear upper deck to not sit flush with the mount.. is this supposed to be this way?
Also... I swear, from the looking at it, the center shaft is cocked... with the right side slightly back from the left. Am I hallucinating?
//KBpower
on the motor mount bulkhead, the rear pin seems to have a shoulder to it. Perhaps it wasnt pressed in all the way.. regardless, it causes the rear upper deck to not sit flush with the mount.. is this supposed to be this way?
Also... I swear, from the looking at it, the center shaft is cocked... with the right side slightly back from the left. Am I hallucinating?
//KBpower
#5540
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Hi all, I just got my car and have noticed that the kit setup "pushed" (understeered) throughout cornering at my local track. I have tried using Todd's asphalt setup , but unfortunately, I was not able to purchase the 10.5lb rear springs and the shims required to to go under the front roll centre (2 x 0.050" to make it 0.100"). I did however, make the BK bones and had them mounted on. My question is:
Does these two (2) variations from Todd's setup cause the car to handle like inconsistently when cornering? (cause the rear end to swap with the front end almost all of the time during hair pin turns) Also, the rear end just felt like it wasn't "locked in" (unstable).
The track conditions were: large medium grip track, 16'C ambient temperature, night racing.
Using 32 Sorex rubbers
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Does these two (2) variations from Todd's setup cause the car to handle like inconsistently when cornering? (cause the rear end to swap with the front end almost all of the time during hair pin turns) Also, the rear end just felt like it wasn't "locked in" (unstable).
The track conditions were: large medium grip track, 16'C ambient temperature, night racing.
Using 32 Sorex rubbers
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
#5541
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
At the Reedy, I saw the prototype aluminum trays in use by the Team Losi guys. This tray will fit GP3700s (being 23 cm) into the car with no other mods or work required. I have seen it. Losi has this issue well in hand.
#5542
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Keith, it does sound like you got a motor mount with the centering pin not pressed in fully. If this is the case, you can do either of two things. One is call TeamLosi and let them know, they'll likely send you a new peice. What I would do is try a couple taps with a small hammer and a punch(if available). It shouldn't take much to get it to go flush on the shoulder.
The center shaft is straight as an arrow(or should be), since if it was off angle it would cause the belts to try and ride off the pulleys. Spin the drivetrain to double check this.
Dirtydog, I would definately try Todds entire set up, not only partial, since having just one thing different means you'll be upsetting the balance in the set up. If your using stiffer springs in back, that may cause some oversteer. From my experience not using the roll center spacers up front would help with the balance, favoring the rear, since a higher roll center up front will add steering.
There are a few things you'll need to try. One is not using the BK brackets on the car, without the updated change in springs. Then try adjusting your dual rate settings, for example my car on the stops is set at 100% dual rate, then the end points are set for each side(mine is 105 right and 99 left)...but I race at 80% dual rate. This creates more steering feel(100% of the transmitter wheel movement is 80% at the car) and also limits wheel scrub and takes away a little steering. The idea is to make the chassis steer the car, not over steering the tires, which overheats them and scrubs corner speed.
The other, if needed, is going back to the high rear roll center, for more rear traction. You can also stand the rear shocks up one hole to add side bite.
Try some of these things one at a time.....Hope this helps, Jim
The center shaft is straight as an arrow(or should be), since if it was off angle it would cause the belts to try and ride off the pulleys. Spin the drivetrain to double check this.
Dirtydog, I would definately try Todds entire set up, not only partial, since having just one thing different means you'll be upsetting the balance in the set up. If your using stiffer springs in back, that may cause some oversteer. From my experience not using the roll center spacers up front would help with the balance, favoring the rear, since a higher roll center up front will add steering.
There are a few things you'll need to try. One is not using the BK brackets on the car, without the updated change in springs. Then try adjusting your dual rate settings, for example my car on the stops is set at 100% dual rate, then the end points are set for each side(mine is 105 right and 99 left)...but I race at 80% dual rate. This creates more steering feel(100% of the transmitter wheel movement is 80% at the car) and also limits wheel scrub and takes away a little steering. The idea is to make the chassis steer the car, not over steering the tires, which overheats them and scrubs corner speed.
The other, if needed, is going back to the high rear roll center, for more rear traction. You can also stand the rear shocks up one hole to add side bite.
Try some of these things one at a time.....Hope this helps, Jim
#5543
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Keith, it does sound like you got a motor mount with the centering pin not pressed in fully. If this is the case, you can do either of two things. One is call TeamLosi and let them know, they'll likely send you a new peice. What I would do is try a couple taps with a small hammer and a punch(if available). It shouldn't take much to get it to go flush on the shoulder.
The center shaft is straight as an arrow(or should be), since if it was off angle it would cause the belts to try and ride off the pulleys. Spin the drivetrain to double check this.
The center shaft is straight as an arrow(or should be), since if it was off angle it would cause the belts to try and ride off the pulleys. Spin the drivetrain to double check this.
thanks.. i SWEAR the center shaft is cocked, with the right side further back. I had to cook dinner... and well.. now we are going to watch a movie.. so car is on hold till tomorrow... Ill try pushing the pin in...
//KBpower
#5544
Tech Apprentice
Reedy Race Set ups????
Josh Numan that flying in mod. Matt Francis was running well. Kinwald won a race also. Although it look more like everon else ran bad after the pile up more than Kinwald running good.
Does anyone have the setups the tream was using for the Tamiya track?
Does anyone have the setups the tream was using for the Tamiya track?
#5545
Originally Posted by GTIRACER
Does anyone have the setups the tream was using for the Tamiya track?
Contrary to what was said above...You will need to do virtually the whole setup to get it right. The BK shock brackets, softer springs and attachment points are musts. Doing the things in this setup one-at-a-time is definitely not the answer. They need to be done in combination.
Just got home from the Ripon asphalt track. My car was terrific for this so-so driver. Best handling car I have driven to date.
Bill
#5546
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
I was so impressed with my JRXS. Missing parts in the kit. A car released without having an up to date battery tray and then the plastic diff half shattering on a test run in with a stock motor. So impressed I took the electrics out and ran over it with my real car. Then threw it in the bin. In nearly twenty years of building and racing cars this has been the most unprofessional kit I have ever seen. Never another Losi for me !!!
Let the flames begin
Let the flames begin
#5547
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by cannon
I was so impressed with my JRXS. Missing parts in the kit. A car released without having an up to date battery tray and then the plastic diff half shattering on a test run in with a stock motor. So impressed I took the electrics out and ran over it with my real car. Then threw it in the bin. In nearly twenty years of building and racing cars this has been the most unprofessional kit I have ever seen. Never another Losi for me !!!
Let the flames begin
Let the flames begin
#5548
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by cannon
I was so impressed with my JRXS. Missing parts in the kit. A car released without having an up to date battery tray and then the plastic diff half shattering on a test run in with a stock motor. So impressed I took the electrics out and ran over it with my real car. Then threw it in the bin. In nearly twenty years of building and racing cars this has been the most unprofessional kit I have ever seen. Never another Losi for me !!!
Let the flames begin
Let the flames begin
I love the internet.
#5549
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by cannon
I was so impressed with my JRXS. Missing parts in the kit. A car released without having an up to date battery tray and then the plastic diff half shattering on a test run in with a stock motor. So impressed I took the electrics out and ran over it with my real car. Then threw it in the bin. In nearly twenty years of building and racing cars this has been the most unprofessional kit I have ever seen. Never another Losi for me !!!
Let the flames begin
Let the flames begin
As for throwing it away...
I hear these US kits cost quite a bit down there in Austrailia, thats an awful lot of money to run over and toss away...Yikes!
#5550
Hi,
I've got a Pro 4 at the moment which is a brilliant car, but when I saw the JRX-S I just thought it looked right with the battery motor and servo positionings, but I've got a few concerns that I hope you can answer
First of all, I knew a couple of people who had a XXX-S G+ and they seemed to have nothing but problems with them, they seemed to break so easily and struggled on low grip surfaces, what's the durability like on the JRX-S?
Also, what are the kit springs like? Can you get a decent setup with them for foams on carpet?
And lastly, in general is there any mods or anything I should be doing to it if I get one?
I've got a Pro 4 at the moment which is a brilliant car, but when I saw the JRX-S I just thought it looked right with the battery motor and servo positionings, but I've got a few concerns that I hope you can answer
First of all, I knew a couple of people who had a XXX-S G+ and they seemed to have nothing but problems with them, they seemed to break so easily and struggled on low grip surfaces, what's the durability like on the JRX-S?
Also, what are the kit springs like? Can you get a decent setup with them for foams on carpet?
And lastly, in general is there any mods or anything I should be doing to it if I get one?