Second time out with the car at our local track today in Singapore, South East Asia. Weather is warm and very humid. Ran with box set up on Monday 16th to get the feel and character of the Losi. Tyres Sorex 40R on Type B mediums. Motor Orion 8x2 geared 128/25. Track is around 10+ seconds a lap, tight with a 80ft back straight going into 150degree u-turn into a switchback. I am a one-way stick driver with smooth line driving and I very rarely use brakes, finishing consistently in the A-mains in our local touring scene.
Setup as per manual. The car was twitchy on the whole so i had to detune exponentially -20%. Ran 6 packs with no changes to car on Monday. Consistently overdrove the u-turn at the end of the backstraight, this having to let off the throttle mid-straight. Slight on-power push but roll recovery is fantastic. The car switches well left to right to left and I could achieve this while throttling.
Changes made are the following during today's practice.
Front shocks. 40wt to 60wt to desensitize the steering sensitivity. Leaned shock into innermost hole since I have no option tuning springs yet.
Front Camber link. Top hole to run parallel. Lowers the roll center to allow it to roll easier.
Rear roll center. Copied Joel Johnson running all 8 shims below pivot blocks to raise roll center to stabilize the rear from rolling about too much.
Rear camber link. Copied Kinwald's Socal setup with short link. Trying to break the rear loose to achieve better rotation.
Effect? Without any sway bars in stock, I tried to achieve this aggressive stance the above way. Nose down attitude. But still I overdrove that u-turn at the end of the straight. I personally hate to brake cos i lose all momentum, even drag brakes.
The one that did it finally for me that knocked down my lap times was to switch the front and rear springs. Yes, 35lb to the rear and 12.5lb to the front. Please try it. This car attacks every corner very well. Shaved a whopping 0.5sec off my average lap time.
Will keep you all informed with hot and humid weather testing here in Singapore.
Originally posted by Rocket Ronbo
from the stock set-up, The changes have in order:
1. High diffs = a better cvd/lcd angle to the diffs/spool
2. Long rear camber = A more stable rear end, trying to get the car to steer from the front not the rear. It seemed to eliminate the rear from stepping out.
3. 2 degree rear toe bracket = I think this is stock but I tried so much I just ended up here and the rear bite and steering were the best so far.
4. Low rear roll position = When using the higher position and/or shims the car needed a short camber link to get the balance of steering and rear grip, but the rear was a little unstable.
5. 0 front pivot = Well I tried 2,1,0 and the initial steering was better with more toe-out in the pins, the middle was lacking. With 0 and the low rear roll the steering was back in the middle of the corner and the entrance was not compromised.
I guess I should of changed 5 and 6 because 6 was what I worked on before 5.
6. High front roll = To get the car to turn in and carry the arc I raised the front roll, the higher I raised it the better it got (but more than 2 thick shims and some arm and carrier plastic needs to be removed) So I stopped at 2 thick shims.
7. camber just for reference
8. Spacing the arms forward well = I tried all three ways and I liked forward better
Remember your results may vary
But we got to try stuff outside the box (only way to learn)