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Old 04-23-2005, 05:12 PM   #4291
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A couple more things I remembered talking with a guy at the LHS about putting the car together. I forgot what company, but somebody makes one of those four way tire wrenches and they put a ball cup holder on one end to make it easier to put tie rods together. Donít use it. It can pinch the ball cups that come in the kit and make them bind. About half of my ball cups were binding until I stopped using that tool and the rest of them were fine.

The last thing is those little locating pins. The .050 wrench strips itself and the pins very easily. If you have someway of pre threading the holes with something stronger but the same size as the locating pin I would suggest doing that.
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Old 04-23-2005, 05:55 PM   #4292
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Originally posted by Darkseid
FIRST, lets get one thing straight, I didn't "chop up" s***. I took my time and took off only what was needed to get my pack in. I didn't just start hacking away. I spent hours.....HOURS!!! trimming and fitting just to get the pack in.

Secondly, l never said ANYBODY should do what I did. POOKYT asked for picks, so I posted them.

If ANYBODY has doubts about my methods, pick up a pack of GP3700 w/shrink wrap and try to fit them in...just try. As I said in my previos posts...IF ANYBODY HAS A EASIER WAY, PLEASE POST IT, that includes regular people AND team people.

I don't want anybody to have to go through all that to get in their pack in. And if someone comes up with a simpler method, please share, cause I'll be the first person ordering new rear bulkheads and a battery tray to do the simpler method.

But for now, this was the only way I could find. And I ONLY posted the pics cause a fellow board member asked for help.

So unless you know a better way, please save the "chop up" comments.

The sad part is, right before I posted the pics, I told my wife that someone (who hasn't tried to fit the 3700 pack in) will have some kind of comments about how this or that wasn't neccesary, and I knew I would regret even bringing up the problem I had...cause as we all know Losi is perfect.

I should have went with my first thought and not even brought up my problem or the my solution...I'll know better next time.

Never said anything bad about the car, just offered up a solution to a problem...


To the people who have doubts...My info is on a take it or leave it basis...don't like it, don't use it.<brushing my shoulder off...>

For those who might need the info, good luck and I hope it works out for you like it did for me.

Theres my Darkseid! LOL Thanks for the pics.
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Old 04-23-2005, 06:00 PM   #4293
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Originally posted by Andrew Gray
POOKYT- With rubber tires using the center 1way you will gain steering entering the corner, and in general your car will have more corner speed, however you will lose traction under braking, so this could make your car hard to drive if your track requires frequent braking. A front diff of spool will be the most consistant and easiest to drive, if you are running stock or 19t I would say start with a tight front diff, it will provide more steering entering a corner than a spool. With a spool you will lose entry steering, but the car will square up faster when the power in applied, giving more steering out of a corner and on power. A spool also pulls harder out of a corner with no lag because the front wheels are locked. I am running a spool on mod qith rubber tires. Alot of it is also personal preference. I hope this helps.
Thaks Andrew--I have been running a spool in my XXXSG+ for the past 8 months and love it. Just want to start off with the JRXS as quick as possible.

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Old 04-23-2005, 07:27 PM   #4294
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Default Re: battery fitting

Originally posted by Andy C
I had to remove the shrink wrap to get my gp3300 batteries to fit. I definately filed down the rear slot enough because the battery is even with the bottom of the chassis. I can't figure out why some of us are having problems and some of us are not. Cars should all be identical. I guess I will just have to remove the shrink wrap for now since the Hurricane cells I buy come pre done with wrap.
I think the packs are different. I assembled a new 3300 pack tonight and it did not fit while all my old packs did. I just had to take off some material off of the front most battery slot and all was good. The battery fit in the chassis, but the door was about 1 mm from shutting at the screw end. Looking at the packs (all orange/green GP 3300s) the new one was 1 to 2 mm longer overall.
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Old 04-23-2005, 07:46 PM   #4295
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Default First impressions

I ran the car today and it seemed very good out of the box. I have a box stock setup on it because I don't have any springs or other tuning parts for it. Car ran great after some small problems. I ran identical lap times as my fk05 that I have been tuning on for a month. Only problems I had was the steering knuckle stop got caught on the beveled portion of the caster block when I bumped the boards that caused the wheels to lock fully turned. You can either smooth out the steering stop with an exacto or glue a washer on the knuckle like we were doing with the xxxs. So what does anyone else that drove the car think
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Old 04-23-2005, 08:31 PM   #4296
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Man I'm glad I did not buy this car..Thanks guys,saved me $309..BTW 3700's fit in a TC4 with no mods..
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Old 04-23-2005, 08:36 PM   #4297
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A buddy bought a new JRX and needed to do alot of custom fitting of parts and had to dremel the rear bulkhead for the batteries to fit. As long as it took to get the car out they could of fixed the battery problem. For the cost he shouldn't of had to custom fit so many parts.

He did like the car overall but it was alot more work to get ready than some other top cars out.
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Old 04-23-2005, 08:53 PM   #4298
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Originally posted by POOKYT
Theres my Darkseid! LOL Thanks for the pics.
No problem on the pics, I hope it helps.

Hopefully the team guys will be back soon with an easier way to pull this off.

Or, you can just do what my buddy is doing...stick to 3600 instead of the 3700 packs...
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:18 PM   #4299
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Originally posted by Darkseid
No problem on the pics, I hope it helps.

Hopefully the team guys will be back soon with an easier way to pull this off.

Or, you can just do what my buddy is doing...stick to 3600 instead of the 3700 packs...
Some of my 3300s are 3600s but its the principle I guess, car should've been right for 300+ any available battery should fit.
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:21 PM   #4300
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No one should have to modify their JRXS to get 3300 packs to fit, assuming the packs are built correctly. You do need to angle the battery leads differently to get the back to fit, but no modification of the car should be necessary. I think Losi put some info up on their site related to this.

The OLD first-generation GP3300s are too big, however. I ran into that myself when I grabbed an old pack for a photo shoot.

Still, when the car went into production, the only (competitive) legal batteries in the US were GP3300s. Given the car's design, I don't think it's a stretch for them to release a car that is geared entirely towards competitive racing and fits the only cell that anybody uses.
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:41 PM   #4301
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Originally posted by NVisible
i feel bad for all you Losi Lumberjacks
HAhahaa Losi Lumberjacks That is so funny...Good one ...seriously thats some funny stuff!
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Old 04-23-2005, 11:10 PM   #4302
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Default 3300's and the JRXS

It would seem that the JRXS cars are very similar to the Lockheed SR71's. Thought each SR71 was totally different, had their own unique characteristics, and even some of the supposed identical parts would not fit on another bird. Each Pilot learn each aircraft's own unique personality traits.

Well it would seem each JRXS out there is quite unique. Each seems to have or not have problems.

1. I have 2 prebuilt LCD's that are defective. One was incorrectly assembled, leaving a part out of it completely. The other is defective, excessive binding and the Quality Control Checker #_ did not check to see if either LCD was correct.

2. Bad Center Shaft Bearing which was causing a mysterious Clicking sound when tension was placed on the belts. My local GREAT Hobby Shop took care of me, Super Customer Service.(4 Fun Hobbies and Raceway)

3. The front belt rubs on the lower servo mount screw.

4. Knowing that there are maybe thousands of Deans Battery Bars in use, The battery hole in the botom of the chassis is not wide enough to clear these.

5. I love that there is an optional 41T pulley to run for over/underdrive set up. But could the instructions have said that it was in BAG "F".

Is anyone out there racing the Skoda Body. Everyone I have chatted with, talked to or other communication with, is using Mazda 6, Protoform Stratus 3.0, Honda or Parma Alfa. So why did they include the Skoda Body?

But as i continue to build the car, I still think it is COOL. And look at it this way, there is LOTS if room for aftermarket manufacturers to get in on his gray train.

Non adjustable rear bulk heads with fixed High/low Diff positions with additional room built in for batteries (3700/3800's)

Redesigned motor mount and center shaft bulk heads, slightly raising the shaft allowing more room for battery clearance.

A multitude of Battery tray configurations..

Different configured chassis, thicker, wider battery opening...

Plus all of the normal after market goodies...

I can't wait to get mine to the track,,,just hope that there is a quick turnn around in Losi Customer service...
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Old 04-23-2005, 11:31 PM   #4303
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A couple things, 1st team drivers do not use extra shrink wrap on their cells nor do they shoe-goo or glue them together. Both of these can add length to your batteries. Just 1 or 2mm is enough to keep them from fitting. If you use shoe-goo or extra shrink you are going to have to modify the rear bulkeheads ever so slightly, My IB3600s required a little modification(shrink wrap and shoe-goo)

But know they fit perfect. I do hate the wiring for the batts though. Luckily a friend of mine saw Darroch's car at The Gate a couple weeks ago and showed me how to wire it up.

2nd thing that really bothered me tonight. Ran the car for the first time and it was extremely incosistant in the turning department. Then after some thought I remembered my TC4 uses the same servo horn for JR and KO. The JRXS manual clearly says to use a 25t when infact it should be a 23t.

This was causing my servo horn to skip teeth on my servo and change the steering at any and every corner.

Once the correct servo horn was on the car it was in business. Can't wait to get some more track time. This did cause a broken a-arm when coming out of a chicane the car decided to go straight instead of turning! OUCH!

Oh well all is good, the car works and is nice and quiet. Sorry TC4 owners(I am one of those owners.)

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Old 04-24-2005, 01:32 AM   #4304
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In reguards to the Skoda2 body, it's a good rubber tire body, it's more agressive entering corners, and seems to free the car up in the turn compared to the mazda6(which is the "standard for rubber tires"). However with the Skoda2 the car seems to generate a little bit more chassis roll than with the mazda6. All in all it works well, it's Losi's newest body and works well so that's why it's included. I would not reccomend using for foam tires on carpet, for carpet it's all about the Parma Alfa.
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Old 04-24-2005, 01:45 AM   #4305
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Hi guys, my 3700s fits nicely WITHOUT ANY MODIFICATION, you just have to remove the additional shrink wrap from cells and leave only the stock one.......

Consider that a pack with shrink wrap is 3mm longer than one without it
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