Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
#6331
The Evicerator
I've never worn any crocs myself... so I don't have enough first hand experience to say one way or ther other... but somehow a family wearing crocs seems more appealing than a family full of birkenstocks
#6332
When can we expect an EX 17.5 motor?
#6333
The Evicerator
I haven't heard any talk about offering an EX 17.5 ...
Really the only major difference is in the rotor between the EX and the Pro lines.
And no one that I know prefers the bonded rotor over the sintered rotors.
Why exactly would you be interested in an EX 17.5?
Really the only major difference is in the rotor between the EX and the Pro lines.
And no one that I know prefers the bonded rotor over the sintered rotors.
Why exactly would you be interested in an EX 17.5?
#6336
The Evicerator
Heavy,
The 17.5 pro's have had black timing rings just until recently. The latest production batches should now have YELLOW timing rings to signify that they are 17.5s.
13.5's should be easily denoted with the ORANGE timing ring.
Under no circumstance should a 17.5 have an orange ring.
The 17.5 pro's have had black timing rings just until recently. The latest production batches should now have YELLOW timing rings to signify that they are 17.5s.
13.5's should be easily denoted with the ORANGE timing ring.
Under no circumstance should a 17.5 have an orange ring.
#6338
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Steve Thanks to you and Charlie for taking care of the warranty on one of our esc's . Have been way to busy with work and going to Chicago to see Toni graduate from basic to write a proper Thank-You. Hope to see both of you at the Snowbirds again this year. Lynn and Tony Munno
Toni will be in Calif. for the next year, you guys may hear from her.
Toni will be in Calif. for the next year, you guys may hear from her.
#6339
Hey Steve,
Novak GTB in a 2wd off-road buggy, 6 cell nimh battery, novak 8.5 ss pro motor.
Speed control pulsates the throttle untill the speed control codes out and stops responding. The error code is blue solid, amber solid, green and red blinking alternately. Any idea on what is the problem?
Thanks, Mark.
Novak GTB in a 2wd off-road buggy, 6 cell nimh battery, novak 8.5 ss pro motor.
Speed control pulsates the throttle untill the speed control codes out and stops responding. The error code is blue solid, amber solid, green and red blinking alternately. Any idea on what is the problem?
Thanks, Mark.
#6340
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
Hi Steve,
This is my first venture into a brushless system. I just finished putting together a ZX-5 4wd buggy with a GTB SS esc, Velociti 7.5R with a 21t pinion, Orion 3600 Lipo's and is all controlled with a 3PK and a FASST system. Everything aside from the Tx & Rx are brand new and I seem to have ran into a problem with the esc/motor.
The motor only works intermittently. I did the one-touch setup on the esc (program 1 with LiPo cutoff activated) many times and am still having problems. When it runs, it runs great. However, about half the time, when the buggy comes to a stop, it won't start up again. If you lightly push it forward, it will go again - almost like something is binding up. The driveline is completely bind-free and the mesh was set using a piece of paper.
There's no regularly appearing error codes, although a few times the blue and green lights were blinking indicating a possible locked rotor. Could there be a problem with the sensor? ESC? Could my Tx not be setup correctly?
I was hoping to run it this Sunday at OC/RC. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
This is my first venture into a brushless system. I just finished putting together a ZX-5 4wd buggy with a GTB SS esc, Velociti 7.5R with a 21t pinion, Orion 3600 Lipo's and is all controlled with a 3PK and a FASST system. Everything aside from the Tx & Rx are brand new and I seem to have ran into a problem with the esc/motor.
The motor only works intermittently. I did the one-touch setup on the esc (program 1 with LiPo cutoff activated) many times and am still having problems. When it runs, it runs great. However, about half the time, when the buggy comes to a stop, it won't start up again. If you lightly push it forward, it will go again - almost like something is binding up. The driveline is completely bind-free and the mesh was set using a piece of paper.
There's no regularly appearing error codes, although a few times the blue and green lights were blinking indicating a possible locked rotor. Could there be a problem with the sensor? ESC? Could my Tx not be setup correctly?
I was hoping to run it this Sunday at OC/RC. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#6341
The Evicerator
Steve Thanks to you and Charlie for taking care of the warranty on one of our esc's . Have been way to busy with work and going to Chicago to see Toni graduate from basic to write a proper Thank-You. Hope to see both of you at the Snowbirds again this year. Lynn and Tony Munno
Toni will be in Calif. for the next year, you guys may hear from her.
Toni will be in Calif. for the next year, you guys may hear from her.
No problem! We are always glad to help! Hope to see you sometime at the races!
Hey Steve,
Novak GTB in a 2wd off-road buggy, 6 cell nimh battery, novak 8.5 ss pro motor.
Speed control pulsates the throttle untill the speed control codes out and stops responding. The error code is blue solid, amber solid, green and red blinking alternately. Any idea on what is the problem?
Thanks, Mark.
Novak GTB in a 2wd off-road buggy, 6 cell nimh battery, novak 8.5 ss pro motor.
Speed control pulsates the throttle untill the speed control codes out and stops responding. The error code is blue solid, amber solid, green and red blinking alternately. Any idea on what is the problem?
Thanks, Mark.
Hi Steve,
This is my first venture into a brushless system. I just finished putting together a ZX-5 4wd buggy with a GTB SS esc, Velociti 7.5R with a 21t pinion, Orion 3600 Lipo's and is all controlled with a 3PK and a FASST system. Everything aside from the Tx & Rx are brand new and I seem to have ran into a problem with the esc/motor.
The motor only works intermittently. I did the one-touch setup on the esc (program 1 with LiPo cutoff activated) many times and am still having problems. When it runs, it runs great. However, about half the time, when the buggy comes to a stop, it won't start up again. If you lightly push it forward, it will go again - almost like something is binding up. The driveline is completely bind-free and the mesh was set using a piece of paper.
There's no regularly appearing error codes, although a few times the blue and green lights were blinking indicating a possible locked rotor. Could there be a problem with the sensor? ESC? Could my Tx not be setup correctly?
I was hoping to run it this Sunday at OC/RC. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
This is my first venture into a brushless system. I just finished putting together a ZX-5 4wd buggy with a GTB SS esc, Velociti 7.5R with a 21t pinion, Orion 3600 Lipo's and is all controlled with a 3PK and a FASST system. Everything aside from the Tx & Rx are brand new and I seem to have ran into a problem with the esc/motor.
The motor only works intermittently. I did the one-touch setup on the esc (program 1 with LiPo cutoff activated) many times and am still having problems. When it runs, it runs great. However, about half the time, when the buggy comes to a stop, it won't start up again. If you lightly push it forward, it will go again - almost like something is binding up. The driveline is completely bind-free and the mesh was set using a piece of paper.
There's no regularly appearing error codes, although a few times the blue and green lights were blinking indicating a possible locked rotor. Could there be a problem with the sensor? ESC? Could my Tx not be setup correctly?
I was hoping to run it this Sunday at OC/RC. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Are you using lipo or nimh cells with your system...? Are the ESC and motor hot after they run...? It's possible you might have some damage to one or the other... but it's hard to say without looking at it.
#6342
I've been experimenting with drag and push brakes on my GTB. What I'm noticing is that the same numerical setting of drag brake and min (push) brake feels very different on the track. Say I have a drag brake setting of 5. This feels fairly soft / smooth on the track. Then I change settings to drag brakes off and min brake 5. I adjust the transmitter subtrim to where I have min brake with the trigger at neutral. This feels a lot harder. On the track, the car might be unstable when I use this amount of brake at high speed, whereas the car is planted, and decellerates a lot more gradually, with the same amount of drag brake at the same speed.
Is what I'm seeing normal, or do I perhaps have a bad GTB? I have a nearly-new spread-spectrum-optimized GTB. Cheers,
--mark
Is what I'm seeing normal, or do I perhaps have a bad GTB? I have a nearly-new spread-spectrum-optimized GTB. Cheers,
--mark
#6343
The Evicerator
Hi Mark,
I went and spoke with one of the engineers about your observations and it definately seems strange to both of us.
The table in the software that determines the drag brake and the minimum brake is the same... so the same percentages and same brake frequencies should be used regardless if it is "drag brake" or "minimum brake"
He thought that maybe because of the way that your ESC's nuetral point has been moved forward it might give the feeling of stronger brakes because you actually go through a dead band which isn't powering the motor or braking it.
Regardless, if you want to send your ESC in to me with a note referencing this problem we can check it out and I can make sure that it has the latest software installed.
I went and spoke with one of the engineers about your observations and it definately seems strange to both of us.
The table in the software that determines the drag brake and the minimum brake is the same... so the same percentages and same brake frequencies should be used regardless if it is "drag brake" or "minimum brake"
He thought that maybe because of the way that your ESC's nuetral point has been moved forward it might give the feeling of stronger brakes because you actually go through a dead band which isn't powering the motor or braking it.
Regardless, if you want to send your ESC in to me with a note referencing this problem we can check it out and I can make sure that it has the latest software installed.
I've been experimenting with drag and push brakes on my GTB. What I'm noticing is that the same numerical setting of drag brake and min (push) brake feels very different on the track. Say I have a drag brake setting of 5. This feels fairly soft / smooth on the track. Then I change settings to drag brakes off and min brake 5. I adjust the transmitter subtrim to where I have min brake with the trigger at neutral. This feels a lot harder. On the track, the car might be unstable when I use this amount of brake at high speed, whereas the car is planted, and decellerates a lot more gradually, with the same amount of drag brake at the same speed.
Is what I'm seeing normal, or do I perhaps have a bad GTB? I have a nearly-new spread-spectrum-optimized GTB. Cheers,
--mark
Is what I'm seeing normal, or do I perhaps have a bad GTB? I have a nearly-new spread-spectrum-optimized GTB. Cheers,
--mark
#6344
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Hey Steve, got a question about the Sentry, I know the software is only mentioned as compatible with Windows XP & Vista, but has it been tried with any others, like Windows 2000? Reason I ask is becuase my laptop has Win2000, & while I believe I can upgrade it to XP, I'd prefer not to(given how much of a resource hog XP & especially Vista can be). Also, about mounting the Sentry in a car, am I right in thinking that the the "X" & its arrow(the markings on the casing denoting the accelerometers I mean) should point straight forward? Appreciate any help you can give...