Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
03-03-2008, 08:16 AM
#5941
Tech Regular
Steve,
What's the best way to prevent the issue that this guy had with his block and taclke?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=208463
What's the best way to prevent the issue that this guy had with his block and taclke?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=208463
03-03-2008, 08:34 AM
#5942
Well,
Perhaps he shouldn't have engaged in pre-race activities while not racing?
Seriously though... He probably just needs to get some Lava Soap and go to town
Perhaps he shouldn't have engaged in pre-race activities while not racing?
Seriously though... He probably just needs to get some Lava Soap and go to town
Steve,
What's the best way to prevent the issue that this guy had with his block and taclke?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=208463
What's the best way to prevent the issue that this guy had with his block and taclke?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=208463
03-04-2008, 08:36 AM
#5943
someone suggested I post my question here....
I finally got my Novak GTB (purchased new) & 3.5 (purchased used) mounted in my TC. When I first tried to use it my Lipo was low (new and uncharged). It would not spin the motor. Today I charged it up and tried to see if my esc settings were right but it would spin very slow. I went to unplug the battery and the wires were very warm 
I think my 3.5 is bad.
How can I tech the motor to see if it really is bad??
What area (if any) goes bad on these motors??
What else could be causing my battery wires to warm up?
Thanks
I think my 3.5 is bad. How can I tech the motor to see if it really is bad??
What area (if any) goes bad on these motors??
What else could be causing my battery wires to warm up?
Thanks
03-04-2008, 10:32 AM
#5945
Tech Regular
Hi steve.
03-04-2008, 11:11 AM
#5946
Novak Power !
Just wanted to give props to Novak especially Charlie and John for all their help keeping us running this past weekend at the TCS race. Novak power put me and my son in the "A" main in 13.5 class and 10.5 class using Lipo's.
My son TQ'd and won in the GT-1 10.5 class and he was up against some stiff competition but Novak power was just too much for them to handle.
Not sure if this was the right thread to give a speech but I can't say enough about their customer service! Top notch guys! Top notch!
My son TQ'd and won in the GT-1 10.5 class and he was up against some stiff competition but Novak power was just too much for them to handle.
Not sure if this was the right thread to give a speech but I can't say enough about their customer service! Top notch guys! Top notch!
03-04-2008, 12:34 PM
#5947
Hey Rich,
There are a number of things that could be bad that are causing your problems... but I think the one that is most likely is that a coil or coils might be shorted out in your motor if it had been made very hot from the previous owner.
You can take the front endbell off and check to see if the wires look ok physically... if they look burnt or melted...or the plastic near the wires looks melted there's a good chance something is shorted out.
There are a number of things that could be bad that are causing your problems... but I think the one that is most likely is that a coil or coils might be shorted out in your motor if it had been made very hot from the previous owner.
You can take the front endbell off and check to see if the wires look ok physically... if they look burnt or melted...or the plastic near the wires looks melted there's a good chance something is shorted out.
I finally got my Novak GTB (purchased new) & 3.5 (purchased used) mounted in my TC. When I first tried to use it my Lipo was low (new and uncharged). It would not spin the motor. Today I charged it up and tried to see if my esc settings were right but it would spin very slow. I went to unplug the battery and the wires were very warm I think my 3.5 is bad.
How can I tech the motor to see if it really is bad??
What area (if any) goes bad on these motors??
What else could be causing my battery wires to warm up?
Thanks
I think my 3.5 is bad. How can I tech the motor to see if it really is bad??
What area (if any) goes bad on these motors??
What else could be causing my battery wires to warm up?
Thanks
03-04-2008, 12:36 PM
#5948
Great Job!
Your son ran well on Sunday and I'm glad to hear that John was able to help out!
Your son ran well on Sunday and I'm glad to hear that John was able to help out!
Just wanted to give props to Novak especially Charlie and John for all their help keeping us running this past weekend at the TCS race. Novak power put me and my son in the "A" main in 13.5 class and 10.5 class using Lipo's.
My son TQ'd and won in the GT-1 10.5 class and he was up against some stiff competition but Novak power was just too much for them to handle.
Not sure if this was the right thread to give a speech but I can't say enough about their customer service! Top notch guys! Top notch!
My son TQ'd and won in the GT-1 10.5 class and he was up against some stiff competition but Novak power was just too much for them to handle.
Not sure if this was the right thread to give a speech but I can't say enough about their customer service! Top notch guys! Top notch!
03-04-2008, 01:18 PM
#5949
Cuting and mounting a Roar Legal TC body
How exactly do you go from a new clear body in a bag - to a body mounted on a car that is optimal for racing and will also pass Tech Inspection at a Roar sanctioned National event.
I have my own way of struggling with it but it seems like I am doing everything the hard way and the long way.
I was hoping with your experience, you had discovered a better quicker way of doing things.
I have my own way of struggling with it but it seems like I am doing everything the hard way and the long way.
I was hoping with your experience, you had discovered a better quicker way of doing things.
03-04-2008, 01:45 PM
#5950
03-04-2008, 01:45 PM
#5951
03-04-2008, 02:44 PM
#5952
Jonah,
Well, I usually find that it is easiet to mount a body if it is clear... that way you can check for symetry front to back, side to side, etc.
Generally speaking what I do is cut my body out a bit below the trim lines to give myself some fudge factor in case any dimensions are subject (such as the rear bumper mark on the mazda 6 body)
I then will setup my car so that it's ready to run, correct ride height, fully loaded with eletronics, etc but remove the antenna... and then place the body on top of the car so that the body sits on top of the body posts as straight as possible.
I generally trim my body posts so that there's an extra hole above where I actually put my body clips in ... Keeping this extra bit the same front to back will help keep the "rake" of the body approximately correct while you're lining it up in the next steps.
I try to usually line up the front wheels in the front wheel wells that are deliniated by the manufacturer...sometimes these wells are big, sometimes they're small... Most of the time I will try to keep wheels straight and the axle centered in the wheel wells.
Keep in mind that alot of these body molds are NOT perfect...and that one axle might be off when compared to the next one.
Like I said I like to use the front wheel wells as a guidline as to where I mount my body forward or back... but you will need to look at where the rear tires line up as well...some bodies the fenders might be such a way that if you were to cut out the body like that it'd look kind of strange... So I might tweak the forward/back position depending on the body/wheelbase of my car a bit... anticipating that I want to leave myself enough room for when I make setup changes to my car that the body will more or less be able to accomodate them.
IE, if you have the wheelbase of your car set short (front arms moved back, rear arms moved forward) if you mount the body too far back if you try to move the front arms forward you will have to cut out the front of the front wheel wells again
If you leave yourself enough extra space by mounting it more or less in the middle or conservatively, you leave yourself some room for later if you make these types of changes.
Now once you have an idea of where you want your body mounted front to back, here comes the tricky part:
Now you need to get it mounted centered left to right... this part can be tricky as well. Again, don't always trust the mold marks 100%... they can be good guides but sometimes they are off.
I like to push the sides of the wheel wells in against the axles and kind of "feel" the distance that I need to push them in and use that as a guide to center the body that way...all the while trying not to move the body front to back.
At this point once you're happy with where the body is front to back and side to side, I use a sharpie and mark the centers of the body posts on the body... now is also a good time to mark the antenna hole as well
To be continued!
Well, I usually find that it is easiet to mount a body if it is clear... that way you can check for symetry front to back, side to side, etc.
Generally speaking what I do is cut my body out a bit below the trim lines to give myself some fudge factor in case any dimensions are subject (such as the rear bumper mark on the mazda 6 body)
I then will setup my car so that it's ready to run, correct ride height, fully loaded with eletronics, etc but remove the antenna... and then place the body on top of the car so that the body sits on top of the body posts as straight as possible.
I generally trim my body posts so that there's an extra hole above where I actually put my body clips in ... Keeping this extra bit the same front to back will help keep the "rake" of the body approximately correct while you're lining it up in the next steps.
I try to usually line up the front wheels in the front wheel wells that are deliniated by the manufacturer...sometimes these wells are big, sometimes they're small... Most of the time I will try to keep wheels straight and the axle centered in the wheel wells.
Keep in mind that alot of these body molds are NOT perfect...and that one axle might be off when compared to the next one.
Like I said I like to use the front wheel wells as a guidline as to where I mount my body forward or back... but you will need to look at where the rear tires line up as well...some bodies the fenders might be such a way that if you were to cut out the body like that it'd look kind of strange... So I might tweak the forward/back position depending on the body/wheelbase of my car a bit... anticipating that I want to leave myself enough room for when I make setup changes to my car that the body will more or less be able to accomodate them.
IE, if you have the wheelbase of your car set short (front arms moved back, rear arms moved forward) if you mount the body too far back if you try to move the front arms forward you will have to cut out the front of the front wheel wells again
If you leave yourself enough extra space by mounting it more or less in the middle or conservatively, you leave yourself some room for later if you make these types of changes.
Now once you have an idea of where you want your body mounted front to back, here comes the tricky part:
Now you need to get it mounted centered left to right... this part can be tricky as well. Again, don't always trust the mold marks 100%... they can be good guides but sometimes they are off.
I like to push the sides of the wheel wells in against the axles and kind of "feel" the distance that I need to push them in and use that as a guide to center the body that way...all the while trying not to move the body front to back.
At this point once you're happy with where the body is front to back and side to side, I use a sharpie and mark the centers of the body posts on the body... now is also a good time to mark the antenna hole as well
To be continued!
How exactly do you go from a new clear body in a bag - to a body mounted on a car that is optimal for racing and will also pass Tech Inspection at a Roar sanctioned National event.
I have my own way of struggling with it but it seems like I am doing everything the hard way and the long way.
I was hoping with your experience, you had discovered a better quicker way of doing things.
I have my own way of struggling with it but it seems like I am doing everything the hard way and the long way.
I was hoping with your experience, you had discovered a better quicker way of doing things.
03-04-2008, 03:01 PM
#5953
Now that you have your body marked for where you're going to drill the holes I use a *sharp* reamer to slowly ream out the holes.
Generally I will only do each hole a little bit at a time until they just start to slide over the body posts... this way if one hole is a little off you still have time to sort of work the reamer over in the direction you need to go without making the hole too gross looking or too big
I like to make it so that the body will just "fall" onto the posts and that once it's on if it's given a little lift up it will fall right back to where it was...
This way it ensures you that the body isn't tweaking the car at all and if you hit anything such as a corner dot, curb, etc, it will more than likely just upset the body of the car and not the car itself
I always try to leave some free space for the body to wiggle up and down a bit for this reason.
Now that the body is mounted if you left too much of the body left underneath the trim lines it will be a good time to trim them now.
The "sharpie trick" seems to work pretty well.. you run the sharpie allong the bottom edge of the body while the car's on a flat surface and this gives you a straight line to cut the body on.
Incidentally if you see that this sharpie line is WAY off of where the bottom body lines are I would encourage you to change your body post holes so that the molded lines are more or less the same as the sharpie line. This is two fold, if the sharpie and the body line are far off, your body height may be off and any excessive rake will cause the car to handle oddly.
If your body's rake was far off to begin with it might cause the body to "catch" on the body posts now. If this is the case I recommend just using an exacto knife to sort of "scratch" the body hole open slightly until it is free on the body post again.
This will ensure that you don't have too much forward or backwards rake in the body too..while it's a valuble tuning tool having too much one way or the other will definately handicap you.
Ok, now your body is mounted flat and square on the car, it's free on the body posts...it's time to cut out the wheel wells!
I usually take an old tire and line it up with the axles on the car... you might want to put your template tire on "backwards" so that the hex is facing out so that you can more easily line up the axle with the hole in the rim.
I then take a sharpie and trace along the outside edge of the tire.
Next, I get some good curved scissors, and cut allong the outside of this line as a starting point.
After the initial cut, press the sides of the body in to see where the body will catch on the tires and remove little bits as necessary, all the while trying to retain the "roundness" of the wheel well at it's top half... at the bottom half I generally cut it down more straight because when the car is actually running the tires generally have a way of going down at full droop and this can catch your body as well as at ride height.
Also be sure to turn your front tires from side to side and see if it will catch badly as well.
I usually try to radius the edges where the wheel well meets the bottom edges of the body to just smooth things out and lower the chances of a sharp edge catching on my tire.
To be continued!
Generally I will only do each hole a little bit at a time until they just start to slide over the body posts... this way if one hole is a little off you still have time to sort of work the reamer over in the direction you need to go without making the hole too gross looking or too big
I like to make it so that the body will just "fall" onto the posts and that once it's on if it's given a little lift up it will fall right back to where it was...
This way it ensures you that the body isn't tweaking the car at all and if you hit anything such as a corner dot, curb, etc, it will more than likely just upset the body of the car and not the car itself
I always try to leave some free space for the body to wiggle up and down a bit for this reason.
Now that the body is mounted if you left too much of the body left underneath the trim lines it will be a good time to trim them now.
The "sharpie trick" seems to work pretty well.. you run the sharpie allong the bottom edge of the body while the car's on a flat surface and this gives you a straight line to cut the body on.
Incidentally if you see that this sharpie line is WAY off of where the bottom body lines are I would encourage you to change your body post holes so that the molded lines are more or less the same as the sharpie line. This is two fold, if the sharpie and the body line are far off, your body height may be off and any excessive rake will cause the car to handle oddly.
If your body's rake was far off to begin with it might cause the body to "catch" on the body posts now. If this is the case I recommend just using an exacto knife to sort of "scratch" the body hole open slightly until it is free on the body post again.
This will ensure that you don't have too much forward or backwards rake in the body too..while it's a valuble tuning tool having too much one way or the other will definately handicap you.
Ok, now your body is mounted flat and square on the car, it's free on the body posts...it's time to cut out the wheel wells!
I usually take an old tire and line it up with the axles on the car... you might want to put your template tire on "backwards" so that the hex is facing out so that you can more easily line up the axle with the hole in the rim.
I then take a sharpie and trace along the outside edge of the tire.
Next, I get some good curved scissors, and cut allong the outside of this line as a starting point.
After the initial cut, press the sides of the body in to see where the body will catch on the tires and remove little bits as necessary, all the while trying to retain the "roundness" of the wheel well at it's top half... at the bottom half I generally cut it down more straight because when the car is actually running the tires generally have a way of going down at full droop and this can catch your body as well as at ride height.
Also be sure to turn your front tires from side to side and see if it will catch badly as well.
I usually try to radius the edges where the wheel well meets the bottom edges of the body to just smooth things out and lower the chances of a sharp edge catching on my tire.
To be continued!
03-05-2008, 02:22 AM
#5954
Hi Steve,
My friend gave me an early generation Novak GTB with a 4.5R motor. The ESC is water damaged, so I was planning on mailing it out to Novak for a replacement/servicing. I don't think that the motor was affected by the water incident, though.
Do you think it would be safe to hook up that 4.5R motor to a different GTB without replacing it or somehow testing it? Or should I send that back along with the ESC?
Thanks,
Ken
My friend gave me an early generation Novak GTB with a 4.5R motor. The ESC is water damaged, so I was planning on mailing it out to Novak for a replacement/servicing. I don't think that the motor was affected by the water incident, though.
Do you think it would be safe to hook up that 4.5R motor to a different GTB without replacing it or somehow testing it? Or should I send that back along with the ESC?
Thanks,
Ken
03-05-2008, 08:53 AM
#5955
The reason I ask is I've recently seen temps on the center of the motor can as high as 200 with an exergen temp gun. The black plastic end bell was around 185 / 190. That was with a new 10.5 The gearing was good enough to stay up with a factory drivers brushed 19T. If anything the 10.5 had just a little more acceleration and top speed. I fiqured the speedo would have already shut the motor down.....