Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
09-08-2007, 01:08 PM
#5251
Tech Adept
GTB brushed settings
Steve
Can you recommend a good starting profile for 19T motor on the GTB 4 cell for 1/12th scale? I will be getting 1 this winter understand it is fully adjustable in brushed mode?
Cheers in advance
Stu
Can you recommend a good starting profile for 19T motor on the GTB 4 cell for 1/12th scale? I will be getting 1 this winter understand it is fully adjustable in brushed mode?
Cheers in advance
Stu
09-09-2007, 10:48 PM
#5252
Stuart,
The brushed mode is completely adjustable but there is only one brushed profile... but don't let that discourage you... the profile is completely adjustable!
for starters I'd probably keep most everything default except the drive frequency which I'd probably start out at 2.5 kHz ... if you want more aggressive response than even that set it to 1.5 kHz.
The brushed mode is completely adjustable but there is only one brushed profile... but don't let that discourage you... the profile is completely adjustable!
for starters I'd probably keep most everything default except the drive frequency which I'd probably start out at 2.5 kHz ... if you want more aggressive response than even that set it to 1.5 kHz.
09-09-2007, 10:50 PM
#5253
Well it depends if you ahve the sintered rotor or not... if you have the standard 12.3 mm sintered rotor I'd recommend about a 4.5 - 5.0 FDR depending on the layout.
If you have only the bonded rotor I'd gear a little shorter... around a 6.0
I wouldn't expect the gearing to be different with a GTB or a SS...but performance will overall be better with the GTB.
If you have only the bonded rotor I'd gear a little shorter... around a 6.0
I wouldn't expect the gearing to be different with a GTB or a SS...but performance will overall be better with the GTB.
09-09-2007, 10:51 PM
#5254
Chris,
Well the other part of the equation is that the ESC has the software enabled...
TO see if you ahve the lipo software simply hold the button down while the ESC is on and let it scroll through the color combinations...
Red and Yellow at the same time is for lipo cut off... one blink is off...two blinks is on
Well the other part of the equation is that the ESC has the software enabled...
TO see if you ahve the lipo software simply hold the button down while the ESC is on and let it scroll through the color combinations...
Red and Yellow at the same time is for lipo cut off... one blink is off...two blinks is on
. Is it safe to say that a GTB(not the 4 cell version) with this circuitry has the software or should I send it in and have it checked before using with a li-po first?
09-09-2007, 11:15 PM
#5255
I believe that our current receivers are using 18 inches of 26 awg wire.... I would think that your 22 will be too big... but if you're not interested in replacing the whole thing then maybe it will work in a pinch.
Just to let you all know, I will be an official Novak fan very soon. Expecting a GTX in the mail...
Anywho, now that it is all in order, I looked at my RX that i got in a trade. The length is about 7 inches, and the wire is stripped. I was thinking to replace the whole wire, but I think I want to just solder another wire onto the end of this wire. However, I don't know what gauge to use. I was going to take the wire from my RTR receiver/esc unit, but i want to keep that in working order just in case.
What gauge wire should I use for the RX wire? I have plenty of 22 gauge--will that work?
Anywho, now that it is all in order, I looked at my RX that i got in a trade. The length is about 7 inches, and the wire is stripped. I was thinking to replace the whole wire, but I think I want to just solder another wire onto the end of this wire. However, I don't know what gauge to use. I was going to take the wire from my RTR receiver/esc unit, but i want to keep that in working order just in case.
What gauge wire should I use for the RX wire? I have plenty of 22 gauge--will that work?
09-10-2007, 03:11 AM
#5256
Well, just completed and interesting event. I didnt manage to finish a race. The gliching that I spoke of before was still evident, I changed receivers, and even changed the ESC to another GTB but still had the glitching, until I changed to a completely different radio system. The glitching appears to have stopped, however I then found I could not get run time.
Steve,
I need to know what the GTB's timing setting is for use with the Novak 4.5 & 3.5, Orion 3.5 and LRP 3.5. I was using the Orion 3.5 on the weekend and managed a best of around 3 and half minutes before my batteries started to dump. Im running 5 cell mod. I did some reading and found that I need to know what the timing setting for the speedy is. The LRP has a timing setting of 2, so the LRP 3.5 comes set on 2, Im thinking that I may need to adjust the timing on the different brushless motors I have to match the speedy to allow me to make run time.
Does this sound right or can you offer another reason for not being able to make run time. I ended up being geared at 8.70:1 where as a competitor was apparently geared at 8.30:1 and had no probs making run time with 5 cells.
my batteries are in great shape and there was no normal run time problems evident, such as binidng, gearing mistakes or the like.
Thanks in advance
Aaron
Steve,
I need to know what the GTB's timing setting is for use with the Novak 4.5 & 3.5, Orion 3.5 and LRP 3.5. I was using the Orion 3.5 on the weekend and managed a best of around 3 and half minutes before my batteries started to dump. Im running 5 cell mod. I did some reading and found that I need to know what the timing setting for the speedy is. The LRP has a timing setting of 2, so the LRP 3.5 comes set on 2, Im thinking that I may need to adjust the timing on the different brushless motors I have to match the speedy to allow me to make run time.
Does this sound right or can you offer another reason for not being able to make run time. I ended up being geared at 8.70:1 where as a competitor was apparently geared at 8.30:1 and had no probs making run time with 5 cells.
my batteries are in great shape and there was no normal run time problems evident, such as binidng, gearing mistakes or the like.
Thanks in advance
Aaron
09-10-2007, 12:41 PM
#5258
Hey Aaron,
Actually with our system all the timing is set in the motor... the ESC does not advance or retard the timing.
LPR and a few others are playing tricks with advancing the timing slightly under certain circumstances to get a little bit more top RPM out of the motors but our system does not do this thus far.
Our motors are usually set with a pretty conservative timing already... almost as far reduced as possible with the 3.5 ... and at a low/mid setting with the 4.5 and everything else.
To reduce the timing you will losen the three 1/16th screws on the back of the motor and turn the timing ring (ring with the slots) clockwise. The edge of the adjustment should occur right when the slot meets up with the solder tab for the
A phase.
At most events we have been running mid timing on the 3.5s and a FDR or about 8.5 for medium/largeish tracks with the 13.0 mm rotor... with the 12.3 mm rotor I'd probably recommend about a 9.0.
I hope this can help get you back on track!
Actually with our system all the timing is set in the motor... the ESC does not advance or retard the timing.
LPR and a few others are playing tricks with advancing the timing slightly under certain circumstances to get a little bit more top RPM out of the motors but our system does not do this thus far.
Our motors are usually set with a pretty conservative timing already... almost as far reduced as possible with the 3.5 ... and at a low/mid setting with the 4.5 and everything else.
To reduce the timing you will losen the three 1/16th screws on the back of the motor and turn the timing ring (ring with the slots) clockwise. The edge of the adjustment should occur right when the slot meets up with the solder tab for the
A phase.
At most events we have been running mid timing on the 3.5s and a FDR or about 8.5 for medium/largeish tracks with the 13.0 mm rotor... with the 12.3 mm rotor I'd probably recommend about a 9.0.
I hope this can help get you back on track!
Well, just completed and interesting event. I didnt manage to finish a race. The gliching that I spoke of before was still evident, I changed receivers, and even changed the ESC to another GTB but still had the glitching, until I changed to a completely different radio system. The glitching appears to have stopped, however I then found I could not get run time.
Steve,
I need to know what the GTB's timing setting is for use with the Novak 4.5 & 3.5, Orion 3.5 and LRP 3.5. I was using the Orion 3.5 on the weekend and managed a best of around 3 and half minutes before my batteries started to dump. Im running 5 cell mod. I did some reading and found that I need to know what the timing setting for the speedy is. The LRP has a timing setting of 2, so the LRP 3.5 comes set on 2, Im thinking that I may need to adjust the timing on the different brushless motors I have to match the speedy to allow me to make run time.
Does this sound right or can you offer another reason for not being able to make run time. I ended up being geared at 8.70:1 where as a competitor was apparently geared at 8.30:1 and had no probs making run time with 5 cells.
my batteries are in great shape and there was no normal run time problems evident, such as binidng, gearing mistakes or the like.
Thanks in advance
Aaron
Steve,
I need to know what the GTB's timing setting is for use with the Novak 4.5 & 3.5, Orion 3.5 and LRP 3.5. I was using the Orion 3.5 on the weekend and managed a best of around 3 and half minutes before my batteries started to dump. Im running 5 cell mod. I did some reading and found that I need to know what the timing setting for the speedy is. The LRP has a timing setting of 2, so the LRP 3.5 comes set on 2, Im thinking that I may need to adjust the timing on the different brushless motors I have to match the speedy to allow me to make run time.
Does this sound right or can you offer another reason for not being able to make run time. I ended up being geared at 8.70:1 where as a competitor was apparently geared at 8.30:1 and had no probs making run time with 5 cells.
my batteries are in great shape and there was no normal run time problems evident, such as binidng, gearing mistakes or the like.
Thanks in advance
Aaron
Last edited by Steve Weiss; 09-10-2007 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Brain malfunction!
09-10-2007, 01:47 PM
#5261
Shookie!
I am doing alright!
Work has been keeping me busy as well as preparations for these big races!
Taking another course right now at night...so that's another thing to keep me busy!
Hope that you're feeling better man! Hopefully now that it's cooled down a few degrees things are better for you too!
I am doing alright!
Work has been keeping me busy as well as preparations for these big races!
Taking another course right now at night...so that's another thing to keep me busy!
Hope that you're feeling better man! Hopefully now that it's cooled down a few degrees things are better for you too!
09-10-2007, 01:48 PM
#5262
09-10-2007, 01:48 PM
#5263
09-10-2007, 02:01 PM
#5264
I've been testing them all lately. I really like LRP's with the fat sintered rotor. I imagine the Novak will feel he same with the 13mm rotor. The Orion so far has no grunt, no drag brake and feels like a light switch. It's the worst feeling brushless I've ever used. I'll keep messing with it and see if I can sort things out.
09-10-2007, 02:12 PM
#5265
Or you can just put your Novak in with a 13.0 mm rotor and be super dialed! 
I've been testing them all lately. I really like LRP's with the fat sintered rotor. I imagine the Novak will feel he same with the 13mm rotor. The Orion so far has no grunt, no drag brake and feels like a light switch. It's the worst feeling brushless I've ever used. I'll keep messing with it and see if I can sort things out.
