Originally Posted by crazydave
I have a Spread Spektrum GTB and it keeps getting rotor lock ( the motors still spin freely though) , i have tried 3 different motors and keep getting the same result. I read on the internet that one of the "phases" might not be working to cause this? I have more than 1 GTB and i was thinking of using it for brushed, would this problem stop if i set up the speedy for brushed motors? I'm also thinking of sending it back for repair. Thanks in advance
It's possible that one of power phases in the ESC is not working properly with this sort of behavior.
Setting it up for brushed motors will not "Fix" the problem is there are bad transistors... it will just sort of cover it up because in brushed mode more transistors are used for the motor drive function and it will be unlikely that you could detect the lack of performance.
Either situation however will probably result in an eventual total unit failure if you continue to run it indefinately.
Have you gone to different batteries lately by chance? Are you sure that the motor sensor harnesses are plugged in properly to the ESC?
If you're sure of the batteries and connections, it is a good idea to send it in for service.
Originally Posted by rough512
Hi Steve ;
Thanks for your reply via email. I just wanted to post the question here to see whether others have experienced what I have.
My GTB thermalled twice using another motor brand 13.5T. Now one of my friends says it's all downhill once a GTB thermals. The motor was overgeared at that time
1. Is this true?
2. The esc smells like the adhesive from a bandage tape. Is it possible to visually check for any fried fets under the heatsink? Is the smell any indication of a fried component?
Thanks as usual.
I think I remember the email but I don't recall exactly what I recommended to you... but this is what comes to mind:
If you have overgeared a motor and it caused a motor failure, it is likely that the shorted motor could damage the ESC as well.
The thermal shut off function is in the ESC to try to protect it from being damaged so that you CAN run it even after it's been thermaled.
There are situations however where the damage occurs too fast for the thermal shutdown software to work, such as in the case of severe motor overgearing or if shorting to a motor occurs.
If you suspect that your ESC is damaged I would recommend you send it in to us for inspection instead of trying to carry it out yourself.
Originally Posted by buffalobill989
i have a situation where i switched the rec in my car. everything is plugged in. when i turn on the switch, the red & green light light up on the side of the speedo. the steering works but no throttle. when i try to reset the speed control to the radio and push the button on the switch, the lights goto light blue and start going thru a sequence of all the colors. what does this mean? i dont think it has the cutoff but im not sure. is there a way to tell if it does? thanks.
Are you sure that you have the ESC plugged into the correct channel on the new receiver?
Be sure that the plug is connected correctly as well... usually this means having the black receiver plug wire facing the outside of the receiver.
The solid red and green LEDs are an indicator that the ESC is not getting any signal and this is usually a simple connection error.
To reset the ESC you need to turn it off, then press and hold the button down, then turn it back on while holding the button.
Pressing and holding the button down while the ESC is still on will result in you going into profile programming like you described.