Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
09-09-2008, 12:57 PM
#6466
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
So does the Havoc really fit between the gtb---and xbr or beneath the Xbr?
What's the street price going to cost for the Havoc (not retail
). I was going to try the Xbr but with the GTB being a few more bucks with no limit for motors, it was a no brainer for me for what one to choose. Why was it decided to offer it with a 8.5 motor? If its more geared for people looking for a cheaper option, is this geared more to the basher crowd? Will the Esc be offered as a stand alone like the GTB? Sorry for all the questions, was starting to look for a brushless system for my son. I have the GTB and have been fairly happy with it but the cost to me was the reason I am debating about switching my son over to the GTB or waiting for a another season.
Dynodan22
What's the street price going to cost for the Havoc (not retail
). I was going to try the Xbr but with the GTB being a few more bucks with no limit for motors, it was a no brainer for me for what one to choose. Why was it decided to offer it with a 8.5 motor? If its more geared for people looking for a cheaper option, is this geared more to the basher crowd? Will the Esc be offered as a stand alone like the GTB? Sorry for all the questions, was starting to look for a brushless system for my son. I have the GTB and have been fairly happy with it but the cost to me was the reason I am debating about switching my son over to the GTB or waiting for a another season.Dynodan22
09-09-2008, 01:04 PM
#6467
09-09-2008, 02:23 PM
#6468
The Havoc is similar to the XBR in performance.
I believe the street price should be about $140 and to my knowledge it is only to be offered in a combo.
It is aimed more at entry level customers who are looking to upgrade their RTR cars.
I believe the street price should be about $140 and to my knowledge it is only to be offered in a combo.
It is aimed more at entry level customers who are looking to upgrade their RTR cars.
09-09-2008, 03:30 PM
#6469
The description on the Novak web site talks about the "small footprint" of the speed control, but the specs give a footprint that's the same as a GTB and XBR. Is this a mistake in the specs, or just your marketing department at work?
The description mentions a shielded sensor cable -- what sort of shield is it and what are its benefits? Is this shield a feature of all new Novak BL motors, or is it specific to this combo?
What's the clear plastic thingy just to the right of the pins for the receiver harness and fan connectors? The button?
The auto-detection of brushed motors is a Very Good Thing; I wish my GTB's had it. Any chance of a software upgrade for the GTB?
09-09-2008, 04:13 PM
#6470
Mark,
In regards to offering more combos with other motors I don't believe we are planning on offering them at this point in time... but they could always change their mind and make a change.
The footprint statement: No mistake... just marketing at work... smaller than some of the other ESCs out there
The sensor cable is sheilded with an aluminum foil and covered with an insulator to keep the wires bundled together cleanly, but also protect them from damage.
All of our motors now come with this sheilded sensor harness.
The clear part you are referencing is a lense which covers the LEDs and also protects the switch button.
Regarding auto detect brush mode for the GTB I think you might have to wait a while on this type of function.
In regards to offering more combos with other motors I don't believe we are planning on offering them at this point in time... but they could always change their mind and make a change.
The footprint statement: No mistake... just marketing at work... smaller than some of the other ESCs out there
The sensor cable is sheilded with an aluminum foil and covered with an insulator to keep the wires bundled together cleanly, but also protect them from damage.
All of our motors now come with this sheilded sensor harness.
The clear part you are referencing is a lense which covers the LEDs and also protects the switch button.
Regarding auto detect brush mode for the GTB I think you might have to wait a while on this type of function.
A street price of $140 is very attractive, but only if you need an 8.5 motor. I know that most of the market is bashers, but it would be great for *racing* if Novak would offer combos with the SS 13.5, 17.5, and 21.5. For instance, a Havoc/21.5 combo would give a boost to Vintage Trans-Am racing, and a Havoc/17.5 combo would give a boost to stock class racing. What are the chances of these combos?
The description on the Novak web site talks about the "small footprint" of the speed control, but the specs give a footprint that's the same as a GTB and XBR. Is this a mistake in the specs, or just your marketing department at work?
The description mentions a shielded sensor cable -- what sort of shield is it and what are its benefits? Is this shield a feature of all new Novak BL motors, or is it specific to this combo?
What's the clear plastic thingy just to the right of the pins for the receiver harness and fan connectors? The button?
The auto-detection of brushed motors is a Very Good Thing; I wish my GTB's had it. Any chance of a software upgrade for the GTB?
The description on the Novak web site talks about the "small footprint" of the speed control, but the specs give a footprint that's the same as a GTB and XBR. Is this a mistake in the specs, or just your marketing department at work?
The description mentions a shielded sensor cable -- what sort of shield is it and what are its benefits? Is this shield a feature of all new Novak BL motors, or is it specific to this combo?
What's the clear plastic thingy just to the right of the pins for the receiver harness and fan connectors? The button?
The auto-detection of brushed motors is a Very Good Thing; I wish my GTB's had it. Any chance of a software upgrade for the GTB?
09-09-2008, 08:03 PM
#6472
Steve,
I just tried e-mailing Charlie my my e-mail bounced back as being undeliverable.
Has his address changed?
Also, when will there be a new version of speed control to replace the GTB. I know you guys are always working on something so I thought that with the TC worlds in a few months you might release something soon.
Thanks
I just tried e-mailing Charlie my my e-mail bounced back as being undeliverable.
Has his address changed?
Also, when will there be a new version of speed control to replace the GTB. I know you guys are always working on something so I thought that with the TC worlds in a few months you might release something soon.
Thanks
09-09-2008, 11:02 PM
#6473
If the higher-ups feel there's a need for a havoc-17.5 combo there's a chance it could become a reality
Charlie's address is still [email protected] ... where is your email address at...? we sometimes have trouble with "free" email providors.
As far as a new GTB replacement goes I highly doubt that anything would be ready for the Worlds... but we will keep working
As far as a new GTB replacement goes I highly doubt that anything would be ready for the Worlds... but we will keep working
Steve,
I just tried e-mailing Charlie my my e-mail bounced back as being undeliverable.
Has his address changed?
Also, when will there be a new version of speed control to replace the GTB. I know you guys are always working on something so I thought that with the TC worlds in a few months you might release something soon.
Thanks
I just tried e-mailing Charlie my my e-mail bounced back as being undeliverable.
Has his address changed?
Also, when will there be a new version of speed control to replace the GTB. I know you guys are always working on something so I thought that with the TC worlds in a few months you might release something soon.
Thanks
09-11-2008, 02:06 PM
#6475
Hi Steve,
I've bought myself a GTB and a 13.5 pro and am running it in TC with rubber on carpet, 10 sec laps, and I'm new to brushless so I'm hoping for some help.
I was originally geared at 5.9, and the motor seemed to stutter on power a bit on the infield. The car didn't slow down, when it stuttered, just sounded wrong. Temp of the motor after a run was fine.
I geared up to 5.7 and the lap time was the same but the motor came off quite hot.
I geared down to 6.1 and the stuttering has gone and the car feels quite quick on the infield and is just about as fast on the straight as anyone, but the starts are rubbish. I've lost 2 meters (6-7 feet) by turn 1.
I've reduced the deadband to 2, and incresed the minimum drive to 12% with seemingly little effect. The motor timing is standard, which when I've checked it is a bit less than half way between max and min.
Do you think I've got anything wrong- or have you got any tips?
Cheers, Chris.
I've bought myself a GTB and a 13.5 pro and am running it in TC with rubber on carpet, 10 sec laps, and I'm new to brushless so I'm hoping for some help.
I was originally geared at 5.9, and the motor seemed to stutter on power a bit on the infield. The car didn't slow down, when it stuttered, just sounded wrong. Temp of the motor after a run was fine.
I geared up to 5.7 and the lap time was the same but the motor came off quite hot.
I geared down to 6.1 and the stuttering has gone and the car feels quite quick on the infield and is just about as fast on the straight as anyone, but the starts are rubbish. I've lost 2 meters (6-7 feet) by turn 1.
I've reduced the deadband to 2, and incresed the minimum drive to 12% with seemingly little effect. The motor timing is standard, which when I've checked it is a bit less than half way between max and min.
Do you think I've got anything wrong- or have you got any tips?
Cheers, Chris.
09-11-2008, 03:19 PM
#6476
Hi Chris!
Sounds like you are having an interesting situation there!
The track must definately be small... Most of the time guys out here run around a 4.5 to 4.75 FDR on our smallish tracks.
When you say the motor is getting hot, how hot is it? Do you have a temp sensor you are using...?
I would also recommend to double check your sensor harness connections along with your motor power wire connections.
Check to make sure that your motor doesn't have excessive endplay as well...as this can sometimes cause problems with commutation which can lead to cogging.
Sounds like you are having an interesting situation there!
The track must definately be small... Most of the time guys out here run around a 4.5 to 4.75 FDR on our smallish tracks.
When you say the motor is getting hot, how hot is it? Do you have a temp sensor you are using...?
I would also recommend to double check your sensor harness connections along with your motor power wire connections.
Check to make sure that your motor doesn't have excessive endplay as well...as this can sometimes cause problems with commutation which can lead to cogging.
Hi Steve,
I've bought myself a GTB and a 13.5 pro and am running it in TC with rubber on carpet, 10 sec laps, and I'm new to brushless so I'm hoping for some help.
I was originally geared at 5.9, and the motor seemed to stutter on power a bit on the infield. The car didn't slow down, when it stuttered, just sounded wrong. Temp of the motor after a run was fine.
I geared up to 5.7 and the lap time was the same but the motor came off quite hot.
I geared down to 6.1 and the stuttering has gone and the car feels quite quick on the infield and is just about as fast on the straight as anyone, but the starts are rubbish. I've lost 2 meters (6-7 feet) by turn 1.
I've reduced the deadband to 2, and incresed the minimum drive to 12% with seemingly little effect. The motor timing is standard, which when I've checked it is a bit less than half way between max and min.
Do you think I've got anything wrong- or have you got any tips?
Cheers, Chris.
I've bought myself a GTB and a 13.5 pro and am running it in TC with rubber on carpet, 10 sec laps, and I'm new to brushless so I'm hoping for some help.
I was originally geared at 5.9, and the motor seemed to stutter on power a bit on the infield. The car didn't slow down, when it stuttered, just sounded wrong. Temp of the motor after a run was fine.
I geared up to 5.7 and the lap time was the same but the motor came off quite hot.
I geared down to 6.1 and the stuttering has gone and the car feels quite quick on the infield and is just about as fast on the straight as anyone, but the starts are rubbish. I've lost 2 meters (6-7 feet) by turn 1.
I've reduced the deadband to 2, and incresed the minimum drive to 12% with seemingly little effect. The motor timing is standard, which when I've checked it is a bit less than half way between max and min.
Do you think I've got anything wrong- or have you got any tips?
Cheers, Chris.
09-12-2008, 12:08 AM
#6477
Steve, you said that if the higher ups feel the need to release the havok with a different motor, then they will.
Now wouldnt the havok coupled with a 21.5 be a nice turn key option for a "spec" crowd (vta, oval pan, ect). Maybe you could get in there ear. lol
Now wouldnt the havok coupled with a 21.5 be a nice turn key option for a "spec" crowd (vta, oval pan, ect). Maybe you could get in there ear. lol
09-12-2008, 09:22 AM
#6479
Steve,
Why does the rain in Spain fall mainly on the plains?
Why does the rain in Spain fall mainly on the plains?
09-13-2008, 06:48 PM
#6480
Tried asking via email but I must get caught in the spam filter because I never get answers, so maybe you can help.
I have a Super Sport Plus ESC that is toasted. If I send it in for non-warranty service (replacement with a RMF XBR), what is the minimum that needs to be included? I assume I can take off the wires (so I can use them for something else). Can I also take off the heat sink? I have a use for it on another ESC.
I've been told the heat sink can't be removed without damaging the speed control, but since it is toast anyway, that doesn't make any difference to me. The question is: does it make a difference to Novak?
Second question: Is there any difference in the replacement cost for a 17.5 if I have the older, non-ribbed can, vs the ribbed can? And does it matter that the shaft is broken on the rotor?
I have a Super Sport Plus ESC that is toasted. If I send it in for non-warranty service (replacement with a RMF XBR), what is the minimum that needs to be included? I assume I can take off the wires (so I can use them for something else). Can I also take off the heat sink? I have a use for it on another ESC.
I've been told the heat sink can't be removed without damaging the speed control, but since it is toast anyway, that doesn't make any difference to me. The question is: does it make a difference to Novak?
Second question: Is there any difference in the replacement cost for a 17.5 if I have the older, non-ribbed can, vs the ribbed can? And does it matter that the shaft is broken on the rotor?