Steve Weiss

Adrian,

Your XBR should be ok with the 8.5 SS w/ sintered rotor. As far as an FDR goes... I'd start out around 6.5 or so depending on your track size.

Good luck!

As far as I'm aware there's no rule saying you cannot run a receiver pack in your touring car

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

eeeeeeeeeeeEEEEEEEEEEEoooooooohhhhhhhhwwwwwwWWWWOO OOOooooPPP!

Steve Weiss

Thanks J type!

Get your shocks all figured out?

CaliberX

iTrader: (4)

Steve,

Would fitting a Pelletier(sp) motor cooler on a 13.5 and precooling before a race have a marked advantage in your opinion?

Thanks
V

Steve Weiss

Well, when it comes to electronics cooler is usually better.

What you have to ask yourself is if you are noticing performance drop in your motor towards the later half of the run that are not associated with your battery pack falling off.

Does the motor feel sluggish off of corners...or do the brakes feel weaker as the run goes on... and when you come back do you have tons of run time left?

If so using a motor cooler will help keep your motor running more consistantly throughout the run... the total change in temperature over the run will probably be about the same... but if you start the motor off cooler it might not reach a higher temp that will cause the symptoms I mentioned earlier.

I do not recommend cooling your motor down and gearing up again to get back up into higher temperatures... The higher current draw will simply get you higher temperatures and pretty much back to where you started out

scarecrow

Hello STEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEVVVVVEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!

Question???????????????? Besides chasing Squirals.

Cooling motors with these new deep freeze unit thats are out.
Have you done any testing to what might be happening to the rotor magnet?
With the two differant metals,One the rotor, Two the magnet, will they seperate from each other?

Steve Weiss

I've done track testing of cooling the motors with a pretty standard motor cooler... I have seen some that are MUCH bigger/stronger than the one I use... and I can't really comment on how they work being as that I really haven't used one extensively.

I don't think that there would be any harm in using these coolers... they are going to cool the motor down slow enough that it's not going to "shock" any of the metal parts inside into cracking or fatiguing... at least I wouldn't think so.

The problem might occur on the other side...when you are running the motor... under normal conditions I can't forsee problems...but if you're running the motor in an "abusive" manner... there possibly may be.

As far as the rotor materials... the magnet itself is a sintered neodymium compound ...and the hub material (with the shaft) is a steel compound. They are held together with a high temperature bonding agent (glue).

scarecrow

Thanks Steve, The reason I ask is I've seen two rotors come together on a pit table and saw that one of the rotor crack the magnet off the shaft.
It spilt the magnet exposing the shaft.
I've used super high temps and subzero temps to weld parts together before,
but with "the with a high temperature bonding agent (glue)" I didn't know if they would come apart or not.
Thanks.
Hope to see you at the Birds again this year.

Kenny

Steve Weiss

Yeah, sometimes if the rotors snap together like that they can break... The magnetic material itself is relatively brittle and should be handled carefully.

I hope to see you at the Birds too! We'll see what happens!!

birdman

Steve,

I just bought a used novak 3.5 motor. The motor seem to work fine only problem is the power it gives out is less than a friend's new novak 3.5 motor which is geared same as mine. Friend's motor has better punch and top speed. He is also using a GTB (like me too) and he is using old unmatched batteries (me using lipo). Wonder whether by changing the rotor, will it bring back the motor's previous glory? How is the performance of the 13mm rotor?

Thanks.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

If you put in the 13mm rotor and you're on a pretty decent size track I love a 9.4 FDR if you keep the stock rotor in I'd go with 10.1 ................but Steve is the motor guy so wait for his insrtuctions.

Steve Weiss

birdman,

It's hard to say... but is your friend running the same rotor as you...? If he's running a 13.0 mm it might run different than your motor.

What are you guys geared?

Are you running 5 or 6 cell?

birdman

My friend is running the original rotor like me....we are geared at 10.36..he is running a 6 cell and me a lipo...is the 13mm faster and better punch ..and by changing the rotor...will it bring the power back to the motor?

thanks

bigb11

iTrader: (59)

Steve, I have a 17.5 system and I want to run it in my pro2. with a stock motor I run 122/40, what should I try with the brushless?
thanks

Steve Weiss

It's possible that your rotor might not be as strong as his... you can either try swapping it with a new 12.3 mm rotor or upgrade to the 13.0 mm rotor...but if you go to the 13.0 mm rotor you have to gear up two teeth on your pinion.

I'm not sure... if you can find me the internal drive ratio of your car I can figure it out from there...but more than likely you're going to have to gear up on the pinion some more.