Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
#6196
What is the estimated release date for the Mongoose? By estimated I mean summer, fall winter or spring (northern hemisphere)?
#6197
The Evicerator
Well a rotor that gives a higher gauss reading generally tends to "pull harder" than a rotor with a lower reading. Meaning that you could "gear it up" more and it would pull the gear better in most situations.
Honestly though whenever you are looking at numbers like that you have to remember that the numbers are relative to the meter you are using only.
I'd say it's probably a good rotor... but without measuring your current rotor with that exact meter you will never know exactly "how much better" it is.
Honestly though whenever you are looking at numbers like that you have to remember that the numbers are relative to the meter you are using only.
I'd say it's probably a good rotor... but without measuring your current rotor with that exact meter you will never know exactly "how much better" it is.
Steve,
I was looking at ebay for a spare rotor for my 3.5 and came across this bizarre listing on ebay
So the question is, compared to normal rotor. What would be the advantage to having a rotor like that?
I was looking at ebay for a spare rotor for my 3.5 and came across this bizarre listing on ebay
So the question is, compared to normal rotor. What would be the advantage to having a rotor like that?
#6198
The Evicerator
#6199
A local tack guy measured my 4 rotors and all were between the 1230 and 1290 range.
#6200
Tech Rookie
hi Steve, can you help me with my novak 10.5 motor's gearing? I've send you a mail but your mail Steve@.... doesn't work...
#6202
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Steve - Will the NOV5465 5-Amp Universal BEC work with a 2S Lipo receiver pack, Airtronics M11 2.4GHz receiver, and 3 servos for use in a large scale vehicle? The 3 offerings from Novak seem like they all do nearly the same thing. Which would be the best for this application? Also, when is Novak going to release a Voltage Cutoff and Voltage Regulator in one package?
#6203
The Evicerator
#6204
The Evicerator
Hiya Ryo,
Generally I tell people to start out around 5.5 and go up from there if temperatures allow for it.
You always want to keep your motor running under 170 degrees!
Generally I tell people to start out around 5.5 and go up from there if temperatures allow for it.
You always want to keep your motor running under 170 degrees!
#6206
The Evicerator
Hey Tony,
That particular unit will probably be the best choice for your application.
As far as having a BEC/Lipo Cut off we do have a BEC/lipo monitor... which doesn't cut off... but if there is enough demand for an actually BEC/Cutoff I'm sure it could be done pretty easily with what we already have designed.
I will bring up your request and see what happens!
That particular unit will probably be the best choice for your application.
As far as having a BEC/Lipo Cut off we do have a BEC/lipo monitor... which doesn't cut off... but if there is enough demand for an actually BEC/Cutoff I'm sure it could be done pretty easily with what we already have designed.
I will bring up your request and see what happens!
Steve - Will the NOV5465 5-Amp Universal BEC work with a 2S Lipo receiver pack, Airtronics M11 2.4GHz receiver, and 3 servos for use in a large scale vehicle? The 3 offerings from Novak seem like they all do nearly the same thing. Which would be the best for this application? Also, when is Novak going to release a Voltage Cutoff and Voltage Regulator in one package?
#6207
The Evicerator
#6208
Shock Assembly (new to xray)
Hey Steve can you share your expertise on the following?
When assembling the shocks, there are two small o rings, one thinner one that goes around the base of the shock body and the thicker one on the piston shaft.
Do you build your shocks without the o-ring that goes on the piston shaft? What difference does this make?
Also are there any advantages to using the aluminum shocks?
Thanks,
Phillip
When assembling the shocks, there are two small o rings, one thinner one that goes around the base of the shock body and the thicker one on the piston shaft.
Do you build your shocks without the o-ring that goes on the piston shaft? What difference does this make?
Also are there any advantages to using the aluminum shocks?
Thanks,
Phillip
#6209
The Evicerator
Hey Philip,
I always build my shocks up with both orings.
The o-ring on the shaft is necessary to "seal" the shock and keep the oil inside the shock... if you used the shock without that oring I believe all the oil would find its way out very quickly!
Sometimes setup-sheets are kind of difficult to decipher, but I believe what they are referencing is using an extra o-ring on the shock shaft *outside* of the shock body between the shock body and the eyelet for some added dampening near full compression.
I always build my shocks up with both orings.
The o-ring on the shaft is necessary to "seal" the shock and keep the oil inside the shock... if you used the shock without that oring I believe all the oil would find its way out very quickly!
Sometimes setup-sheets are kind of difficult to decipher, but I believe what they are referencing is using an extra o-ring on the shock shaft *outside* of the shock body between the shock body and the eyelet for some added dampening near full compression.
Hey Steve can you share your expertise on the following?
When assembling the shocks, there are two small o rings, one thinner one that goes around the base of the shock body and the thicker one on the piston shaft.
Do you build your shocks without the o-ring that goes on the piston shaft? What difference does this make?
Also are there any advantages to using the aluminum shocks?
Thanks,
Phillip
When assembling the shocks, there are two small o rings, one thinner one that goes around the base of the shock body and the thicker one on the piston shaft.
Do you build your shocks without the o-ring that goes on the piston shaft? What difference does this make?
Also are there any advantages to using the aluminum shocks?
Thanks,
Phillip
#6210
Thanks
Thanks for the clarification Steve! That makes sense, I was just confused by the setup sheet. I had not read anything about using an extra o-ring on the outside.