Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
03-05-2008, 09:48 AM
#5956
I would give the motor a thourough looking at before I hooked it up to anything... IE, take the front end bell off, check both bearings, look at the winds and check for debris inside hte motor.
Look inside at the sensor assembly, make sure it doesn't look like it has been corroded.
Once you're satisfied everything in the motor looks ok I'd say it's probably safe to hook up to another ESC and test.
For the most saftey and caution though I would send it back to us as a system to give the whole thing a once over...we might be able to catch something you miss.
Look inside at the sensor assembly, make sure it doesn't look like it has been corroded.
Once you're satisfied everything in the motor looks ok I'd say it's probably safe to hook up to another ESC and test.
For the most saftey and caution though I would send it back to us as a system to give the whole thing a once over...we might be able to catch something you miss.
Hi Steve,
My friend gave me an early generation Novak GTB with a 4.5R motor. The ESC is water damaged, so I was planning on mailing it out to Novak for a replacement/servicing. I don't think that the motor was affected by the water incident, though.
Do you think it would be safe to hook up that 4.5R motor to a different GTB without replacing it or somehow testing it? Or should I send that back along with the ESC?
Thanks,
Ken
My friend gave me an early generation Novak GTB with a 4.5R motor. The ESC is water damaged, so I was planning on mailing it out to Novak for a replacement/servicing. I don't think that the motor was affected by the water incident, though.
Do you think it would be safe to hook up that 4.5R motor to a different GTB without replacing it or somehow testing it? Or should I send that back along with the ESC?
Thanks,
Ken
03-05-2008, 04:47 PM
#5957
I know Novak offers trade-in services...
IF i wanted to trade my 13.5 (i have two, one is the older smooth can with sintered rotor and the other is the newer ribbed can with sintered rotor) for a 17.5, if possible, is there a charge invovled to do such a trade?
IF i wanted to trade my 13.5 (i have two, one is the older smooth can with sintered rotor and the other is the newer ribbed can with sintered rotor) for a 17.5, if possible, is there a charge invovled to do such a trade?
03-07-2008, 09:30 AM
#5958
Steve,
What's your prefered Lipo battery charger/ blancer?
Thanks,
E
What's your prefered Lipo battery charger/ blancer?
Thanks,
E
03-07-2008, 11:16 AM
#5959
Hey Syber,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
You can check out all the details on our trade in plan here:
http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/web_opti...dex_motor.html
But the long and short of it is that if you want to trade your motor in for another one depending on what you trade in it will probably be $40-50 to exchange your motor for a new 17.5
Hope this helps!
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
You can check out all the details on our trade in plan here:
http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/web_opti...dex_motor.html
But the long and short of it is that if you want to trade your motor in for another one depending on what you trade in it will probably be $40-50 to exchange your motor for a new 17.5
Hope this helps!
03-07-2008, 11:22 AM
#5960
Eric,
I really haven't done a bunch of testing on alot of different chargers... but we use FMA Scorpion 2S chargers and we have a couple Hyperion EOS 5idp's
They both seem to get the job done and we haven't had any problems with them...
We tend to prefer the FMA charger because it has a balance plug.
I really haven't done a bunch of testing on alot of different chargers... but we use FMA Scorpion 2S chargers and we have a couple Hyperion EOS 5idp's
They both seem to get the job done and we haven't had any problems with them...
We tend to prefer the FMA charger because it has a balance plug.
03-07-2008, 11:57 AM
#5961
Ok, thanks,
E
E
Eric,
I really haven't done a bunch of testing on alot of different chargers... but we use FMA Scorpion 2S chargers and we have a couple Hyperion EOS 5idp's
They both seem to get the job done and we haven't had any problems with them...
We tend to prefer the FMA charger because it has a balance plug.
I really haven't done a bunch of testing on alot of different chargers... but we use FMA Scorpion 2S chargers and we have a couple Hyperion EOS 5idp's
They both seem to get the job done and we haven't had any problems with them...
We tend to prefer the FMA charger because it has a balance plug.
03-07-2008, 12:11 PM
#5962
I took a closer look at the motor and a transistor fell out 
Going by that my guess is it over heated and the hall effect sensor died, without the sensor maybe mt esc was getting a bad feedback and caused my wires to warm up / almost like a short.
Looks like I need a new 3.5, will pick up new this time
Going by that my guess is it over heated and the hall effect sensor died, without the sensor maybe mt esc was getting a bad feedback and caused my wires to warm up / almost like a short.Looks like I need a new 3.5, will pick up new this time
Hey Rich,
There are a number of things that could be bad that are causing your problems... but I think the one that is most likely is that a coil or coils might be shorted out in your motor if it had been made very hot from the previous owner.
You can take the front endbell off and check to see if the wires look ok physically... if they look burnt or melted...or the plastic near the wires looks melted there's a good chance something is shorted out.
There are a number of things that could be bad that are causing your problems... but I think the one that is most likely is that a coil or coils might be shorted out in your motor if it had been made very hot from the previous owner.
You can take the front endbell off and check to see if the wires look ok physically... if they look burnt or melted...or the plastic near the wires looks melted there's a good chance something is shorted out.
03-07-2008, 12:16 PM
#5963
Tech Regular
I took a closer look at the motor and a transistor fell out Going by that my guess is it over heated and the hall effect sensor died, without the sensor maybe mt esc was getting a bad feedback and caused my wires to warm up / almost like a short.
Looks like I need a new 3.5, will pick up new this time
Going by that my guess is it over heated and the hall effect sensor died, without the sensor maybe mt esc was getting a bad feedback and caused my wires to warm up / almost like a short.Looks like I need a new 3.5, will pick up new this time
03-07-2008, 01:36 PM
#5965
Hey Syber,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
You can check out all the details on our trade in plan here:
http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/web_opti...dex_motor.html
But the long and short of it is that if you want to trade your motor in for another one depending on what you trade in it will probably be $40-50 to exchange your motor for a new 17.5
Hope this helps!
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
You can check out all the details on our trade in plan here:
http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/web_opti...dex_motor.html
But the long and short of it is that if you want to trade your motor in for another one depending on what you trade in it will probably be $40-50 to exchange your motor for a new 17.5
Hope this helps!
but yuck. Any RMF 17.5's ready yet?
03-07-2008, 02:59 PM
#5966
03-07-2008, 03:47 PM
#5968
03-11-2008, 07:50 AM
#5969
Ole Weiss one, once again I come to you for knowledge. What is the differance in the conventional GTB and the "Spread Spectrum" version? I notice people seem to only want the newer version. Please explain if other than on paper there truly is a differance. because now I'm starting to feel confused about them. Thanks again, Paco.
03-11-2008, 07:57 AM
#5970
It is my understanding that the Spread Spectrum versions, since they are only supposed to be used with 2.4GHz radios, can switch the FETs faster. Doing this with a normal 27MHz or 75MHz radio will cause a lot of interference/glitching. I assume that the faster switching speed causes unwanted harmonics at the radio frequency.