Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
#4951
The Evicerator
I originally posted this in another thread, but realized this is a better place to ask....
I've been racing my XXX-S locally with a GTB/13.5(bonded) setup. I had all the usual issues -- ran too hot until I geared down to around 6.2 FDR with rubber tires and finally got the temps down to around 150-160 (90+ F degree weather)...
SO - Tonight I replaced the rotor with a sintered rotor... (I've worked with brushed motors for 18 years or so, and I'm spoiled with having my Turbo Dyno 45 to allow me to test motors, etc.) When I first tested the converted motor (ONLY on the workbench so far) -- I thought I'd done something wrong... It sounded so SLOW compared to the way the bonded rotor sounded... Fully installed in the car, I realize it's working fine, but MAN! it sure is different! Before, the drag brakes (even manually applied brakes) were WEAK -- drag brake was almost unnoticable! NOW - ZAP! it appears to act almost like a brushed motor...
In reading about gearing recommendations, I always thought the sintered rotor versions "allowed" taller gearing -- now I am starting to think they MUST HAVE taller gearing to achieve the same speed...?
I'm guessing I will need to go from 6.2 FDR (bonded) to around 5.0 FDR (sintered) for our relatively small parking lot track with rubber tires...?
I won't get to track test until Sunday at the next HobbyTown races, so I want to make sure I'm understanding this right...?
Your thoughts?
I've been racing my XXX-S locally with a GTB/13.5(bonded) setup. I had all the usual issues -- ran too hot until I geared down to around 6.2 FDR with rubber tires and finally got the temps down to around 150-160 (90+ F degree weather)...
SO - Tonight I replaced the rotor with a sintered rotor... (I've worked with brushed motors for 18 years or so, and I'm spoiled with having my Turbo Dyno 45 to allow me to test motors, etc.) When I first tested the converted motor (ONLY on the workbench so far) -- I thought I'd done something wrong... It sounded so SLOW compared to the way the bonded rotor sounded... Fully installed in the car, I realize it's working fine, but MAN! it sure is different! Before, the drag brakes (even manually applied brakes) were WEAK -- drag brake was almost unnoticable! NOW - ZAP! it appears to act almost like a brushed motor...
In reading about gearing recommendations, I always thought the sintered rotor versions "allowed" taller gearing -- now I am starting to think they MUST HAVE taller gearing to achieve the same speed...?
I'm guessing I will need to go from 6.2 FDR (bonded) to around 5.0 FDR (sintered) for our relatively small parking lot track with rubber tires...?
I won't get to track test until Sunday at the next HobbyTown races, so I want to make sure I'm understanding this right...?
Your thoughts?
I have heard most people seem to have success in the 4.5 to 5.0 FDR ranges with sintered rotors.
#4952
The Evicerator
Very nice Mr. Dawson!
As far as the sintered rotor is concerned, yes, it is a smaller diameter than the bonded rotor.
As far as the sintered rotor is concerned, yes, it is a smaller diameter than the bonded rotor.
#4954
#4955
#4956
Im not sure I can gear my car low enough my smallest spur and largest pinion combo 118/42 only gets me to 5.14 FDR
#4957
The Evicerator
You should be ok with that 5.14 gearing...like I said it's just ballpark estimate.
#4958
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Hi Steve,
here is the problem i have right now when i using Novak SS13.5 with the combination of Nosram ISTC spec(similiar to LRP TC spec) throttle profile 2-8-2-2, FDR gear is 4.56, radio brake EPA 60%, i have very good braking at the begining of race but after 3 min race or qualifying the motor seem to be having fade brake until i can feel my car totally no brake at all, and i did check the temp was around 160F and also i did put a novak 30X30mm fan to blow the motor to keep the temp down it should't happen like that! some more is new i just got it from towerhobbies. thanks
here is the problem i have right now when i using Novak SS13.5 with the combination of Nosram ISTC spec(similiar to LRP TC spec) throttle profile 2-8-2-2, FDR gear is 4.56, radio brake EPA 60%, i have very good braking at the begining of race but after 3 min race or qualifying the motor seem to be having fade brake until i can feel my car totally no brake at all, and i did check the temp was around 160F and also i did put a novak 30X30mm fan to blow the motor to keep the temp down it should't happen like that! some more is new i just got it from towerhobbies. thanks
#4959
The Evicerator
You got the 13.5 Pro with the sintered rotor? If not you need to gear down quite a bit to keep the motor cooler
If you have the sintered rotor you might want to gear down a tooth or two just in case.
Also, how hot is your ESC getting?
I think that the punch/speed setting of 8 might be a bit much... I would tone it down to about 4 or so... that setting they are playing with causes extra current draw and that might be what is causing your brake fade.
If you have the sintered rotor you might want to gear down a tooth or two just in case.
Also, how hot is your ESC getting?
I think that the punch/speed setting of 8 might be a bit much... I would tone it down to about 4 or so... that setting they are playing with causes extra current draw and that might be what is causing your brake fade.
Hi Steve,
here is the problem i have right now when i using Novak SS13.5 with the combination of Nosram ISTC spec(similiar to LRP TC spec) throttle profile 2-8-2-2, FDR gear is 4.56, radio brake EPA 60%, i have very good braking at the begining of race but after 3 min race or qualifying the motor seem to be having fade brake until i can feel my car totally no brake at all, and i did check the temp was around 160F and also i did put a novak 30X30mm fan to blow the motor to keep the temp down it should't happen like that! some more is new i just got it from towerhobbies. thanks
here is the problem i have right now when i using Novak SS13.5 with the combination of Nosram ISTC spec(similiar to LRP TC spec) throttle profile 2-8-2-2, FDR gear is 4.56, radio brake EPA 60%, i have very good braking at the begining of race but after 3 min race or qualifying the motor seem to be having fade brake until i can feel my car totally no brake at all, and i did check the temp was around 160F and also i did put a novak 30X30mm fan to blow the motor to keep the temp down it should't happen like that! some more is new i just got it from towerhobbies. thanks
#4960
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
You got the 13.5 Pro with the sintered rotor? If not you need to gear down quite a bit to keep the motor cooler
If you have the sintered rotor you might want to gear down a tooth or two just in case.
Also, how hot is your ESC getting?
I think that the punch/speed setting of 8 might be a bit much... I would tone it down to about 4 or so... that setting they are playing with causes extra current draw and that might be what is causing your brake fade.
If you have the sintered rotor you might want to gear down a tooth or two just in case.
Also, how hot is your ESC getting?
I think that the punch/speed setting of 8 might be a bit much... I would tone it down to about 4 or so... that setting they are playing with causes extra current draw and that might be what is causing your brake fade.
#4961
The Evicerator
I'm baaaaaaaaaaack
#4963
#4964
The Evicerator
Aid,
You can turn the throttle trim back so that you're actually sitting in the brake side ...but it will change the throttle response a bit and make it so that it's not linear... you will actually have no response through the deadband until you reach the minimum drive again.
You can turn the throttle trim back so that you're actually sitting in the brake side ...but it will change the throttle response a bit and make it so that it's not linear... you will actually have no response through the deadband until you reach the minimum drive again.
#4965
Tech Fanatic
EWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPPP PPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....DUH!