Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Thats why the parma was popular because it had the high end bypass built into it, although we used the second wiper method more effectively. Most of the time the heat problem was caused by lack of good spring tension in the wiper arm itself, but we never ran any of the resisters with the turbo coolers.

As a side note, after looking at your car, I remembered that one of the "trick" items on that car was aluminum 4-40 screws on the top side of the motor pod.

Also I believe the copper tubed axle was made by TRC.

TracySlatten

Yes, the second wiper on top is what I'm planning on too. The packaged resistor pic shows the tab that was bent over for that option. That is the trick to getting them to work properly, good tension but still smooth and flat. The wiper button needs to be flattened, not the rounded shape it has on the contact patch of the resistor when they are new. You can also flat spot the back side of the wiper button so that when the button trails off the last band it does so all at once, not a tappering contact patch with stock round button.

Thanks again for the input guys, I'm sure I will have a question or two about what to do with the rear spring thing/rubbber hose/or what? Maybe a shock?
I'll shoot the pics of the throttle setup sometime later this week, quite a bit of work actually. Hopefully I get a few laps in before it smokes
T

TracySlatten

Getting a little father along now! I have added most of the radio components, added blue AE themed hardware, and roughed in the streering arrangement. The Futaba radio is an FP-T 2F AM 75Mhz, pure analog stuff here. The car side is Novak NES1A servos and a NER-2S receiver.

I had to change the wiring in the transmitter to reverse my steering servo thow to reverse throw. Novak servos are either "normal" or "reverse". I had 2 normal throw servos, so rather than change the servo wires around it was easier to change the radio. Now right is right. After that I centered the steering servo feedback pot and aligned the servo saver up to the radio trim centerline, done with the radio on and screw driver down the servo output shaft. Now center is center. The antenna mount is a stock 12L piece dyed black, yellow pushrod, and black rubber tip. I still have to add the trim pot for steering dual-rate adjustment to the radio.
T

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Wow! Nice Futaba box wheel radio. That thing is mint. Where did you find that? Are you gonna run that radio using the throttle levers or are you gonna throw on a Parma pistol grip mod on it?

TracySlatten

I found the radio here in Seattle, new. I started racing with this radio without the parma mod (add slot car controller handle to the back) and I am comfortable to holding the radio as is. I have held other radios with the pistol grip mod and they felt front heavy with trigger offset like an airtronics now...I went to a Kraft (KO) pistols next and then airtronics, until now. I am going to give it a go without adding the mod, for now. The thottle servo is oppisite in that config too...pushing for throttle instead of pulling. (I think, as I remember)

I am searching now for a novak 21 spline disc... or arm to complete the throttle setup, I have the resistor support from the parma frame almost done, but no disc/arm for the throttle servo.

V12

iTrader: (1)

Got a Kyosho Impress R951 like this http://www.rc-car-museum.de/1_12_Mod...ess_r_951.html but without wheels.
Someone has an english version of the manual or know the part number for the wheel set?

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

I have lots of wheels, drop me e-mail and we can work something out.
I have two of these and spent months trying to get it work. Horrible car.
Anyway here is the parts list and let me know if you need the manual for the carpet option.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Got one also. Never built it. Just left it NIB. Maybe its a good thing I never built it.

TracySlatten

I recently sorted through some tires and matched up some rims. Contact cement and laquer thinner, mmmm. After that, true em up, and back onto the car; ride height is about 4mm.

Next, a before and after pic of the parma slot frame. I have a little shaping to do, but the resistor is ready to position soon. I made the barrel heat sink fit the resistor, then opened the parma mount holes up to match. After I come up with a servo arm I can locate everything.

With the sanyo 1200's and fresh tires, the chassis flex and suspension feels soft and smooth!

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

A new baby... I'm waiting for her in the next days....

Schumacher C-Car. Spec after 1986 Euros, from the front beam, should be 1987/88...





I never had this in the proper time (I've had Delta, Asso, Alpha...) so I'm not exactly "mad" for it. Thought was interesting to have it and maybe use it a trade for more interesting items....

I know some one here might be interested in....

dalolyn

iTrader: (1)

This is an estate I acquired I am trying to identify the cars I also have some 1/12 bodys uncut clear.

InspGadgt

First one looks like a Trinity Revolver 12 of some variation...not sure which

Bob-Stormer

iTrader: (8)

dropped ya a pm.

LonnyJ1950

Bob probably gave you the low down, but the one in the first picture is the original Trinity Revolver 12. Pic 2 looks like a 1/10TH Delta Super Villain. A rare car. Looks like you also have a Delta 1/12TH Super Spyder, also a rare car. In the last picture I see several Associated 12Es and several I can't identify.

tazfam2

iTrader: (54)

does anyone know who and if they make a 1 cell saddle pack for a t plate 1/12 scale Thanks for the help