V12

iTrader: (1)

Very nice Plazma. I have a MK III too, just build never raced.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Thanks.

This one was a full option version less the graphite axle. I was lucky to get a couple of the graphite chassis for the Mk III a while back. Finally found the time to put it together with all the other pieces I've collected through the years. It has the machined aluminum motor plates.

TracySlatten

YR, Did any companies make much in after-market parts for Kyosho's? And are you able to re-tread those type of rims with anything today?

T

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Back in those days, aftermarket parts for Kyosho 1/12 kits were impossible to come by state side. There might have been parts available in Japan but if there were any, it was unknown in the US.

In the past I have put TRC donuts on Kyosho wheels. A little tight but it worked.

camlchris

Do u need a graphite axle ? Pls PM me if u need.

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

Would love to see pics of the Advanced Racing Technologies Aggitator 12! I used to have a custom "lucas" version with a trued axle, lightened delrin diff hubs and all kinds of sick mods.

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

Found some pics! Forgot about that Google thing for a minute...

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

My dad lived in Asheville, NC about 25 years ago, and I remember he brought home a box with a few pan cars that look like these, I remember him saying they raced on carpet, well on our carpet they only did doughnuts, lol. (I was like 7). They wanted over 1,000 for the setup back then and it seemed useless to us, funny how I ended up racing them 20 years later.

TracySlatten

Some assembly required: I touched up the holes on the bottom of the chassis with a countersink tool today and now the stock screws sit flat! I started with some of the better screws left over from the previous disassembly session (I'm recycling) to attach the rear motor mount and left side axle support.

The black dye worked its magic again. The wheels turned out sweet! from left to right; ae front 12L ;ae rear 12l ;stock ae 12e,12i ;trc/delta front. The choice is clear, the upper set is what I'm going with, 12L. (super light aaannnd fragile) When I compared the wheels, the stock 12e wheels, although look a million times better in black, are too clunky(smaller dia as well). The trc's are fine,common,fairly strong,and look great on any car. However, I'm going to try the lightweight rims. They are the same or nearly the same as the parma rims (in orange) I remember at around the same time.

The rear mounts had a choice of 2 different bearings, huge earlier bearings and smaller later bearings with spacers. Again I'm going with lighter setup. The last pic is pickled rims and tires before dye.

TracySlatten

Let's lighten up OK! Check out post #126, (page 9) Tony's font cross brace is cut down to a tooth pick. The whole car is drilled out, but was common for the 12i. The first pic is a stock cross brace and a racer modified brace from one of the wreckers. It was not done very well but you get the idea; Anyone with an old car drilled holes everywhere. I did. Oh yeah...don't touch it, just drive it! Stock will be fine with me this time around.

The second pic is the radio tray posts and front end arms. I matched up springs (.016 AE,soft) and put on the spindles, axles, and kingpins. Luckily the last guys already pre-threaded the nylon for me. The new nylon parts where no fun, at all, as a 13 yr old.
These went together very smooth this time.

I took the pile of stock gold screws that usually have gouges and scrapes the gave them a quick sand on a belt sander across the face, then sharpied the faces black. It's called "quick" anodizing. I saved some cost/time while using the pefectly fine screws.

The last is pic are rear axles of different makeups. The top 2 show graphite all the way across the axle, which are light compared to the stock metal shaft axle. The third is a an aluminum ended axle. The last shows brass/graphite axle and clearly an aftermarket with high quality fine grain graphite material for the axle. I'll check fit for each and decide on which; all could work.

On a side note: the same post #126 shows Bud's(Clines) parma panther with dyed black body posts, see the white nylon showing through where the edges where rounded down after dye process. Post 62# (page 5) shows it better.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Didn't see a pic of it, but the one thing missing from your car is that big white plastic front bumper. The car looks much better without it, but it sure did save front arms.

Did you get any of the "keyhole" chassis in your stash of parts?

TracySlatten

Johnny,

I never really ran bumpers in 12th and still don't. I like the look without a bumper too, so I left it off. I have never heard the "keyhole" term? related to the 12i? Here is a pic from the land of forgotten 12i parts. I haven't seen these bronze oil-lite bushings for years until I started breaking down the rims and tires recently. The motor thumb-wheel and the stock tie-rods are gone too.

T

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Maybe those where for the 12e cars. (keyhole). I have a bunch of those thumb wheel adjusters and bushings in a junk drawer too, I don't think I ever saw a person use either of them.

Nice build, should look nice when you're done.

TracySlatten

OK, I've been up 36 hrs straight and it's starting to look like a car! For the most part I have used parts from the 4 wreckers till now. I had already decided this would be a "resistor car" and I am at a point where I can start getting a look as to what to do now. I have been on the hunt for just the right resistor's on and off now for a few years. The lower the ohm value the quicker the throttle response. As I recall, .8 or 1 ohm is about right for 12th stock.

This first pic shows the variety of resistors in different Ohm values that might be used. From top down: A Stock throttle setup right out of a bone stock car with weathering, the coating cracked and flaked. Next, stock but in oringinal shape, good for a restore. After that a off-road setup, with a full throttle bypass tab at the full throttle position.

This next one, is "theee one" I look for when I think of any chance of having a reliable, run for a season car. It's is the same as the rc10 stockers, and aftermarket Parma in a green ceramic coating. It holds up much better than the yellow and orange resistors. The green coating had the moniker of "wet coated" , I think from Parma labels. They are closer to the right ohm value for hotter motors and definitely hold the bands from popping off the ceramic barrel when they get hot during a run or two. The next looks similar but is not fully coated between bands, not sure why.

Now smaller ultra-lite ones. I would guess that these were used on 1/18 stuff and tried with frustration on 12th cars. If you get a hotter motor it is tough the get the little resistor to hang in there for very long. They burn up in a flash. The top little guy is a double barrel, pretty uncommon, the next is a single with the green coating, and is AE/Parma. The last is the tamiya resistor. It has excellent quality, but does not mount through the middle but on the tabs. If you where to try to run a small one, the Tamiya would be my choice. Otherwise, for the shelf car, any one will do.

The second pic is my old group 15 controller. It has the parts I need for the next step. It has a double barrel wet resistor, anyone who hot rodded MRC rough riders or rc10s with mods ran these resitors, only without the offset barrels like the slot controller. I'm going to use one of the Parma heat sinks and a cut up internal aluminum frame of the controller produce the resistor mount. I won't tear this controller up, but will find a black framed one to modify. The wipers are still available from parma and I'll need 2 or 3.
(Think mod 12th is fast, try a group 27/open car on a big track, that's fast)

The third pic is the car mocked up with the brass ended axle, 32P gear, rims, top motor plate, rubber o-ring axle spacers, front rims/bearings, radio tray, and resistor with heatsink. I still need black frame for the mount, but you can see where this is headed.

The last pic shows the countersunk screws in the radio tray from a suggestion posted ealier, looks sweet and low profile! Both the tray posts and body posts holes are done. Thanks Lonny and countersink tool!

LonnyJ1950

Actually, we ran the light ones like the one in the Parma package. To make it last just be sure you get all the way off the narrow bands with the wiper button at full throttle. We rigged a second wiper over the full throttle band to trap the moving wiper and maintain firm contact. It is surprising how little time you spend at part throttle, especially in stock. My friend Tim Neja actually reversed his and used the long end for brake and the short end for throttle to get quicker response.