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Old 12-12-2013, 01:02 PM   #901
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Just an FYI for those who have requested them the 1s saddle packs have been re-released by Speedzone. Get those t-bar cars back on the road
http://www.speedzoneusa.com/estore/i...92979c197879e3
Thanks for the heads up. I hava a Kawada that has been sitting waiting for this to happen.

Christmas has tightned my budget for now. Hopefully it will still be available after the holidays are over.
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:06 PM   #902
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I've lost interest in collecting NIB vintage 1/12 kits.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...1-12-kits.html

I've decided to let them go. If you're interesed PM me your offer.
Kits are still available. PM an offer if anyone is interested.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:10 AM   #903
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Just found this thread by accident. What great information and love all the photos. Please keep it going.
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:46 PM   #904
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In need of a T-Bar for a 1/10 Delta Villian. Trying to refurbish one with a IFS Font End.

I also have a 1/12 Delta Super Spyder with a custom chassis made with Vintage Trinity Sparkle Graphite using a Team Associated L4 Front End.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:09 AM   #905
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Originally Posted by ECHOLogic View Post
In need of a T-Bar for a 1/10 Delta Villian. Trying to refurbish one with a IFS Font End.

I also have a 1/12 Delta Super Spyder with a custom chassis made with Vintage Trinity Sparkle Graphite using a Team Associated L4 Front End.
Hi, I have the Villian T bar and interested to trade with your sparkle chassis. Pls. send me PM. Tks
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:56 PM   #906
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Hummm doesn't sound like a fair trade. Lol Sorry but I already found a source for parts. I did have A large panel I made two chassis and then tried to sell the panel a few years a go with no luck so I gave it away to good customer of the store I work at. I do have the first cut chassis but it does have minor splinters from the bit cutting at the wrong speed. The chassis is not cut to the match the original. It works with a last generation associated front end. When I get the time I'll post a picture on the thread Of the modified Super Spyder

Chris
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:19 PM   #907
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C car on the track with modern ESC & BL motor
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:25 PM   #908
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C car on the track with modern ESC & BL motor

Classic 1/12th-c-car.jpg

Testing SPC on the track:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPsjTeco6fs


jpg.gif IMG_0202b.jpg (161.5 KB)
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Classic 1/12th-img_0202b.jpg  

Last edited by camlchris; 06-04-2014 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:39 PM   #909
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Default Modified Delta Super Spyder

Here's a pic of a Delta Super Spyder that I modified several years ago. I do still have the original chassis, front beam, hubs and axle... Plus a few spare parts.

Chris
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:44 AM   #910
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Hey guys. I'm restoring an old Bolink Renegade. I'm trying to locate a speed resistor. Anyone know how I might find one like this?
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:37 PM   #911
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Hey guys. I'm restoring an old Bolink Renegade. I'm trying to locate a speed resistor. Anyone know how I might find one like this?
perhaps at a hobby shop where they race and or sell slot cars. your resisitor looks alot like the resistors that are used in slot car hand controllers.
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:19 PM   #912
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Hey guys. I'm restoring an old Bolink Renegade. I'm trying to locate a speed resistor. Anyone know how I might find one like this?
Contact Rick at RJ Speed
I'd bet he was the guy who designed the Renegade during his time at BoLink. He may not have anything in stock but might be able to point you in the right direction.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:19 AM   #913
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Default Adjusting Tie-Rods - Kyosho Fantom EP - Easier Way?

Hi All,
I've decided to turn my 'shelf queen' Fantom into a runner. The car is in pristine condition, but since I've acquired an NIB version, I've decided to hit the road with this one. Anyway, I recall struggling with this exact problem back in the late 80s when working on my old Plazmas. There has to be a better way to adjust these tie-rods than sticking one end in a vice and twisting the ball-end with a pair of pliers. The brute-force method works, but when I'm done the ball-end looks like the dog tried to eat it. I just can't twist them into the right size by hand, it just requires too much force. I'm wondering if anyone's found a more elegant solution to share. I have several more to adjust.

Here's my chewed-up tie-rod:


Any advice appreciated!

Thanks.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:22 AM   #914
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Originally Posted by sundevil67 View Post
Hi All,
I've decided to turn my 'shelf queen' Fantom into a runner. The car is in pristine condition, but since I've acquired an NIB version, I've decided to hit the road with this one. Anyway, I recall struggling with this exact problem back in the late 80s when working on my old Plazmas. There has to be a better way to adjust these tie-rods than sticking one end in a vice and twisting the ball-end with a pair of pliers. The brute-force method works, but when I'm done the ball-end looks like the dog tried to eat it. I just can't twist them into the right size by hand, it just requires too much force. I'm wondering if anyone's found a more elegant solution to share. I have several more to adjust.

Here's my chewed-up tie-rod:


Any advice appreciated!

Thanks.
Try reaming the hole slightly on the rod end and put a little grease on the tie rod. Then use a pair of dull old dikes to hold the rod securely by hand and stick an allen wrench through the eyelet to twist it onto the rod.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:49 AM   #915
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Originally Posted by sundevil67 View Post
Hi All,
I've decided to turn my 'shelf queen' Fantom into a runner. The car is in pristine condition, but since I've acquired an NIB version, I've decided to hit the road with this one. Anyway, I recall struggling with this exact problem back in the late 80s when working on my old Plazmas. There has to be a better way to adjust these tie-rods than sticking one end in a vice and twisting the ball-end with a pair of pliers. The brute-force method works, but when I'm done the ball-end looks like the dog tried to eat it. I just can't twist them into the right size by hand, it just requires too much force. I'm wondering if anyone's found a more elegant solution to share. I have several more to adjust.

Here's my chewed-up tie-rod:


Any advice appreciated!

Thanks.
Whether or not its metric or standard, use a tap to cut the threads. Most hobby shops that handle Dubro products will have the tap you'll need.
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