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Old 01-15-2013, 06:34 AM   #811
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Interesting, so it's basically doing the job of side springs for side-to-side resistance and tweak adjustments. I guess there is more slop in that arrangement than a side-spring set-up would have, otherwise I could see it working on a modern pivot ball car.

One of my favourite pan car set-ups was the one used on the Tamiya F102 and Group C cars. It's similar to what you describe. T-bar connected to the chassis (essentially) but there is an o-ring instead of a washer in there. Tightening the screw that went through the T-bar and the o-ring would put more pressure on the o-ring and reduce side-to-side movement. I always enjoyed tuning my car with nothing more than a Phillip's head screw-driver in under 5 minutes.
If you build the sway bar properly, there is virtually no slop, and it is infinitely adjustable. It was difficult to fit under a lot of bodies, and would be worse today. I would much rather have a good sway bar than side springs.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:03 PM   #812
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If you build the sway bar properly, there is virtually no slop, and it is infinitely adjustable. It was difficult to fit under a lot of bodies, and would be worse today. I would much rather have a good sway bar than side springs.
There might be enough room if you mounted the sway bar under the top plate about half way between the top and bottom plate. With todays inline configurations there might be enough room, I still have on of my old AE cars fitted with the a swaybar.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:56 PM   #813
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Tim and I built swaybars for the 12L to stop it rolling so far it dragged. They worked very well. Because of the peculiarities of T-bar cars, we were able to substitute a bump stop set up that was much lighter and simpler. That wouldn't work on a link car. The hardest part of a swaybar is putting some sort of ear on the right side of the pod for the right pivot. The 2 pod pivots have to be symmetrical or the car will be tweaked. You could do it, but I'm too old and lazy to scratch build these days.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:08 PM   #814
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I think the key to a successful lipo-link swaybar car would be to keep the swaybar narrow and small, like just looping in front of (or even in some way incorporating) the pod pivot, and maybe 1.5" wide, as opposed to old swaybar systems where the bar was the full width of the chassis.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:00 AM   #815
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I think the key to a successful lipo-link swaybar car would be to keep the swaybar narrow and small, like just looping in front of (or even in some way incorporating) the pod pivot, and maybe 1.5" wide, as opposed to old swaybar systems where the bar was the full width of the chassis.
If you make it too narrow it will be too stiff. There is actually a rather small window for the proper stiffness. On the ones we made, .063 wire was too stiff, but .055 worked perfectly.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:06 AM   #816
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I must have at least 10 or more old 235mm pan car bodies I've collected over the years, all uncut and unpainted. I would love to get extra's. I will have to contact him and get these back on the market. I will have to see what I have and make a list.

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TJ
Anything ever happen with this?
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:49 AM   #817
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Anything ever happen with this?
I emailed Team Bluegrove about a week ago and my email just got bounced. I will try again today. I also have the Protoform Corvette and the 200mm Mulsanne which protoform has discontinued. Later!!!!
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:11 PM   #818
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Does TeamBluegroove offer a "real" replica associated TOJ for 1/12th and or 1/10th. They also should do the driver figures again. Back in the day, it used to be required to use a driver figure, and I did not like it. Now I want to add one to my 1/12ths. Kinda funny
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:02 PM   #819
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Does TeamBluegroove offer a "real" replica associated TOJ for 1/12th and or 1/10th.
You mean like this one?
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They also should do the driver figures again. Back in the day, it used to be required to use a driver figure, and I did not like it. Now I want to add one to my 1/12ths. Kinda funny
TBG already does a few.

Or if you prefer an Osella in 1/12th and 1/10th, then Bob's your man.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:02 PM   #820
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I've seen the AE TOJ. Have not seen the heads for 12th scale
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:33 PM   #821
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Was it common for people to try and convert their RC10 buggy into a 12th scale?

At least I assume that's what this was: http://www.ebay.com/itm/rc10-0117-vi...item5d395a5c7d

It looks like it's had a hard life. I'm tempted to buy it just to give it a home.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:39 PM   #822
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That looks like something scratch built. Home made fiberglass chassis, Parma rear pod, Bolink T-Plate. Nothing really vintage RC10 about that.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:40 PM   #823
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Correction...that is the Sassy Chassis rear pod from a RC10LSS or RC12L...That's about the only part RC10ish about it.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:52 PM   #824
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Correction...that is the Sassy Chassis rear pod from a RC10LSS or RC12L...That's about the only part RC10ish about it.
Ah thanks, the "For Vehicle Type: Buggy" bit lead me astray.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:10 PM   #825
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Ok, I have a technical question I think the Classic 12th community is best placed to answer.

The original Deltas had the shock basically level mounted from the chassis to the rear of the pod, like so:



Pretty much all of the later (and modern) cars have the shock mounted from the front of the pod to the centre of the chassis, sloping down to the centre of the chassis.

For example:



From what I've read increasing the slope of the shock increases mid-corner steering while reducing exit steering. This seems true from my own testing on track. I had the shock dead-level at one point and it was detrimental in that it would push through the mid-corner and then oversteer on exit.

The only modern car that has a shock layout anything like parallel with the chassis is the Speed Merchant Rev 7:



However, what I find curious is that the later Delta cars went the opposite way to all their competitors. They angled the shock the other way:

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/delta_chassis.jpg (damn anti hot-linking)

So, my quesiton is why did they do that? Is it just that the shock needs to be on an angle, and it doesn't matter if the gradient is positive or negative? Is it something curious with the rear mounted shock set-up? Or just that the older cars needed more exit steering?

And more broadly, what is the mechanism by which shock angle changes the steering characteristics in the corner?
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Last edited by Radio Active; 02-20-2013 at 05:05 PM. Reason: hot linking
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