R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree37Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-10-2017, 09:32 AM   #871
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,607
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
Or just carefully tape the battery where you want it, as God intended.
3M Permanent double side tape, the thin stuff for arts and crafts. It makes me sad to see someone tape in a battery to a touring car with that super thick Parma gummy tape. The only downside is you have to keep it in a bag or something because any little bit of lint or dog hair around that tape reel will be in the tape.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
Current rides: Diggity DC4 Chassis #10. Losi JRX-S Type R. CRC Xi (retired), CRC Altered Ego Aluminum Chassis. Associated B4 based dirt oval late model.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2017, 10:58 AM   #872
Tech Regular
 
RotorTruck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA
Posts: 319
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrofish48 View Post

What I have decided I'm gonna try is to take some poster board and cut it to my battery and where I want it on the chassis and then drill a hole on either side to mount that through the top battery strap posts. I think if I layer the poster board that should give me the thickness and rigidity I need. Then hopefully the battery strap still holds it down. If not I could always make the poster board work. What do you guys think, am I stupid in doing this? lol
Use Kydex, you can get it from mc-master carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic/pvc/=18gusz4
__________________
-Brad
RotorTruck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2017, 03:49 PM   #873
Tech Rookie
 
LzREngineering's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Default

Awful night racing tonight - the fk05 handled ok but the 15 year old nimhs failed utterly.

On the plus side, I bought a (full size) LiPo!
Hopefully next meeting will be better with a re balanced car and some actual power!
LzREngineering is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2017, 09:48 PM   #874
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 8
Default

Hey guys I meant to post on here with my updates and have been slacking.

What I ended up doing for the battery tray was cutting out a piece of 1/4 inch ish lexan and made a battery cage. It works perfectly. I used 8 3mm shims on under both battery holder posts to make sure the battery wouldnt slide out during cornering and am using a slim piece of foam on top of the battery just to make sure it dosnt go anywhere. Honestly all my batterys fit perfectly now and the foam accommodates multiple heights, it's better than the original design lol.

I was back at the track for 6 HOURS this Saturday and boy was it worth it. I tightened up the rear ball diff a little bit and that really gave my car some grunt out of the corners. I also tightened my front diff almost* all the way down ( there is still some diff action) and that helped a lot too. (I tried my car with a loose front diff and quickly realized that was a terrible idea) I also layed my shocks down front and rear to get more side bite and messed with droop a bit. All in all I gained about .5-.7 seconds consistently, and my fast lap went from an 11.5 to an 11.1 which is maybe .5 off the realllllllly fast A main guys at my track. I was haulin' some serious ass with my FK05, and was basically able to keep up (if I was consistent) with a buddy of mine and his t4 16, he had a best lap of 10.8.

Overall it was awesome, I learned a lot about my car and got better at driving it too. I added about 50g of weight to it today to get it race ready, so Ill be back in a few weeks to practice with the new weight and see how that feels and then hopefully race the next day. Really excited about my progress, old cars can definitely kick some serious ass.
Nitrofish48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 12:09 AM   #875
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 53
Default

Yes, 3200mAh is enough. Get some new for better practice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LzREngineering View Post
I know it's bad practice! this pack (like most of my recycled packs) was made up of 2 old sets where half the cells had gone bad in each. I balance it after every use and only charge at c/10 so it's not really a problem - only stores about 1900mah according to the charger. You're right, I do need LiPo's! I can only get about 3 mins into a race before the car begins to slow. Would a 3200mah shorty Lipo be enough for TC racing?
betty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 12:55 AM   #876
Tech Regular
 
Speed Chaser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 345
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

How old does a tc have to be to be considered old?😂😂 i have some but i dont know if they will be considered old
Speed Chaser is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 01:04 AM   #877
Tech Master
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 1,381
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Chaser View Post
How old does a tc have to be to be considered old?😂😂 i have some but i dont know if they will be considered old
It depends on who you ask, but the most common answer I've seen in this thread is whether the chassis was designed for NiCd/NiMH or LiPo.
gigaplex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 05:29 AM   #878
Tech Rookie
 
LzREngineering's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Default

Tried some outdoor racing @ Cotswold MCC on Sunday in torrential rain. (Great track!!) Drowned the motor, cracked a C-hub and bent a driveshaft. First breakages in 12 years of owning this car! Also sent the Li-Po skidding accross the tarmac - I need to work on a better way of securing it (currently have it wedged between 2 old servo posts)

In the one semi-dry race that I actually finished the car went ok considering the front right suspension was locked together with cable ties.

Now to go hunting for spares...
LzREngineering is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 06:53 AM   #879
Tech Elite
 
Metalsoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 2,023
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default

I wanted to show you guys this:

I race a custom Carbon TB03 but still uses all of the lay down ( IFS ) front suspension, as well as all the plastic stock Tamiya parts ( Minus Chassis of course )

I was able to win the A-Main with consistent driving from a car built in 2008.

I run: Fantom V1 FR1 21.5 with a Turnigy cheap lipo ( the $30 one ) and a car geared at 3.842 because of the internal ratio being so high on older cars.


Eddie ( Mr. TQ ) runs a new Awesomatic, Alum chassis 21.5T Team Scream, with Reedy lipo.


This is how close the older cars can keep up with the new ones.....
Attached Thumbnails
Old TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively-main.jpg  
__________________
Tamiya TB03 USGT - Custom Carbon fiber Chassis - Magoo Racing Inc....

Last edited by Metalsoft; 07-24-2017 at 02:12 PM.
Metalsoft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 08:40 AM   #880
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6,131
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Good running.... You are right there....What is your setup ???
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 08:54 AM   #881
Tech Elite
 
Metalsoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 2,023
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Good running.... You are right there....What is your setup ???
Yeah I sneaked this one away from him for the win...

Gave the car all it could handle.

Currently:

Med yellow Front spring 40wt oil - Short Damper spring
Med Yellow Sway bar - 3 hole piston

Soft Red Rear Spring 40wt oil - Short Damper Spring
Soft Red sway bar - 3 hole piston

FR1 Fantom geared 3.842 ( 83 64P spur 52 64P pinion )

Weight 50/50 left to right 49/51 front to rear

Total weight 1380 on the dot ( with Body )

5mm ride height in front 5.2mm ride height in the back

Spring weight almost equal all around

.060 glue on front tire - 3/4 dope on front - full dope on rear

2.5mm on front chassis turnbuckle

1mm on back chassis turnbuckle

-1 deg toe front

-2 deg toe in rear

-1.5 deg camber front

-1 deg camber in rear


CRC black carpet Med size track 96x36
Attached Thumbnails
Old TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively-img_0529.jpg  
__________________
Tamiya TB03 USGT - Custom Carbon fiber Chassis - Magoo Racing Inc....

Last edited by Metalsoft; 07-24-2017 at 09:22 AM.
Metalsoft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 09:08 AM   #882
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6,131
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Good setup... Make sure the motor fan does not get affected by the rotor's magnetic pull. My fantom v1 did not like the fans any closer than 15mm .... Now you have a great base, you can compete with any other new chassis...Testing different bodies might be next to get the car's full potential... Cheers....
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 09:30 AM   #883
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,607
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Make sure the motor fan does not get affected by the rotor's magnetic pull. My fantom v1 did not like the fans any closer than 15mm
This is a load of garbage, put the fans where they fit best and don't listen to Bert.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
Current rides: Diggity DC4 Chassis #10. Losi JRX-S Type R. CRC Xi (retired), CRC Altered Ego Aluminum Chassis. Associated B4 based dirt oval late model.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 09:51 AM   #884
Tech Master
 
patorz31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Edmonton Ab
Posts: 1,398
Default

I really, really, really, hate to say this. Bert is right on that one. I have a couple of Freakishly strong Team Powers Rotors that I got from a Asian team driver. The damn Rotors will stop the fan if it's to close.
longuylander likes this.
__________________
Northern Alberta Scale Car Auto Racers Pres. and Promotions
SCHUMACHER RACING Canada,TEAM POWERS, RACE-OPT, Bezerk RC,
patorz31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 11:15 AM   #885
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,607
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
I really, really, really, hate to say this. Bert is right on that one. I have a couple of Freakishly strong Team Powers Rotors that I got from a Asian team driver. The damn Rotors will stop the fan if it's to close.
I don't know what to tell you dude, when my Fantom V1 is assembled it wont even pick a paperclip up off the table.

The iron of the stator combined with the aluminum can are effective magnetic shielding. A bare rotor may cause some issue and stop the fan due to it either blinding the internal sensors or by affecting the internal magnet, but whether my fan is 0, 5, 10, or 15mm from my motor makes no difference. And I paid extra for the torque rotor. Your team powers may be a bit different as I have a TP Actinium Standard and I never had any issues with the fan, but if you installed a God Magnet you have gotten some interference.

How PC Fans Work

Next we will find out how much faster you will go if you swap your steel motor screws for aluminum. I guess we should count our blessings, Bert finally stopped telling people to blow their motors up for fun and then when I said that it was dangerous posting conceited comments like "If you want to win, you have to push it ..... The basher mentality will not get you a TQ and win... Maybe a third place finish...lol..."
gigaplex likes this.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
Current rides: Diggity DC4 Chassis #10. Losi JRX-S Type R. CRC Xi (retired), CRC Altered Ego Aluminum Chassis. Associated B4 based dirt oval late model.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WCIC '06/'07 grabber Canadian R/C Scene 984 07-05-2007 10:55 PM


Tags
414, kawada, sv-10, tamiya, tc3


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:31 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net