Getting back into touring cars after 8 years.
04-17-2011, 11:13 AM
#16
I don't think any of those frp chassis kits with crappy shocks, would be a step up. Spend your money on some new or new but used electronics.
If you really want to change the chassis, you would be better off searching the buy/sell threads for a lightly used, only slightly outdated car.
My friend just beat some very fast guys including a national champion yesterday using a t2'009 in 17.5 super stock.
He had that car up for sale for weeks for less than $200 and no one wanted it. lol
If you really want to change the chassis, you would be better off searching the buy/sell threads for a lightly used, only slightly outdated car.
My friend just beat some very fast guys including a national champion yesterday using a t2'009 in 17.5 super stock.
He had that car up for sale for weeks for less than $200 and no one wanted it. lol
got you, but i wouldn't know what to be looking for in this era. i know i need a lipo but i don't know which one. and honestly, i love brushed motors and i don't want to run a brushless even though i know i have to lol
04-17-2011, 11:28 AM
#17
It's the main reason I bought my Outlaw motor. I know it's basically just a duo3 with a sticker on it, but the sticker looks badass. 
04-17-2011, 12:36 PM
#18
Tech Initiate
The original T1 (Ž03 Ž04) let you choose plenty of batt lay outs, but I guess you was using the saddle config. You got to buy saddle lipos and measure the height limit before purchasing them. You can get very cheap batts at competitive prices, as well as brushless combos.
I won the Regionals back in 2005 with a T1FK05 and I still love this car. Gotta find one in good condition. These cars are still competitive in mild motor classes and very easy to be tunned. In the whole season I just changed shock oils.
04-17-2011, 03:27 PM
#19
It's possible to run an old car very competitively , however note that my T1 FK has a full set of new ball bearings and almost completely new drivetrain . Run an old car in mild motor classes as said . If you maintain it properly , the results can be stunning - I had the fastest lap in all 3 qualifications and all 3 finals , however ended 2nd because my battery escaped the first qualify and the wheel fell in the 2nd 
In the end , it's a great feeling to beat Associated TC6s , Yokomo BR5s and a couple of Xrays T2 007-9 . In the race talks , you can always use "yeah , but my car is 7 years old" as an excuse 
In the end , it's a great feeling to beat Associated TC6s , Yokomo BR5s and a couple of Xrays T2 007-9 . In the race talks , you can always use "yeah , but my car is 7 years old" as an excuse
04-17-2011, 04:20 PM
#20
It's possible to run an old car very competitively , however note that my T1 FK has a full set of new ball bearings and almost completely new drivetrain . Run an old car in mild motor classes as said . If you maintain it properly , the results can be stunning - I had the fastest lap in all 3 qualifications and all 3 finals , however ended 2nd because my battery escaped the first qualify and the wheel fell in the 2nd In the end , it's a great feeling to beat Associated TC6s , Yokomo BR5s and a couple of Xrays T2 007-9 . In the race talks , you can always use "yeah , but my car is 7 years old" as an excuse
In the end , it's a great feeling to beat Associated TC6s , Yokomo BR5s and a couple of Xrays T2 007-9 . In the race talks , you can always use "yeah , but my car is 7 years old" as an excuse
04-17-2011, 04:21 PM
#21
Once you hit the track with the other guys youŽll want to throw your brushed stuff way far away... Brushless is the best invention for this hobby to date.
The original T1 (Ž03 Ž04) let you choose plenty of batt lay outs, but I guess you was using the saddle config. You got to buy saddle lipos and measure the height limit before purchasing them. You can get very cheap batts at competitive prices, as well as brushless combos.
I won the Regionals back in 2005 with a T1FK05 and I still love this car. Gotta find one in good condition. These cars are still competitive in mild motor classes and very easy to be tunned. In the whole season I just changed shock oils.
The original T1 (Ž03 Ž04) let you choose plenty of batt lay outs, but I guess you was using the saddle config. You got to buy saddle lipos and measure the height limit before purchasing them. You can get very cheap batts at competitive prices, as well as brushless combos.
I won the Regionals back in 2005 with a T1FK05 and I still love this car. Gotta find one in good condition. These cars are still competitive in mild motor classes and very easy to be tunned. In the whole season I just changed shock oils.
04-17-2011, 04:23 PM
#22
oh and by the way, anyone have a corally rdx they want to get rid of? back in the day that was my dream car and still is lol dated or not.
04-17-2011, 04:25 PM
#23
You can get cheap lipos now that perform great. I still usually waste my money on big names like thunder power, because I like the look of their graphics. It's the main reason I bought my Outlaw motor. I know it's basically just a duo3 with a sticker on it, but the sticker looks badass.
It's the main reason I bought my Outlaw motor. I know it's basically just a duo3 with a sticker on it, but the sticker looks badass. 
any good?
04-17-2011, 05:24 PM
#24
I'm sure they are fine, but you might get some better deals online. If you want to save a few bucks, check out hobbyking.com for the super cheap turnigy and zippy lipos or check speedzoneusa.com and stormerhobbies.com for some good deals on all sorts of things. speedzone, stormer, speedtechrc.com and amainhobbies.com are all good shops based in the US.
04-17-2011, 05:37 PM
#25
I'm sure they are fine, but you might get some better deals online. If you want to save a few bucks, check out hobbyking.com for the super cheap turnigy and zippy lipos or check speedzoneusa.com and stormerhobbies.com for some good deals on all sorts of things. speedzone, stormer, speedtechrc.com and amainhobbies.com are all good shops based in the US.
04-17-2011, 06:17 PM
#26
im in the same boat i took a 10 year break to race usac sprintcars here in calif and a mounth or so ago got back into onroad and off! i picked up a couple older tc5s that were in great shape with some spare parts and ran in the 21.5 gt class and the 17.5 non boost class i was suprised how fast you can pick it back up just do your homework setup setup setup!ive won some races and always qualify in the top 5! i just bought a NEW top photon and man o man its head and shoulders faster than the old tc5s! theres always somebody selling batts and motors at the local tracks that are still in good shape i feel you dont need to buy everything new to be competitive!
04-18-2011, 12:12 AM
#27
im in the same boat i took a 10 year break to race usac sprintcars here in calif and a mounth or so ago got back into onroad and off! i picked up a couple older tc5s that were in great shape with some spare parts and ran in the 21.5 gt class and the 17.5 non boost class i was suprised how fast you can pick it back up just do your homework setup setup setup!ive won some races and always qualify in the top 5! i just bought a NEW top photon and man o man its head and shoulders faster than the old tc5s! theres always somebody selling batts and motors at the local tracks that are still in good shape i feel you dont need to buy everything new to be competitive!
04-18-2011, 12:46 AM
#28
good luck
Jake
04-18-2011, 01:01 AM
#29
I used to run the FK05. It can be very good on many surfaces but the main issue I have is when you have to work on it. The 008/9 has more tuning options and is far easier to work on. One example is the difficulty in changing the spur gear. The 008 it is a breeze, the FK05 makes you want to jump off a cliff. Basically, if I were shopping for something newer but used I'd go with the 008 or its year newer identical twin, the 009. The exotek chassis is a no brainer if you wan to update it for lipo. Thankfully the exotek chassis is better than the stock chassis too.
good luck
Jake
good luck
Jake
04-18-2011, 10:22 AM
#30
Tech Addict
I drive a T1FK05 and to put it lightly the car is a tank.. i drive on a indoor track now with a 4.5T corally (rated to 500Watts) and the only damage i have given it is to pop out the suspension holders and bending the screws.. And that was on a outdoor track with much more speed.
.. rims crack but not the car.
. i was new to RC after a small break just like you. went from a TL-01 with 18T to that tank..
Stick it to Xray unless you don`t like the local xray shop or something. or part prices.. saves you some screws and bearings too.
Use propper diff lube. say schumacher.
My best tip is to get propper tools.. buy Hudy etc. 10 times easier to get things appart that way.
I don`t race yet.. still working on learning setup.
.. rims crack but not the car.
. i was new to RC after a small break just like you. went from a TL-01 with 18T to that tank..
Stick it to Xray unless you don`t like the local xray shop or something. or part prices.. saves you some screws and bearings too.
Use propper diff lube. say schumacher.
My best tip is to get propper tools.. buy Hudy etc. 10 times easier to get things appart that way.
I don`t race yet.. still working on learning setup.