moto0013

Ran my car for the firstime on an outdoor track today and have a major handling issue.When going fast down the back straight I am letting off for a turn. At this point my rear becomes super light and any input on the wheel causes it to totally lose the rear. I imagine there are several ways to go about solving this. Where should I start?

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

try using harder springs in front.

Cheapest way is try to increase droop at the rear (generally speaking, never owned a TF-5 before).

Droop - Downtravel/downstop.

The rear tires should maintain traction when it lifts up during decelleration

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

What tyres and body are you using? Is it an rtr tf-5 or kit? Stallion or standard?

I have a dodge stratus rtr, and with the stock body and on not so good rubber it is very slippery in the rear at speed. I ran mine on the weekend with sorex 36r rubber and a protoform Mazdaspeed 6 body and it's much better in the high speed corners it tends towards under-steer. Other issues to sort out though running the sorex wheels.

BS-Racing

iTrader: (7)

Eirher shock tension or diff tightness might need to be loosened

moto0013

Its a kit not the rtr. I put a you saleen body on it. It was working pretty well in the rest of the course. Only went bad when I coasted. No braking.

moto0013

Tires were a med compound slick pre glued set.

eComet

iTrader: (69)

Do you run one-way at all? If you are, try change to spool. Also one-way doesn't like drag brake if you have any. Try rear 3 degrees toe-in with less shock down-travel.

Vasco C

Maybe you can fill in a setup sheet and post it here? In that way I'm able to have a look at it..

moto0013

I will fill one out tonight.

Canyon

iTrader: (8)

Here's my ASPHALT RUBBER TIRE setup for the SHIN VERSION from when I used to run the K car:

Front
Camber link: Hole 1 with 2.5mm spacer
Shock on tower: Hole 1
Shock on arm: Hole 2
Front suspension block: A w/0mm under
Rear suspension block: In C w/1mm under
Droop: 2mm of lift
Wheelbase: 2mm in front 1mm in rear
Diff height: A w/Spool
Ackerman: middle chassis and top plate block w/forward B in wiper. 1mm under balls on wiper. Outer balls upside down and in back hole on knuckle.
Ride height: 5mm
Toe: 0 deg
Camber: -1.5 per side
Sway bar: 1.3mm with 0mm sticking out
Shock: 3B piston with 500wt Kyosho oil and Xray 2.8 spring. Kit diaphram without the pressure foam. 62mm overall length with 0 percent rebound.

Rear

Camber link: Hole 1 with 1.5mm spacer. Hole 1 on hub w/0 spacers
Shock on tower: Hole 2
Shock on arm: Hole 1
Front suspension block: Out C w/1mm under
Rear suspension block: Out D w/1mm under
Droop: 1mm of lift
Wheelbase: 1mm in front 2mm in rear
Diff height: A w/aluminum diff halves
Ride height: 5mm
Camber: -2 per side
Sway bar: 1.2mm with 1mm sticking out
Hub height: Down. Hubs middle on arm (1mm front and back). Kit hub with 5mm hex's and .5mm wheel spacer.
Shock: 3B piston with 400wt Kyosho oil and Xray 2.6 spring. Kit diaphram without the pressure foam. 61.5mm overall length with 0 percent rebound.


General

SJR 36's with full sauce all around. Tire tweak Sauce. Sauce and heat for 15 min. Hacker 4.5 with 9.0fdr. Protoform Mazda Speed 6 body with stock wing. 1oz of weight in rear on chassis between suspension arms. 1/4oz in front between suspension arms.

moto0013

Www crap ran out of time tonight. Will have to do the set up sheet tomorrow. Spooling?

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

check out the inside of the rims on the rear, if you see i bit of a groove in them you have the same problem i did. On mine the place where the hub carrier attaches to the lower arm, the screw and some of the actual arm, sometimes impact the rear wheels, which slowly wears a groove in them, the excess plastic rubs on the arm, causing extra drag on the wheels and upsetting the cars balance.

RsageD

funny thing is i have the same problem. ended up busting my shock open. im using preglued rims and some design tyre from japan (or so it says). will do what the rest of u suggested.