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Old 07-31-2012, 08:03 PM   #1366
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Not trying to be a smart allic here but what is the point of a rear bumper?
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:36 PM   #1367
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Mike, the listing is just for 1 pair. I need to get the pics updated... I am not sure if they fit the Schumacher. They fit XRAY and Hotbodies, and I am pretty sure tamiya though. No shim is required.
They look like a straight-through inner bore. Are they 5mm ID?

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Not trying to be a smart allic here but what is the point of a rear bumper?
If you have to ask, you're clearly too fast.

-Mike
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:55 PM   #1368
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The rear bumper is for preventing body tucks.

Mike, yes they are 5mm straight through.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:26 PM   #1369
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Thanks, Cristian. The slim hexes people are using on the front of the Schui are ~3.85mm, and the stock rears are ~4.85. ID is 5mm all the way through. Is the distance of the pin from the bearing a concern? I didn't measure that.

Anyway, widths are quite close, so I think I'll give yours a try. I am looking to reduce wheel wobbling and slop at the wheel, and want to eliminate worn hexes from the equation.

-Mike
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:31 PM   #1370
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Mike, the pin is right at the edge of the bearing. I imagine it has to be the same on the Schuie or it would not work right, pushing itself in.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:36 PM   #1371
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Not trying to be a smart allic here but what is the point of a rear bumper?
I have seen several guys go from 1st to last due to the body tucking in on the rear tire. In most cases it was a lapper letting the faster car go by then the lapper closing the door on the next corner hitting the lead car in the rear.... thus causing the body to tuck in and a corner martial having to fix it! I like the concept! I will be getting one as soon as they are in stock.. Plus it will help the rear blocks stay in place.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:54 PM   #1372
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Dennis, we do have the RSD information page on the site, which is really good and also, I try to update on the thread as much as it is possible.

Maybe I can create an email blast for people with an RSD6 chassis, in which they can subscribe to and I can update them on progress. I'll see what I can do.

Now, for an actual update.

I did a lot of testing with the 2.5mm car this last week and I seem to have taken a big leap forward. I did go from a 4.0 to a 5.5 motor which made my car much more driveable, but my car was 3-4 tenths faster than the other guys, vs the usual 1 or 2.

Amongst the changes:

-The rear is now narrower, this made the car have so much more steering than before.
-5mm Hexes in the front: for added stability from the gained steering
-Same 0B roll centers F/R to decrease rear rotation: Making the rear end narrower put a lot of rotation into the car as well.

I will have an updated set-up sheet on the site by tonight on the site, I'll post a couple of more tips as well.
is this on carpet or asphalt
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:11 PM   #1373
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This is on asphalt.
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:23 PM   #1374
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I have seen several guys go from 1st to last due to the body tucking in on the rear tire. In most cases it was a lapper letting the faster car go by then the lapper closing the door on the next corner hitting the lead car in the rear.... thus causing the body to tuck in and a corner martial having to fix it! I like the concept! I will be getting one as soon as they are in stock.. Plus it will help the rear blocks stay in place.
I'm currently using a frontbumper "Frame" in the rear. So basically the frontbumper without the foam. Works great
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:38 PM   #1375
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Mike, the pin is right at the edge of the bearing. I imagine it has to be the same on the Schuie or it would not work right, pushing itself in.
Unfortunately, the Schui is not that way. The pin is probably ~2mm from the bearing. The schui hex doesn't actually have a slot for the pin. It has a hole for the pin, and you slide the hex on, then slide the pin through the hex and the axle, and then there's an o-ring to retain the pin.

So depending on how deep the slots are in your hexes, they probably won't work right. I left you a voicemail and sent you an email.

-Mike
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:54 PM   #1376
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I'm currently using a frontbumper "Frame" in the rear. So basically the frontbumper without the foam. Works great
I'm using a rear shock tower that got hammered at Carpet Nats'11 in the straight when my speedo died..

Anyways have been battling issues on loosing pins on the DCJs and had an issue with the hex spinning in the wheel on the same side on two sets of wheels. Took the screw out and "opened" it up a bit then broke the screw re installing it. Had to put the stock ones back in...won't miss blowing out caster blocks..
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:23 PM   #1377
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Kyle, one thing to note is that once you have a pin wiggle loose, you MUST REPLACE the set-screws. Once a set-screw has gotten loose, then it will never again have its holding power back. Best thing to do is always keep a rebuild kit handy.

I will do a tutorial soon on how to build DCJ's so that they last a long time in between re-builds. Making them last is almost an art-form I am finding out. However, when done right they last a LONG TIME. And I mean 3+ months running mod. If not done right, I am lucky if I get 3 runs out of them.

Going forward, with our next production, all our DCJ's will come disassembled. This will make the process of cleaning the parts and installing them correctly easier. There will probably be a couple of revisions to make them better.
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:42 PM   #1378
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Kyle, one thing to note is that once you have a pin wiggle loose, you MUST REPLACE the set-screws. Once a set-screw has gotten loose, then it will never again have its holding power back. Best thing to do is always keep a rebuild kit handy.

I will do a tutorial soon on how to build DCJ's so that they last a long time in between re-builds. Making them last is almost an art-form I am finding out. However, when done right they last a LONG TIME. And I mean 3+ months running mod. If not done right, I am lucky if I get 3 runs out of them.

Going forward, with our next production, all our DCJ's will come disassembled. This will make the process of cleaning the parts and installing them correctly easier. There will probably be a couple of revisions to make them better.
Sounds good ....notch those pins or get with Peter at RC-Trim and get DCJ versions of his Xray ECS wraps....

Keep the good stuff coming..
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:15 PM   #1379
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The pins are not notched because when you do so, it weakens them.

I actually use stretched out 1/4in heat shrink instead of wraps. It works quite nicely.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:31 PM   #1380
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The pins are not notched because when you do so, it weakens them.

I actually use stretched out 1/4in heat shrink instead of wraps. It works quite nicely.
+1 on the shrink wrap. Personally i think it would be awesome if they had retaining rings but im not complaining.
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