Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)
#1336
New Chassis Options
Hi guys, next week, we will offer a 2.0mm chassis option for the RSD6.
What can I say.
I have spent some time testing them and I cannot find a quantifiable time difference around the track with either chassis.
Last night for example, the 2.5mm chassis with a flexible top deck ran a fast lap on the same motor and tires of 8.035 seconds. The 2.0mm chassis with a TC6 top deck with the rear brace cut out ran a fast lap of 8.043.
The time splits at 12 laps 24 laps were within .5 seconds every run and time after 6 minutes was always within 2 seconds.
However, the feel is a bit different. The set-ups are identical on both cars.
The 2.0mm chassis feels more forgiving around the track and corners flatter. The car is very easy to drive. It feels like it is less twitchy in turn-in, better mid and milder rotation. Everything happens a tid bit slower with the car.
The 2.5mm chassis is more direct and it rolls more. It pivots a bit better and carves more. It has more turn in and more rotation, and it feels like it switches directions a bit quicker . It is more of a point to point car. Everything happens a tid bit quicker with it.
Now the question you may ask yourself is, which one is better for me?
-Well, this is what I think:
They are tuning options, and they should be used as such. They are both highly adjustable and can be flex tuned when used with different top decks. For example: A 2.5mm chassis with a flexible top deck (like the Zeppin or the soon to be released RSD top deck) and a 2.0 with a stock top deck and all screws flex almost identically. However, the 2.5 can be made stiffer and the 2.0 can be made softer.
The softer chassis can be made to generate more grip with stiffer springs on low traction conditions, such as parking lots and cold weather. The stiffer chassis can take grip away in higher grip conditions such as permanent/prepped asphalt tracks and carpet. The 2.5mm chassis is probably better for big races on carpet when grip is really high.
In the end I think is a matter of preference. If you like a little more responsive car, pick the 2.5mm chassis, if you like a little more stability, pick the 2.0.
What can I say.
I have spent some time testing them and I cannot find a quantifiable time difference around the track with either chassis.
Last night for example, the 2.5mm chassis with a flexible top deck ran a fast lap on the same motor and tires of 8.035 seconds. The 2.0mm chassis with a TC6 top deck with the rear brace cut out ran a fast lap of 8.043.
The time splits at 12 laps 24 laps were within .5 seconds every run and time after 6 minutes was always within 2 seconds.
However, the feel is a bit different. The set-ups are identical on both cars.
The 2.0mm chassis feels more forgiving around the track and corners flatter. The car is very easy to drive. It feels like it is less twitchy in turn-in, better mid and milder rotation. Everything happens a tid bit slower with the car.
The 2.5mm chassis is more direct and it rolls more. It pivots a bit better and carves more. It has more turn in and more rotation, and it feels like it switches directions a bit quicker . It is more of a point to point car. Everything happens a tid bit quicker with it.
Now the question you may ask yourself is, which one is better for me?
-Well, this is what I think:
They are tuning options, and they should be used as such. They are both highly adjustable and can be flex tuned when used with different top decks. For example: A 2.5mm chassis with a flexible top deck (like the Zeppin or the soon to be released RSD top deck) and a 2.0 with a stock top deck and all screws flex almost identically. However, the 2.5 can be made stiffer and the 2.0 can be made softer.
The softer chassis can be made to generate more grip with stiffer springs on low traction conditions, such as parking lots and cold weather. The stiffer chassis can take grip away in higher grip conditions such as permanent/prepped asphalt tracks and carpet. The 2.5mm chassis is probably better for big races on carpet when grip is really high.
In the end I think is a matter of preference. If you like a little more responsive car, pick the 2.5mm chassis, if you like a little more stability, pick the 2.0.
#1339
Hi Cristian,
I noticed on some of your setups you run some outboard rear toe. How have you found this differs to regular inboard toe?
I don't see anyone else running it in their setups.
Cheers
I noticed on some of your setups you run some outboard rear toe. How have you found this differs to regular inboard toe?
I don't see anyone else running it in their setups.
Cheers
#1340
Outboard rear toe is good for bumpier conditions. It does not quite create the same amount of grip (because it creates less drive train bind so I run .5 extra mm when running outboard toe), but it allows the suspension to work a little bit better going over bumps.
#1341
Lots of new stuff and some spares!
RSD030-1 and RSD042-1 Replacement Chassis for RSD6 in 2.5mm and 2.0mm
RSD030-2 Replacement Battery Braces
RSD030-3 Replacement Servo Holder
RSD039 RSD6 Complete Steering Bell Crank
RSD039-1 RSD6 Steering Bridge V2
RSD040 RSD6 Left Side Servo Mount
RSD041 RSD6 Titanium Steering Link Turnbuckle
We also now have the RSD042 RSD6 2.0mm Chassis Conversion available for sale.
Last edited by CristianTabush; 07-18-2012 at 08:24 PM.
#1342
Suspended
Hey, could you post your website? I'm interested in springs and the 2.0 chassis.
Thank you.
Thank you.
#1343
Suspended
#1344
Tech Regular
Great additions, im happy with the current chassis as it is.
Is the steering bridge v2 a real upgrade? I have max throw with the current one. I've upgraded the steering link by a blue (is better ) one.
Is the steering bridge v2 a real upgrade? I have max throw with the current one. I've upgraded the steering link by a blue (is better ) one.
#1346
Tech Regular
Ok, no need to get it then. Next weekend i'll try some new stuff with the RSD, especially on the suspension, I feel I can get more out of the car than I do now.
#1348
Tech Regular
Looking good CT! My current cups are still at 100%. Im really happy with that option... I still didnt have to touch my spare ones from Associated that I ordered in case of emercency.
#1349
Thanks Dennis. I am still on my original ones myself. These really do not wear out if you keep fresh blades on them. Since I installed mine, I have only replaced my blades once, and it was not because they were broken, or too worn, but rather just because I wanted to put all new parts on the car. I am super happy with them, and since we sold out of the first batch, I figured we would revise them.