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Old 06-12-2012, 08:13 PM   #1246
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Site is back up. Thanks Mike for the heads up.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:20 PM   #1247
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Are the parts for the conversions sent out for the reedy race also sent out?
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:44 PM   #1248
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They were sent out last week. If you ordered one on the site and have not received one, you need to contact customer service at the store. If you bought it through a dealer, have them contact us about them.
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:45 PM   #1249
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Hi,

after hearing so much about (good reviews) RSD parts, finally, I have a chance to get hold to some of them.

I must say the parts for shock work brilliantly.
Could really feel the big difference before & after changing.

Not sure yet about the RSD6 bottom plate, but some of my frens have decide to go for it.
In fact, this weekend, we will have a local race & they will try it out.
(Hopefully we don't think that with RSD6, they can beat Hara & Jilles in this race... )

Last edited by hobbs; 06-18-2012 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:20 AM   #1250
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If you guys need help with set-up, don't hesitate to ask. We have been doing a lot of set-up development lately and we are getting the car faster and faster. Today I feel like I finally got the steering and rotation out of the car for our high grip, tight asphalt track.

A couple of tips:

-On high grip, the car likes a higher rear roll center than the front. My favorite so far is 0B front and 1B rear.
-The car likes the same oil F/R as well as same spring. My favorite on this car is 15.5's all around. I have found good balance with 550 F/R.
-To get tighter steering, increase the shims on the bell cranks to at least 5mm
-Use less rear toe in than with the TC6.1. The car generates much more rear grip. Tonight I ran 2.0 degrees of rear toe and really liked it.

-On medium grip, the 0B all around is good. Use about 3-3.5 degrees of rear toe. Same spring and oil.

-The RSD6 likes heavier weight oil in the rear diff. I run 1000 with a yokom diff in the rear for stock and 1200 for modified.

Last thing that I felt helped was running a shorter wheelbase. The rear arms have 1mm in front and 2mm rear.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:00 AM   #1251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Which alignment issues? The motor mount bracket? We have released a new motor mount bracket for the car and all orders, are being shipped with them, with the exception of the ones that went for the REEDY race, which will be shipped by the end of the week.

We have found the car to generate better grip by using only 2 screws on the motor mount. The forward-most screw and the "middle" screw that bolts to the front of the lay shaft mount. I personally have been considering cutting the motor mount right at this spot to test. It also prevents tweak in the chassis a bit better as the motor mount torque only is attached at 1 point. I will post some pics up in a bit.
Did you ship me out one of those Motor Mount Brackets? I was one of the chassis that was shipped out before REEDY. Thanks..
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:39 AM   #1252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Kowal View Post
Did you ship me out one of those Motor Mount Brackets? I was one of the chassis that was shipped out before REEDY. Thanks..
Tim, I thought I had gotten all of them out, but if you still have not received yours, I will re-send you one today. Have you checked your mail lately?

Thanks!

BTW, how is the car doing for you?
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:50 AM   #1253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Tim, I thought I had gotten all of them out, but if you still have not received yours, I will re-send you one today. Have you checked your mail lately?

Thanks!

BTW, how is the car doing for you?
My packages are shipped to my office, I get mail everyday, haven't gotten that bracket. I have just been running without one.

Car is magical! Really transforms the TC6! Everyone that sees/drives it can't believe its a TC6. A+ Job!!!
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:11 PM   #1254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
If you guys need help with set-up, don't hesitate to ask. We have been doing a lot of set-up development lately and we are getting the car faster and faster. Today I feel like I finally got the steering and rotation out of the car for our high grip, tight asphalt track.

A couple of tips:

-On high grip, the car likes a higher rear roll center than the front. My favorite so far is 0B front and 1B rear.
-The car likes the same oil F/R as well as same spring. My favorite on this car is 15.5's all around. I have found good balance with 550 F/R.
-To get tighter steering, increase the shims on the bell cranks to at least 5mm
-Use less rear toe in than with the TC6.1. The car generates much more rear grip. Tonight I ran 2.0 degrees of rear toe and really liked it.

-On medium grip, the 0B all around is good. Use about 3-3.5 degrees of rear toe. Same spring and oil.

-The RSD6 likes heavier weight oil in the rear diff. I run 1000 with a yokom diff in the rear for stock and 1200 for modified.

Last thing that I felt helped was running a shorter wheelbase. The rear arms have 1mm in front and 2mm rear.
Are these tips for the tc6.1 setup or the new chassis setup? I am looking for the best setup for a high grip medium to large size carpet track.
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:21 PM   #1255
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Are these tips for the tc6.1 setup or the new chassis setup? I am looking for the best setup for a high grip medium to large size carpet track.
The advice is more RSD6 specific, however I think they apply to both. I typically always ran 1lb heavier spring in the front and 50 CST higher with the 6.1. On high grip carpet I would go as low as 2.2 degrees of rear toe. The higher rear roll center is something I did sometimes with the TC6 as well, especially because our track has really tight switchbacks and the higher rear roll center allows the car to switch directions a bit quicker. On more flowing layouts, without the tight, tight corners I run the same roll centers for the added stability.

Tim, this is great news!!! I am glad you are enjoying the car. I will put a bracket in the mail today, so expect it Monday/ Tuesday.
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:30 PM   #1256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The advice is more RSD6 specific, however I think they apply to both. I typically always ran 1lb heavier spring in the front and 50 CST higher with the 6.1. On high grip carpet I would go as low as 2.2 degrees of rear toe. The higher rear roll center is something I did sometimes with the TC6 as well, especially because our track has really tight switchbacks and the higher rear roll center allows the car to switch directions a bit quicker. On more flowing layouts, without the tight, tight corners I run the same roll centers for the added stability.

Tim, this is great news!!! I am glad you are enjoying the car. I will put a bracket in the mail today, so expect it Monday/ Tuesday.
Gotcha well thanks for the advice. I think right now I am running 45 wt oil in the front and 30 in the rear. Also I am running teal reflex spring in the front and silver in the rear (I beleive....this might be wrong). It is actually setup pretty well to my driving style. I like aggressive stearing (I run my dual rate higher than most). A push in the car is my least favorite thing of all. I would rather it spinout than push. But I am running 2000 wt oil in the rear gear diff so that sound way different than what you suggest.
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:04 AM   #1257
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First up, thanks to Cristian and RSD for creating a lovely piece of kit. I received mine the other day and it's gone together a breeze.

I am just installing the servo and am wondering what sort of length to make the turnbuckle link?

Also, I'm running the Core arm that Cristian suggested in a previous post. It's quite slim so the angle of the link at neutral is pretty extreme. From previous cars I would guess that at full steering the the link should be pretty much horizontal to do that some spacers would be needed behind the arm ball stud. Probably about 5mm. What is everyones opinion on this?

Reading through a previous post Cristian you write,

"To get tighter steering, increase the shims on the bell cranks to at least 5mm"

Where do you mean?

Another Q: What sort of position should I set the electrics based on the experience you guys have with the chassis? I'm running a KO 2413 which is a slimline servo (ran this for over 5 years now, what a beast) which means I now have tones of room to mount the electrics. Just wondering if I should mount the ESC closer to front or rear.

That's all for now, hoping to get out on the track in a week or so but the weather here in the UK has been shocking for over a month. I honestly cannot remember a period of more than a couple of days without rain.

BTW I'm using the TC6 not the .1 if it makes a difference for the above.
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:14 PM   #1258
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The length of the turnbuckle depends on your servo horn.

Seeing that you used the Core RC horn, I recommend using the second hole from the top. Center your horn and make the link long enough so that the horn remains at a 90 degree angle when the steering is centered.

I use roughly about 5mm of spacing underneath the ball end to space it up and get it at a less extreme angle. I am using a 4.8mm threaded ball and I thread a long screw to engage the threads on the ball. When using an RSD6 servo saver, I use the RSD 8mm thread studs with about 2-3mm of spacing behind it.

By increasing shims under the studs, I mean increasing the shim behind the steering rod ball ends on the bell cranks. These are the 2 ball ends that are next to each other on the crank. Moving the studs forward allows the outside tire to turn more, decreasing ackerman and increasing steering radius. It is the same effect that the TC6 had going from the 7B to 7C on the Uni crank steering.

For The electronics, I am using the same servo, I have a previous generation AMB taped to the back side of it vertically, followed by a KO 407-S Receiver, followed by a 10mm wide fan, followed by a Tekin RS Pro. All of it is biased forward, so I still have a bit of space left in front of the motor. I think I might move them back a bit to allow a tid bit more airflow to the ESC since the summer is right around the corner.

It should not matter much which arms you are running. I actually have been pondering trying the TC6 geometry in the rear to see what effect it has on the car.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:29 PM   #1259
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when will you have more chassis in stock?
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:18 PM   #1260
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Should be within 2 weeks or so. The previous batch sold out quicker than expected. With this new batch, we will sell the parts separately as well, in case you may want to buy a spare deck.
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