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Old 05-17-2012, 03:54 AM   #1126
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Soon, it's on the docket. Just waiting on some quotes.
Good new.

At the moment I use Yok 44mm Alloy bones with Yok gear diff.
It is 6 g lighter that standard one. ( good for rotated mass)

But I prefer use AE gear diff with your alloy bones.

Fred

PS: Sorry for my poor English
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:59 PM   #1127
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Has anyone tried this product:http://www.reflexracing.net/-QTEQ-64...104_p_997.html
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:48 PM   #1128
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Has anyone tried this product:http://www.reflexracing.net/-QTEQ-64...104_p_997.html
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I use it on my car, however, it does not fit inside all Tamiya Pro Diffs. At some point the inside diameter tolerance changed on the tamiya diff so they are a bit tight. I am using the 3Racing Externally adjusted diff with this and it works great.
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:10 PM   #1129
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The RSD6 looks very good.

But I have one question.

What is it the benefit of put the servo in this way like Yok, Tam, HB , X-ray..... ?

I compared the radius variations of the wheels between Tam and and TC6, and there are very quite the same.

What is the different between an dual point and a mono point steering system ?

Perhaps it is just to remove the screw on the top desk in order to improve flex in the front of the car ?
Or there is an other raison ?

Please help me...... Please explain to me.....


Fred
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:07 PM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I use it on my car, however, it does not fit inside all Tamiya Pro Diffs. At some point the inside diameter tolerance changed on the tamiya diff so they are a bit tight. I am using the 3Racing Externally adjusted diff with this and it works great.
Saw the 3racing externally adjusted diff on your website and have a few questions:
1. Does it use tamiya compatible parts such as diff rings,bearings,etc
2. Any performance advantages over tamiya stock or is it just more durable. My stock unit is starting to get some play in the end component that holds tire. That's what prompted question about qteq diff cap.
Thanks
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:23 PM   #1131
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It uses all Tamiya parts, but the fit on the rings is not as great. It has a little more slop on them, just very slight, I don't think this is a performance disadvantage as it is still keyed.

It is not more durable I'd say but adjusting it is a breeze and I really like that feature.

The end cap has a bit of slop, but when combined with the QTEQ end cap or Tamiya cap the slop is gone.
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:24 PM   #1132
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Car with the corrected setup handled wonderfully today. Very easy to drive. Unfortunately I think I'm gonna have to ditch the DCJs for a while. I've started breaking caster blocks since running them. Never had that problem before.
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:50 PM   #1133
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Car with the corrected setup handled wonderfully today. Very easy to drive. Unfortunately I think I'm gonna have to ditch the DCJs for a while. I've started breaking caster blocks since running them. Never had that problem before.
Thats odd. Ive been using DCJ's forever on dremel'd out c hubs and not had any issues at all. Are you running the 6.1 or 6 c hubs?
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:30 PM   #1134
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Thats odd. Ive been using DCJ's forever on dremel'd out c hubs and not had any issues at all. Are you running the 6.1 or 6 c hubs?
6.1. They aren't really breaking in the middle of the c hub so it may just be a coincidence but I've broken 3 in two weeks after never breaking one before. I will take them out for a bit and see if it continues or stops.
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:39 PM   #1135
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6.1. They aren't really breaking in the middle of the c hub so it may just be a coincidence but I've broken 3 in two weeks after never breaking one before. I will take them out for a bit and see if it continues or stops.
If you happen to still have any of those c hubs you broke, check them for air pockets. Some of the 6.1 c hubs have them. I would guess probably, cause the ones that do always break towards the bottom, and not in the middle. I run the 6 c hubs, even hogging them way out to fit a DCJ they seem to be more durable than 6.1 c hubs, you may want to give that a shot.
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:49 PM   #1136
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
If you happen to still have any of those c hubs you broke, check them for air pockets. Some of the 6.1 c hubs have them. I would guess probably, cause the ones that do always break towards the bottom, and not in the middle. I run the 6 c hubs, even hogging them way out to fit a DCJ they seem to be more durable than 6.1 c hubs, you may want to give that a shot.
No air pocket that I can see but they did break toward the bottom. I assume no other part changes are needed for the 6 hubs they are just L/R versus universal like the 6.1?
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:59 PM   #1137
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No air pocket that I can see but they did break toward the bottom. I assume no other part changes are needed for the 6 hubs they are just L/R versus universal like the 6.1?
Correct. Just need to dremel them out to fit DCJs. You might want a 0.1-0.2mm shim on the c-hub hinge pins with the 6 c hubs, depending if/how much play you have.
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:07 PM   #1138
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Correct. Just need to dremel them out to fit DCJs. You might want a 0.1-0.2mm shim on the c-hub hinge pins with the 6 c hubs, depending if/how much play you have.
Thanks, just ordered some to try.
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:32 PM   #1139
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Did a lot of testing this past week with the RSD6, had a chance to run on a high grip asphalt small track (100x60ft) and a large medium grip track (250x75ft).

Learned quite a bit on the track. I have made some changes from the baseline.

-Roll center is now at 0B in the rear.
-Removed the arm sweep
-I am using 4mm hexes with 0.5mm wheel hex spacers.
-14.5lb springs in the rear as well.
-removed 0.3mm of rear toe in (for 3.0 overall degrees)

I am still trying to get a little more steering in for our high speed decreasing radius corners at both tracks, however I am trying to figure out if it is more initial or mid corner traction that I am looking for. I'll keep testing and I'll report back.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:48 PM   #1140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredB View Post
The RSD6 looks very good.

But I have one question.

What is it the benefit of put the servo in this way like Yok, Tam, HB , X-ray..... ?

I compared the radius variations of the wheels between Tam and and TC6, and there are very quite the same.

What is the different between an dual point and a mono point steering system ?

Perhaps it is just to remove the screw on the top desk in order to improve flex in the front of the car ?
Or there is an other raison ?

Please help me...... Please explain to me.....


Fred
Sorry, missed this post. If you read our product page for the rsd6 in our website you will read the benefits of this chassis vs the tc6 std chassis. Dual bellcranks typically make a car easier to drive as the steering feel is more linear.
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